comanche09

+1 Yeah and that VW is weight biased to the rear (rear engine?) so that makes things even worse. Would be a little better if you could use a tow dolly. Best if you could use a tandem axle car carrier, but then you'd need a bigger towing vehicle... Or at least trailer brakes and a good brake controller. Then plan on a clutch replacement. Can anyone who's towed over 3000+ with a 5spd for any long distance chime in?

I just switched to Mobil 1 10w-40 High Mileage (available at wal-mart) at 104k miles on a 21 year old 4.0. I ran Shell Rotella-T for 1k miles before for ZDDP. My motor was pretty sludged up due to PO. Noticed no difference except that my RMS drips oil alittle more now. BTW Mobil 1 Syn is the only easily available TRUE synthetic, all the others Castrol(except 0w-20 German sourced), Quaker state, no name brand, etc. "synthetics" are actually highly refined dino juice... Amsoil, Royal Purple and Red line are TRUE Syn, but not as easily available. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

Actually, the 4.3L is a 5.7L with 2 less cylinders. But agree the 305 was largely a POS engine in stock form. Why not a FORD 4.0L V6? Although, back in the day, the Chevy 4.3L V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 couldn't hold a candle to the AMC 4.0L I6 FWIW.

Yeah, but they went back to open bottle per my 08 KK... :clapping: Wish they would make up their minds... :shake:

If its been sitting more than a year, Definately drain out / clean the gas tank and flush the fuel lines (jumper the fuel pump with the fuel line at the tb disconnect and into a catch can) Been down that road before with bad gas... Once running, change the oil as its been diluted with gas with all the attempted starting and offers little lubrication. Good Luck

No worries, I think we got it worked out :cheers:

Ya know Fram has been bad mouthed for years on the web (and rightfully so) you would think they would get their act together. Guess there are ALOT more non-enthusiasts out that that don't know any better. Where would one find a good accurate oil pressure sender and where would you put it? Is there a way to get the oil sender to read on the OEM gauge? Thanks

Hey Robert, Sent you a Private Message and called ya. You still interested? Thanks

You have PM :thumbsup:

Thanks guys. It is a complete axle e-brake cables, brake lines, drums etc and NO RUST. Pulled it out of a '97 2wd that had street tires on it. Gears checked good, no abnormal wear patterns. I paid $90 for it but had to pull it myself in 90+ degree temps, then haul it in a wheelbarrow 1/4 mile to the check out counter (huge u-pull yard). Just trying to help a fellow MJ'er. :cheers:

Hey Jacked88, I'm going to Houston (north side) tomorrow for work and I have a '97 8.25" 29 spline 3.55 geared XJ axle in my garage. You can have it for $100... let me know. If you can locate one, a '97+ XJ automatic w/o ABS with the UpCountry package will have an 8.25" 3.55 geared w/ Trak-lok factory installed LSD. I found one of these rare birds in the JY so I have no need for the '97 any more. Also, located a '87 XJ D44 in the yard with 3.55 gears but no LSD.

Got the XJ UpCountry front springs installed this morning... I think I can remove and install the entire front end with my eyes closed now :yes: Got about 1.5" of lift! Went from 2wd springs, to 97 XJ 4x4 springs to 98 XJ UpCountry, so I'm about 2.5" over stock for CHEAP

Scored a '98 XJ Limited Upcountry NP242 T-case, front springs (good for 1" lift) and t-case skid for $150

Could be leaky/stuck Fuel Injector(s) causing the rich condition.

I picked up one today too from Oreilly's, got an LED one that doubles as a fold down step (not like I need one, but wanted the LED for visibility) :cheers:

Thought I'd revive this old thread as I just got done trying to install the WJ upper arms. I had to trim (dremel cut) a small 1/2" x 1.5" of sheet metal under the body bucket mount on the inboard side in order allow the arm to articulate down. Due to the arms' downward curve, the bottom of the arm was contacting. At nearly full down travel, the bottom or the arm then contacts the bottom of the body mount bucket itself, but only a small amount (maybe 1/4" off the lip) would need to be shaved in order for it to fit. I too thought the dimensions eye-to-eye were the same... At least to the eyeball test, they looked the same. So after going nuts trying to get the mounting bolts to fit :fs1: I pulled the arm out measured, and found that the WJ dimension is actually about 1/4" shorter... Unless there is a reason to run slightly short upper arms (is there? or would it be a bad thing? (w/o lift of course)) This is a no go. :doh: :wall:

Repainted my stock rear bumper and installed uhaul trailer hitch.

Scored an old school font, full gauge cluster. I pulled it from a 1987 XJ 4.0L... Plug and play :cheers: It would seem that only MY 1987 had the right wiring with old school font. :cheers: If any one is in the Mobile, AL area and needs a D44, the 1987 XJ w/ 109k miles on it at Barry-U-Pull-It has one, it has the tow package and 242 so probably 3.73 gears, front axle is gone though... If I didn't already have my 97 8.25 i'd be all over it. $90 out the door at Barrys for it.

Thanks again Pete :chillin: To recap for anyone else searching, when going AX-15 to 242, shaft lengths do not change, transfer linkage requires adjustment, 91+ 23 spline 242 required, and any year AX-15 (all are 23 spline output) trans :cheers:

Awesome! Do you recall what year 242 and AX-15? Thanks Pete :bowdown:

Thank you, that takes care of driveshaft lengths What about manual trans AX-15 to 242?

Installed WJ lower control arms today. Picked up '98 ZJ V8 steering tire rods and linkages from JY, beefy :brows: :drool: at the sweet black leather seats in the ZJ, but I need my bench seat. Can we use the steering stabilizer from the ZJ? Noticed its a little different setup it bolts to the tie rod arm.

Your bro had a 242 in a Comanche? I didn't know they were available from the factory like that. Cool Regarding shafts, I know I have to get the rear shaft cut down going from 2wd to 4wd. I probably should have said I currently have the D35 under the truck. Here's what i've got: No lift, Ba-10/5, D35 2wd Want to go: 3" lift, AX-15, NP 242, 8.25 IIRC its -1" when going from D35 to 8.25" 2wd or 4wd aside. I don't have the lift yet, but 3" and 30" or 31" tire is probably max I want to go. The '97 axles I've got have 3.55 gears. So for the front shaft, I should be good with the one from the AX-15 donor? Thats good to know! I read the biggest PITA with the swap is messing with the linkage. Anyone have input on the model year 242 / AX-15 I need with the correct input/output for the AX-15? :???:

Hi all, Anyone have this setup? Collecting up parts for my 4x4 swap :yes: Just scored an external slave bellhousing from a 2wd AX-15 :banana: I want use the 242 transfer case with the AX-15 tranny. I've found from searching that I want a 91+ 23 spline unit. Also, from searching, all 95+ units apparently have different input/output shaft lengths etc. Does this mean that I should grab an AX-15 and 242 from the same years? Also, what front driveshaft would I need? What length rear driveshaft for a short bed with 3" lift? EDIT: I will be using a 8.25 for the rear end. Thanks!

:wall: :fs1: Just got an email... No Longer Available from Hitches to Go... Just ordered mine through Uhaul.com which now states "Limited Availability"... :(