comanche09

1. Ba-10 2wd to Ax-15/NP242 2. '95 XJ Brake Booster 3. 3.07 to 3.55 gears w/factory rear LSD that still works

Still in the glove with the original dealer/warranty information and salesman business card!

Looks good. :thumbsup: I added their UV Topcoat (off of ebay) to mine as I've read they fade over the years.

Hi Jim, Thanks for the writeup and tips! :cheers: The truck hasn't run for about 2 years, It was definately hydrolocked as the oil looks like milkshake. It was submerged up to the middle of the doors in Alabama muddy river water. There is a definate waterline mark as everything below it is coated with a very thin layer of muddy silt. Looks like about up to the top of the ashtray on the dash (to include most of the wiring, computer and fusebox). I will try to post some more pics of it. Seems to be that bottom line I will most likely need to locate a whole running parts XJ to bring this MJ back... :doh:

Wow so far 4 to 0 for rebuilding. :cheers: It's a shame that other than the drivetrain, this MJ is in good shape. Its gonna need new axles and complete drivetrain- easily sourced from an XJ I know. I'm concerned about the flooding as the "waterline" came halfway up the dash, covering the fuse box and half of the computer... Electricals shot? Anyone with experience fixing a flooded MJ?

Need some opinions on my "new" MJ: http://mobile.craigslist.org/pts/1797932148.html Saw this on CL and jumped on it, picked it up couple weeks ago for $300: It's actually an '89. The Bad: -It does not have a transmission or tcase,the engine is all there, but has been hydrolocked. (It was flooded halfway up its doors in a river...) -The D35 is seized (pinion yoke bent) and the D30 is missing its CAD cover. -The Rockers on both sides have small rust holes. -The interior is trashed. -No title (PO says he's expecting it in a couple months...right) The Good: -The frame and rest of the body is straight and rust free. -It has at least a 4" lift and SOA (Pro Comp lift kit, but I've read alot of bad reviews about these) -The taillights and tailgate are in good shape. -The bed is in decent shape. -Nice Aluminum wheels Save or Pilfer and scrap? Opinions please!

1988 JEEP COMANCHE Image, if available 4.0L / BA-10/5 / BEAM / DANA 35 / SHORT BED Build date: LOST Current Location: MOBILE, ALABAMA Status: RUNNING PROJECT Notes: CUSTOM PAINT, 4X4 CONVERSION WITH '97 D30, '90 AX-15, '98 NP242, '98 8.25 W/TRACLOC, '97 FRONT END AND DOOR SWAP, 3" LIFT, 31" TIRES Current owner: ME

I actually bought a 1988 MJ magazine ad off of ebay a few months ago. Title is "Exersize Your Options." I will try to get it scanned and sent or posted here. :thumbsup:

Wow! I'm not sure I would take that back for THEM to repair... I would have them give you a refund or some kind of compensation... Out of curiosity, how much was the bill for the replacement?

Hey All, Thank you for kind words! :cheers: I've really enjoyed reading and looking and looking and reading again :dunce: about all the other builds/experiences on here. It has made my buildup/resto relatively painless; alot of work, but worth it. :USAflag: If you use the door panel with power windows, the switch part will interfere with the glove box door. I used manual window panels and have no clearance issues. :thumbsup:

Dunno if this will help you, but I had the exact same symtoms with my AX-15 swap but I am using and external slave setup. Basically, the throwout bearing was only making partial contact with the pressure plate fingers because I did not install the proper transmission front bearing retainer (with snout). With your internal slave? setup its possible the slave assembly is not seated/getting moved on the "pin" on the front trans when you go to bolt it up?

I replaced my original lines a couple weeks ago and had the same problem as you. Had to break out the dremel cutting disk...

Its possible that your ECU is bad. It may be continously firing an injector or two. Check the injector connectors with a noid light. If the light stays on and does not pulse, theres one of your problems. Good luck.

What is involved with swapping in a Front D44? There is an '88 Grand Waggy at my upull :( ... The dang thing is complete and in not bad shape.

I have a 3" lift and run these longer shocks (did a lot of research) Front Shocks: OEM front for a '95 YJ (you'll have to move your pins from the lower end and swap them to these) Rear Shocks: OEM rear for a '93 Toyota T100 4x4

Hey Don, Pick up bushings for a WJ. It is an upgrade in that the metal bolt sleeves are smooth and near the same diameter as the bolts as opposed to the originals having the "dimples" the bolts rides on. I think they cost the same as the originals too. FWIW, when I was at Goodyear getting an allignment, I asked about replacing them. They didn't want to touch it with a ten foot pole. (Said they didn't have the proper press) Check out this link: http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/Featured+Content/XJ-Control-Arm-Bushing-Replacement/ArticleStandard/Article/detail/360764

Hmm, there is an 88 Grand Waggy in my local U-pull. I saw the front leaf sprung D44 in it. It was a 360 V8. Didn't check out the rear leafs. Wonder if they were 3 full length leafs like the pic above? I would like to go SOA for better ground clearance, but don't want 5"+ of lift. Added capacity would be a plus. 4" would be perfect. Hellcreek, would your MJ MT springs give me 4" of lift on my shortbed SUA?

Renix era AX-15 ('89 1/2 - '90) will be pretty much a direct swap. You can reuse your slave and hydraulics and driveshafts. Pilot bearing is the same size. You will need the AX-15 mount and it helps to grab the x-member from it too to avoid clearance issues. I had no problems with the shifter clearing the tunnel opening. You'll have to move the crossmember back, no problem as the holes are already there, just tap em (M10 x 1.5 tap) 91+ AX-15 you'll need the pilot bushing from a mid 70s CJ with 304 V8 and IIRC the pilot bearing for whatever year AX-15 you have.

My father-in-law has a 2000 WJ Laredo 4.0 with Selectrac. You could always pick up a laredo and replace the cladding and front and rear bumpers with the painted ones. Fancy wheels should be easy to come by. That could end up saving her money if she gets a good deal on it.

Actually, I meant to say "42RLE". It is the 4spd auto behind the 3.7L in the Liberty. Derived from a fwd chrysler trans. I've had my torque converter replaced under warranty and the trans still slams into gear on occasion. I'm never easy on it though (company truck). The trans behind most 4.7L was a 45RFE (4speed) or 545RFE (5speed) auto. <- very stout transmission. Not sure what was behind the 4.0 I6 in the WJ?

I think the 4.7L V8 is a very good engine. I have one in my '07 Aspen and its pushing 81k heavy towing miles with not one hiccup. My neignbor has an '02 Ram with 4.7 V8 with over 180k miles. I helped him change his spark plugs for the first time last year, so I know it was not maintained like most of us here would maintain a vehicle. It is a very smooth V8. Eagle bought his WJ the first year the engine was available... The early ones had PCV and other issues. The hemi has its problems too google it. I also have a 3.7L Liberty (4.7L less two cylinders) with 82k miles on it and it has caused me zero trouble. I'm more worried about 42RFE trans in it... The 4.7L was Chryslers first truly new V8 in decades, but it was designed as a truck engine from the get go. Check out this link: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/47.html I would love to see one of thes motors in a Comanche. I'm pretty sure you'd be the first. :bowdown:

-Replaced original and rusty power steering hoses and plumbed in a power steering cooler from a '95 Explorer. -Vacuumed interior after a muddy weekend :brows:

I feel your pain. My MJ is an 88 4.0 5spd like yours and I had the random rare stall only when coming to a stop and pushing in the clutch, just like you describe. My truck idled at 500 RPM even on cold start. I tried cleaning the IAC with no change (it was filthy but not stuck). I have no vacuum leaks (would idle higher if there were I would think). Finally, I carefully cleaned the whole TB with TB cleaner. I put plastic bags with rubber bands around the TPS and avoided getting any cleaner on it. This seemed to help as it hasn't happened since. The truck seems to idle at 550-600 rpm now. I did the 97+ XJ valve cover at the same time, so not sure if that had some to do with it. HTH :cheers:

Anyone file down the ridge on the MJ rear flares to match the 97+ XJ front? It doesn't bother me too much that mine don't match. I'd kinda feel bad about modding these flares as they are MJ only and getting harder to find.

I have a set of these "simulated beadlock" wheels and the finish is not great. These worth keeping? I was thinking of giving them away to a local jeeper.