comanche09

Hey guys, thanks for the pics! Mnkyboy, are the seats adjustable fore and aft? Did you have to "massage" the tunnel? Any chance you can get dimensions on the bar stock? I would buy a set from you (and I'm sure others would too). :cheers:

Well, I got one of the 4x4 leafs in (need new u-bolts, they don't seem to want to go back through the perch). In the process, I noticed that the limiting factor in downward suspension travel IS the SHOCKS then the BRAKE HOSE :fool: .

I think this could be it. Would better shocks help with it? I have the cheapo Monroe base shocks. Glad to hear I'm not the only one. "Quality" of shocks isn't what's important here, it's more question of "travel specifications" and "application". The best shocks in the world won't work if they are put in an application where they only have 1" of upwards travel before full extension, and the cheapest shocks you can find will outperform them if their specifications meet the usage demands. I found the stock XJ specs to work quite well with a regular MJ setup, but as soon as I got about 1-2" inches of lift in the rear from MT springs they completely sucked, because I was operating outside of their intended application range. Post up a part number of the shocks that you're running and any lift in order to help pick out something applicable. The shocks I got are from O'reillys Auto Parts, they are the ones spec'd for the Comanche and are the cheapest Monroe available (all white in color). The counter guy said they are for 4x2 or 4x4. I will dig up the part numbers. Currently no lift on the rear, 2wd sagging springs (7-1/4" from top of axle tube to base of bump stop at the frame, 1" below spec). I've got some 4wd (probably sagging too) spring I am going to install tonight that should net about an inch of sagging lift. :rotfl2:

Thanks for the replies guys :cheers: I was hoping to be able to just weld em up and install in one step, but better to avoid headaches and follow your advice. Speaking of welding... Is it safe to weld on the tube with the diff fluid drained (explosive gas)?

Thanks mnkyboy, I knew it has been done before. They look great in your truck! Your pic of the fab work was kind of blurry. Do you think you could post some more pics? Or even better post the dimensions of the steel stock and locations to mount on the floorboard etc.? I'm guessing that the original dakota brackets were not even close to being able to work? The 1990 ford van seat brackets were off of a conversion van, or OEM ford brackets? Thanks!

:popcorn:

I believe if you go with a HO exhaust manifold, the downpipe is also different vs. renix. You could get around that with any good muffler shops or if you have a welder. Or get a HO downpipe. I thought there was Renix intake manifold clearance issues with the HO exhaust manifold as well... :???:

Can I use the same pinion angle for an XJ with my MJ? Got the Mopar perches coming in the mail for the XJ 8.25 axle. I'm keeping a SUA setup. Can I parallel the mopar mounts with the OEM XJ (same angle)? Or do I need to adjust. I will be installing 3" lift leafs or MT springs from Hellcreek eventually down the road, but just swapping MJ 4x4 springs in place of original 2wd springs for now. Thanks!

Check the condition of your bumper (especially if it is OEM) if you are using it to tow, they like to rust out from the inside.

I thought there was a way to reset it? Unplugging it turns the light out? If that doesn't work, you could just pull the bulb out of the cluster for it.

No, I was wrong, liberty BRAKE CABLES, ZJ Calipers and backing plates EDIT again lol: Liberty brakes are an alternative (I posted the wrong link above): KJ Discs: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=977809&highlight=liberty

The drums on my '88 D35 are definately bigger in diameter (and has cooling fins on the outside of the drum) then the drums on my '98 XJ 8.25 axle donor axle :???: Yes... your D35 has the 10 inch diameter brakes. 8.25s got 9 inch diameter brakes. Typically the 10 inch diameter drums got 1.75" wide pads, 9 inch drums got 2.5" I've only heard of the 10 x 2.5 on the D44. Thank you Geonovast. Interesting, less leverage, but more surface area. Kind of a toss up in stopping power, no?

EDIT: oops

Thank you JeepcoMJ! :cheers: Guess I'll have to deal with the tiny drums until I save up for the Liberty disc conversion.

The drums on my '88 D35 are definately bigger in diameter (and has cooling fins on the outside of the drum) then the drums on my '98 XJ 8.25 axle donor axle :???:

So the 8.25 XJ axle I got has some tiny drums compared to the D35 drums on my MJ. I would like to know if I can swap the D35 drums to the 8.25 axle? Is it possible? Even better, bolt on? I know about the Liberty rear disk swap, but I want to keep the costs to a minimum for right now. Thanks

I'm looking to swap in my 8.25 soon (also has 1" longer snout like the D44), I would like to re-use my original 2wd D35 DS in the meantime, before I install the t-case and AX-15. I want to avoid cutting down the shaft 1" as it will be a temporary setup. By 1.5" out, do you mean as measured from the base of the ears to the trans seal? Do you know the travel distance in of the yoke at full suspension compression? I do plan to swap in 4wd leafs (with longer 4wd bump stops) in place of the original 2wd, I figure that would help a little no?

Mid-89 to 90 AX-15 is the same (I have a 90 sitting in my garage) 91+ you'll need a pilot bearing from a 73-75 CJ5 304 V8 w/3spd, around $4. Crossmember is different, AX-15 has notch where the trans mount goes. You may or may not have clearance issues if you re-use the ba-10 crossmember. Don't forget you'll have to move the crossmember back to the last set of holes, you'll need to tap them (10mm x 1.5 tap)

My engine sounds like its peeing when I shut it down in the garage... I think it is just oil making its way down the galleys to the pan... or am i crazy? :ack: :rotfl2:

Very Nice, I've yet to run into a decent bumper (or OEM one for that matter), much less a hitch. Yesterday, I picked up '89 MJ longbed 4x4 rear springs and shock mounts for $24. Brought a breaker bar, 21 mm and 18mm deep sockets, and PB Blaster and had them out in about an hour. Today I picked up the bump stops off the '89 MJ, a '97 XJ 4.0 valve cover and a 98 Ford Explorer power steering cooler for $9.

On my 88 4.0L the only vac lines I have are MAP to TB, Intake Manifold to FPR, and Intake Manifold to Vac Ball and HVAC. :yes: Did away with the rest. EDIT: And the brake booster of course. No emissions where I live and not my DD. Global warming....HA

I put anti-seize lube on the posts before I put them back on.

Indeed, especially getting the controls arms and track bar back on... I tried spring compressors one time, but that was a scary experience (slip around the spring) and they just wouldn't compress the springs enough to remove without taking something else apart.... Where did you get your spacers? How much? Thanks

1986 Ice Blue Plymouth Reliant Coupe, my first car, bought in 1994 for $2000. I saved $1000 on my own and my dad matched what I saved. Got it home, then realized the whole passenger quarter panel was bondo and the quarter window was plexiglass... :doh: lol I was 16 and knew little about cars. Looked like this, but blue: :rotfl2:

I think this could be it. Would better shocks help with it? I have the cheapo Monroe base shocks. Glad to hear I'm not the only one.