comanche09

Ok, here is what I installed: -'95 XJ External Slave Bellhousing mated to a '90 AX-15 (same size input shaft and pilot bearing as the Ba-10), using a mopar '95 XJ one piece pre-bled plastic master/slave assembly. -New Pilot bearing, New Clutch, New Throwout Bearing I finally got everything buttoned up tonight, but now she won't go into gear when running? The clutch pedal has good resistance (better than pre-swap). It grinds when I try to go to Reverse and it won't go into any forward gear. With the truck off, I can shift through all the gears no problem. :???: I checked the slave pushrod and it is seated in the fork cup. I tried to turn the adjustment? nut on the opposite side of the bellhousing, but it just turned with the bolt... :???: :(

I went with the NP242 t-case for full time 4wd (on pavement) and to have something a little more different. The downside vs. NP231 is less ground clearance at the t-case and less aftermarket support. FWIW, my '98 XJ 242 bolted right up to my '90 AX-15. I just spend most of this past weekend installing it with a buddy. It was pretty tough combined with the 90+F Alabama heat and humidity. None of it is rocket science, just awkward to man-handle the whole assembly in using a floor jack. A transmission jack would have made it much better. Some notes during install (there are a TON of write-ups on this here and at NAXJA): I went with an external slave setup from a '95 AX-15 XJ, you'll need the bellhousing from it. I went with a new pre-bled OEM Clutch/slave assembly. The diameter of the eye for the new clutch pedal linkage is smaller than the stud on the original clutch pedal. I figured this out after I installed the master into the firewall and secured the brake booster... I had to contort under the dash to file out the plastic hole to get it to fit... That was a B*TCH, the driver floor was wet with my sweat. Didn't read anywhere about this problem. Other than that it wasn't too bad. Recommend replacing the pilot bearing and clutch of course since you'll have access anyway. The pilot bearing came out pretty easily with a rented pilot bearing puller from Adv Auto. A couple of the clutch cover bolts gave me trouble so I ended up cutting the old cover to remove it. Clutch actually was pretty worn even with only 100k on my rig, PO could not shift apparently. Good Luck! :cheers:

I have a 3" lift in front using XJ Upcountry front springs (V8 ZJ springs are same thing) and 2" coil spacers sandwiched between two OEM spring isolators. The extra isolator takes up the sag in the springs to net an actual 3" lift and prevents any knocking noises i've heard others complain of when using spring spacers. So far so good, but I definately lost some ride quality when swapping the WJ lower arms out for adjustable lower arms (even with rubber bushings). Going to buy some good riding 3" coils. Anyone suggest a good set?

Installed HiCountry Extreme front tow hook w/ shackle kit. That was a kick in the nuts... Installed 97+ front fenders and header panel.

Make sure they remove the O2 sensor before they try to weld it or you'll be buying a new one. :cheers:

I've got a spare headliner you can have for cheap. But I don't think shipping it would be easy/cost effective... Where are you located?

Thats what i'm running and no complaints about the ride (Monroe blue shock).

:agree: May be a good time to replace the rod and main bearings and oil pump while you have the access.

IMO they would look better with a light application of VHT Nightshades. Don't forget to switch to amber bulbs to keep it somewhat legal.

I'm running an 18 pounder radiator cap on my converted open system, any problems/benefits with this? Thanks

Are you at stock ride height? Planning a lift?

EBAY http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-96-JEEP-CHEROKEE-EURO-CLEAR-TURN-SIGNAL-CORNER-LIGHT-/370373594342?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item563bfc8ce6

Primed 97 XJ front end parts. Cussed at my pathetic air compressor. :fs1:

I still have my 5 year old Garmin C320. It has never freezed up on me, but after 2 years of ownership it no longer held a charge (needs constant DCV) and I have to turn the volume off because it will shut down when it gives verbal prompts out loud for some reason. Cost me about 4 times what a new comparable model today cost, but thats technology for ya...

Awesome! When I'm through building my 4x4 MJ, I want to look into doing what you are doing. Offroad MJ and Street MJ. :clapping: Just keep it clean! No ghettoness (Like a floating and angled license plate in molded into tailgate, curb feelers etc...) :yes:

Hey Robert, Wrestling with controls arms is a PITA. Not sure about your length issue. Here is a Control arm length chart I found on the forums: LIFT LCAs UCAs Lengths Stock 15.75" 15.00" 2" 15.92" 14.88" 3" 16.09" 14.92" 4" 16.33" 15.03" 4.5" 16.47" 15.11" 5" 16.62" 15.21" 6" 16.97" 15.44" 7" 17.36" 15.74" 8" 17.81" 16.09" 9" 18.30" 16.50" 10" 18.82" 16.96" Try disconnecting everything else first (if you have done so already) and attack the controls arms first. I have found that using a big pipe wrench on the axle tube, then lifting on the end of the handle with a floor jack worked for me. Good luck :cheers:

Picked up 97 XJ front clip.

I just got that Mopar Master/Slave assembly in the mail. The box had a nice big wet spot on it... I love CC, glad to know its bleedable. :cheers: Pete, You wouldn't have a speedo gear for 3.55 gears and 31" tires laying around would ya?

I removed mine and have one line now running to the rear of the truck. Be carefull about getting hard on the brakes with no load in the bed. The rears WILL lock up before the front. I tested this to get a feel of the setup. Always keep that in the back of your mind. I will say braking now in combo with the '95 XJ dual diapham booster is phenominal.

I'm running a 97+ XJ valve cover on mine with the Felpro rubber gasket and no RTV. No leaks. Now, RTV on the front corners of the oil pan and around the RMS area is a good idea even with the nice one piece gasket.

Depends on what kind of finish you are looking for. Painting is 90% prep work. The amount of work you do in prep determines how good your finish will be. I painted my MJ with Valspar Truck and Trailer Paint ($26 a gallon) from Tractor Supply Co. I had to rush the job so my prep work was limited (just took care of the surface rust, and orbital sanded with various grits). I ended up using maybe 1/3 of the gallon of the paint and 1/3 gallon of primer. Also added their Hardener to the paint. Used my 8 gallon air compressor and a Harbor Freight Auto Paint Gun kit and did it in my garage. Pic of my truck in my sig and there are more pics in the Pub under the "What did you do to your MJ today" thread. It aint a mirror finish but it is a 1000x better then when I got the truck, just wish I had before pics.

:eek: Got any pics of this setup? Thats a big trailer!

Reviving and old one here... :cheers: Hi Drahcir495, I am getting ready to do the AX-15 swap and have the same problem you had. I have a '90 AX-15 with no case vent and a '95 shifter with no vent in the base. Did you run into any problems with the lack of a vent??? I was wondering if I should tap a hole into the shifter base? Thanks

I'm running XJ Upcountry Springs in the front under two (2) spring isolators and get 19", 3" Motion Offroad standard load lift leaves out back for a measurement of 22". The lift leaves are only netting me 1.5" off lift :hmm: I do have a cap on the back though... Anyone have objections to throwing a 2" spacer sandwiched between the two isolators up front? what else are you doing to accommodate the extra 2"? control arms? shocks? track bar? brake lines? Hi Pete! I've got a rough country adjustable track bar (the $99 one with OEM type ball joint), YJ monroe shocks ready to put in (just have to press in the bar pins) and YJ brake lines are installed. I've ordered Adj lower controls arms from Arc Fabrications with rubber bushings installed in place of the poly ones ($155 shipped). Contemplating ordering their adj upper arms with rubber bushings ($135 shipped). May have some ready to go WJ upper and lower arms for sale. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330418057061&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Not building a rock crawler (no rocks in S. Alabama!). Just a woods/ rough trail truck, and I prefer to avoid mud hehe. Heard anything about Arc Fabrications? Their customer service seems second to none in my experience. EDIT: I really like the ride of the Upcountry springs and thats why I want to keep them, (plus its cheaper!) I've heard of problems with spacers slipping and springs binding. Would I be ok with a 2" spacer sandwiched between to isolators?

I'm running XJ Upcountry Springs in the front under two (2) spring isolators and get 19", 3" Motion Offroad standard load lift leaves out back for a measurement of 22". The lift leaves are only netting me 1.5" off lift :hmm: I do have a cap on the back though... Anyone have objections to throwing a 2" spacer sandwiched between the two isolators up front?