comanche09

Thanks, makes it basically the same dimension 8.25 vs D35. So D44 to 8.25 would not require driveshaft length change. Please let us know about the DS length whenever you return to the MJ's Thanks :cheers:

LOL, ok... the rears too and its because of the rotor size with respect to the caliper not clearing... :dunno:

Sorry to hear about your luck :( Not sure if that would work with 4cyl? You would have to find one with a 21 spline input shaft to match the Ba-10/5 output. Pretty much any 231 or 242 (if you want full-time 4x4 option) from '90 and below automatic or manual (so long as its from a Ba10/5 of course) 4.0L. Sounds like a good time to get rid of the pukegoat tranny and find an AX-15. FWIW a 1998 XJ NP242 bolted right up to my 1990 AX-15 5speed.

I know they are single piston because my KK's are and they require 16" rims to clear the rear disk brakes.

Check here: http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/f41/engine-swap-bellhousings-4740/

Me too! :brows: I also currently have the D35. Got a D44 sitting in the garage, but it is an open diff. I can get a '98 8.25 with Trak-Loc LSD. I know that the 8.25 would be -1" vs D35. What about D44? Help!

Not KJ (they are single piston), you want WJ Calipers (twin piston) with the Akibono calipers (not Teeves). You would have to swap to WJ knuckles to run them and use WJ lower ball joints with MJ/XJ uppers. More info here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1004721 95-96 XJ Dual diaphram booster/master is the most painless swap, but you can use ZJ or WJ boosters with more mods. With the upgrades/tips mentioned above you should be ok. Just drive smart.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4917 Hope that helps!

Anyone remember which way to turn to adjust the wheel left or right? Thanks

You are correct Eagle more is not always better. I was wrong by stating "more is always better". I was thinking as opposed having more weight in the REAR which almost always has CATASTROPHIC consequences Eagle. And the previous posters experience had led me to believe that that is how they were loaded... Again, good read in the link I posted above... To the OP, lets us know how it went!

Great read here: http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm#refrn10]

Well, I was under the assumption that that consideration was already in mind... Of course do not exceed max tongue rating. :nuts: By "more weight on the front" I meant that weight on the trailer should be biased to the front (the trailer axle(s) being the pivot point). If you have been unfortunate enough to tow with more weight in the rear, you will understand quickly what I mean, luckily I know better.

Sweet Got any tips on how to remove the spring perches and shock mounts? I'm afraid of cutting into the axle tube. I see and angle grinder in the pic. Thanks!

Yeah, he's right... per uhaul.com. They will not rent it out unless the tow vehicle weighs over 3500lbs... That said, I've seen guys at the counter, ahem, alter the tow vehicle in the computer to get you going. Bigger trucks often tow double their weight or more. They also will not rent to ANY trailer to ANY YEAR Ford Explorer, because of the Firestone debaucle years ago, even though the current Explorer isn't even remotely the same vehicle as the one involved back then and is more than capable of towing any uhaul trailer. You CAN tow them with a Mercury Mountaineer (Explorer clone)of ANY year however... Lawyers :shake:

Wow those are some scary stories! :eek: Thanks for the replies. FWIW I tow a 5x10 single axle utility trailer (weighs 1300lbs and no trailer brakes) with about 1000 lbs loaded on it for a total of about 2300 lbs with my MJ (it has 4.0L 5spd pukegoat with 3.07 gears and 235/70/15 tires). Nothing in the bed. Towed it just fine. Never went past 4th gear though. Stopped just fine too. Though I have new front disks and pads on the 97 D30 and the 95 XJ dual diaphram booster, I know that definately makes a difference. I would definately be hesitant with the old POS original single diaphram booster. Did you all make sure to load the trailer heavier in the front? Should be 60/40 biased, though more in the front is always better. Just for comparison sake, I towed a uhaul double axle car carrier (2000lbs) with an small car on it (2300 lbs) with my KK (max 5000lb tow like the auto 4.0L MJ)). The Liberty was riding on the bump stops on the rear and has a short 106in? wheelbase, but 3.73 gears w 235/70/16 tires). Towed it like a champ up to 70 on the highway. Stopped fine too, but the Uhaul trailer had surge brakes so no surprise there. Properly set up (meaning gears/tires, updated brake system, metric tonne springs,etc) I have little doubt a 4.0 MJ could tow what my KK did.

I got 67k miles on my company 08 Jeep Green KK. Gotta say it has taken quite a bit of abuse in stride (drive it like I stole it every day). Still runs like it did with 6 miles on it. It pays quite a bit of homage to the XJ. Its still unibody, albeit much stronger/stiffer, its got an 8.25 rear end / Dana 30 in front and is available with Command and Select-trac. It's how they should have redesigned the XJ, except they should have kept the 4.0L and solid front axle of course. Although, I've read its not too difficult to get rid of the IFS.

I had a similar rattle when I first got my rig. Turned out to be the catalytic converter. The insides broke apart causing the marbles in a coffee can type of rattle.

http://www.allpar.com/corporate/chrysler-group/five-year-plan.html

I have the same truck as you and had the gauge/no tach cluster too... If you want to retain your "old school" blue gauge font (much prefer), try to locate a full gauge/tach cluster from an 87 XJ. 1987 4.0L was the only year where the old school fonts are plug and play with 88-90 Renix 4.0 rigs. 86 and below cluster does not work. The newer Japanese font looks out of place in our trucks IMO. I got mine from an '87 Wagoneer 4.0L. Good luck!

They're really predicting big things from the Ford Transit, looks like Chrysler believes the hype if they're already trying to counter it. Doesn't bother me, but I'd hate to see them slap a Jeep badge on that. :ack: Not the commercial vans, but in that linked article above it says this (nothing to do with title):

http://www.insideline.com/dodge/ram-pickup-1500/ram-brand-will-add-fiat-commercial-vans.html :shake: ... well guess I jinxed it... :wall:

I don't consider a Ridgeline a real truck. No offense if you own one. It's a minivan based transverse engined poser IMO. It's also fugly IMO(along with the new Pilot, which at side and back profile looks like a ripoff of my KK, the front end/grille is atrocious). Slap a Honda badge on anything and people will buy it :cheers: With this new truck supposedly 2 years away, there's got to be some prototype pics out there?

Sorry if this has been posted before, but I found it very interesting! Aside from the Viper being discontinued after 2010... http://autos.aol.com/article/chrysler-business-plan-2009 Anyone have any info? Sure hope it doesn't turn out like the Honda Ridgeline :shake:

IIRC if you can score 95+ XJ doors, they will also have "side impact reinforcement beams" in them, for that extra warm and fuzzy.

I feel your pain... I bought a new housing installed the thin gasket, but only RTV'd one side. Leaked... Removed housing, new gasket, RTV both sides, NO LEAK....