comanche09

Wow... I think there are a total of 4 badly beaten MJ's in the Mobile yards (and all 4 bangers strangely... or maybe not). Thanks for the tip! Time to plan a road trip

Thanks for the compliment! The color is Tractor Supply Co. Silver (Truck and Trailer Enamel) :brows: You have a very nice MJ yourself...Stroker :drool: There is a new Pull-a-Part down here full of XJ's and they even have a couple MJ's (4-bangers though) FYI if you need parts

I asked for a delete because the link Wildman posted answered the question, but I fixed it now that Dr. Hornbrod has replied. That Nissan frontier brake light seems like the best idea (don't need to cut a huge hole) wonder how that went?

:doh: Don't know why my search didn't pull that thread? Thanks for the link!

Thank you. Yes, I had a pro install it. Auto glass is not a DIY job IMO... I did pull out the OEM rubber gasket (I just pryed a corner and pulled) to prep and repaint the truck. Its just an exterior trim piece and has nothing to do with sealing the frame (urethane does that) The original gasket came out intact and when I showed it to the installer, he said it was reusable. Of course he didn't end up needing it. Funny thing is, the OEM glass and frame literally fell apart when he removed it... He said thats the first time that's happened to him. It was in baaaad shape. Gotcha, thanks good to know...

Wow, I got 1 of 6 left? Or is thats whats left in your area? One thing of note. The CRL glass I got did not contour to the cab well. Its basically flat, where the back of the cab has a slight contour. There is a small gap at the top and bottom which the installer filled well with urethane. It does not leak. Later I found in the packaging, 4 screws that were supposed to be drilled through the sheetmetal and into the inner frame of the glass to secure it. But I don't think that would have made the frame flush to the cab as I think glass doesn't bend too well.

Anyone do this? Thinking about doing this to increase visibility as I worry about getting rear-ended due to: -Teenagers/people texting/talking while driving :shake: -Faded taillights (reducing light output) -need to do that resto in the DIY section -A rear ender would ruin my hard/impossible to replace OEM bumper/bed/tailgate etc. :( I picked up a combo 3rd brake light/ cargo light from a Ford F250 at the u-pull, not sure if it would fit the contour of the cab well though... Any ideas? Thanks

They DO exist. There is one at my local u-pull yard. It was in an '84 2DR XJ (Limited?) 2.8L. Blue full gauge tach cluster... I discovered it after it did the cluster swap. I retained my original blue speedo/odo and the rest is red/different font from the donor... Not sure if it will work??? hmm... EDIT: Wrong year... 1984 XJ not 86 Is the wiring compatible anyone???

'08 KK (Liberty) is my DD/Company vehicle. Pushing 58k miles. Other than a water leak from the back glass, she's been rock solid. (I beat on her good too :yes: )

'95 Dual Diaphram Booster and Master Cylinder installed today. HOLY CR*P, this thing has BRAKES now!!! :eek:

I just had a CR Laurence back glass installed... I too wanted a 3 piece, but what was shipped to the glass place was 4 piece. Guess they are NLA. AFAIK, the factory rubber gasket is NLA. I tried to order one, but ended up not needing it as the CR Laurence glass doesn't require it (metal exterior frame)

First off, thanks for the info above! Just got finished installing a '95 master/booster combo into my '88... Although I dremeled the rod end of the '95 to match the '88 perfectly, my original brake switch still would not work... So I pulled the whole pedal bracket assembly from the '95 Automatic tranny equipped donor, so that I could use the 91+ brake switch (much better stationary switch design and includes switch bracket) I case anyone else runs into this problem, and doesn't want/can fab a bracket to hold the new switch, I'm happy to report that the '95 bracket swapped over perfectly to my manual tranny equipped '88. You have to remove the pedals from your old bracket, install into donor bracket and drill one small hole into donor bracket to install clutch pedal return spring. reinstall and good to go... FWIW, I needed to use the aluminum spacer from the donor to get the correct pedal height. I had to use a zip tie to hold the switch in place as I stripped its plastic threads removing it from the auto tranny hole in the bracket... New switch is on order

Pulled off the valve cover today to address my blowback issue... first time its been pulled in 21 years apparently (PO bragged about using Slick 50 since 1989.... :ack: ) Holy SLUDGE batman :eek: though I figured as much just from looking in through the oil cap. After spending about 2 hours with the shop vac mini tools I got the valvetrain somewhat cleaned up :wall: Really gave my shopvac a workout. Looked at the original valve cover, laughed and tossed it in the garbage. Nice clean '94 HO valve cover, new Felpro Permadryplus gasket ($40 but worth every penny) and new air filter installed :cheers: Hopefully my blowback problem will be solved (clogged back line)... Man these motors can take some abuse

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18297

Last night, -Finished up Herculining the bed. -Took care of some wheelwell and under cab surface rust -Repainted and installed JY driver fender flare (old one was cracked) -Installed JY front inner fender splash shields -Cleaned up and flat black sprayed front "Uniframe"

U-haul carries the same hitch (at least the same part no. and looks identical) for just over $200 shipped. Thats the best I've found... Anyone find a Class 3 for cheaper? No luck on Ebay

Good to know! So the old speedo housing should bolt to any newer NP231? My speedo cable looks to have alot of slack, so it may reach further back to the tcase. I will post the info if it works. :cheers:

I'm going to be doing this swap along with converting to 4x4 at the same time... Does anyone know if I pick up a 91+ transfer case with the VSS output, will my Renix era speedo cable bolt into place there? Do I need a longer cable? Thanks for any help

The radiator is about $60 shipped, and I got the coolant bottle for $5 from the JY, radiator cap and tstat for about $15 and upper and lower rad hoses for about $20. Pretty cheap all things considered. Just trying to help

Open Cooling Swap FTW... Piece of mind, and using the radiator in my prevous post, painless. :dunno:

Another MJ Rescued! :thumbsup: Picked here up this 4th of July :USAflag: I wish I had my digicam when I bought her to do a before and after. The paint was the original and was in very sad shape with surface rust in many places, especialy the roof. Bought her from the original owner w/ 100,383 miles. Wife and kids nicknamed her "Mater" from the Cars movie. So I took her down to bare metal, primed and repainted with Tractor Supply Co. Truck and Trailer Paint. Got the chrome parts from the JY. So far I've done: -Cluster swap (for tach) -Open Cooling system upgrade -New Headliner -New back glass -V8 ZJ Front Sway bar Going to eventually swap in and AX-15 and 4WD. Then maybe a 3" lift :chillin:

Damn, sorry to hear about that... :( My closed cooling system looked alot worse that your, glad I converted to Open system. I also got rid of all of the Heater valve crap and ran 5/8 hose direct to the water outlet and heater core. I was a little worried about relocating the Renix fan temp sensor, but as luck would have it, the newer style open radiator I bought off of ebay already had a spot for it! Bought if from here for just over $60 shipped brand new. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-CHEROKEE-91-92-93-94-95-96-97-98-4-0-L6-RADIATOR_W0QQitemZ330349002543QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4cea55bf2f&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 Though made in China, the quality is superior to the original OEM (which lasted 21 years btw) AND the temp sensor bung was made of brass, were as the OEM was plastic... EDIT: The picture of the item even shows the plug for the Renix temp sensor :banana: Made the swap super easy :thumbsup:

I use Eagle One "Neverdull". You can find it at walmart, it comes in a silver can. Just be careful not to get it on your paint or use it on clearcoated aluminum.

It's 3" long and 1-1/4" Diameter... Could it be part of the shifter assembly? :???:

Looks about the same on the drivers side. I did notice a BIG source of water under here is the A/C evaporator case. I was driving around all day with the A/C on (rainy day) and the case was sweating bad. Carpet damp directly below it. Drive side had a body plug missing??? looks like never installed from the factory? Can see the ground. Hmm... was mine build on a Monday or Friday??? :chillin: