mnkyboy

I started with 3" springs and 2" spacers with SOA. I ran it like that for a while then swapped the springs and spacers for 6.5" coils.

Here is a pic of the skid plate and the mount

Most of the guys with rigs that can make use of a doubler are more then capable of building a simple crossmember.

It just can't handle the stress that's going on inside of it. Have you even got lockers and gears yet?

From what i understand usually the aluminum case explodes. You figure the torque of the engine is multiplied by your transmission then again in the t case, a 231 is only rated for 1885lbs max torque which should be way less then what's gonna be coming out of the first case in low range.

Too many people have done the 97up swap, its losing its coolness. Now if you really want to be different you can keep the stock front end.

It might look the same to you on the pass side but its not, the pass side has to be pulled in some if the drivers side is pushed out as they are connected to each other by the axle. Look at the pic I posted and imagine what happens to the entire axle as it moves up and down. The trac bar causes it to move side to side as it cycles up and down, when it goes up it pulls the axle to the drivers side which is why the drivers side tire sticks out more then the pass side. When the suspension cycles down the trac bar will push the axle towards the pass side and the pass side may stick out. Your goal is to center the axle at ride height but it will always move side to side as it cycles.

It would be cool but I would have to bob it to fit my truck.

The trac bar controls side to side, the control arms control front to back.

Some people drill a new hole for the trac bar mount on the axle and move the trac bar over centering the axle but as stated the best way is to get the proper trac bar or an adjustible track bar.

Dual 231s is a bad idea. The output torque from the first case is way more then the second case can handle, you can double them but the second case won't live very long.

That's pretty much it.

I will see if I can get some pics of mine. It doesn't interfere with any mounts but it does bolt down in same spot as the vibration dampener on the passenger side. You just put the skid plate on then the dampener mount goes over it.

My Keeshond loves riding in the MJ, but some how I don't have any pics of him in it.

That's what my brother went with in his wrangler. Its nice how small it is, you can also buy extra power boxes for it and use it in multiple rigs.

The seats are from a 97 Dodge Dakota and yes the console does fold into a seat. The seats are very comfortable and have adjustable lumbar support, they are pretty close in height to the stock buckets but maybe just a little taller. There isn't a write up because my truck came to me with some old GM seats attached to wood blocks screwed into the floor so I started with nothing and had to fabricate everything. I think it would be much easier if someone had some brackets to start with.

No, its all the way forward in the pic.

I looked at doing the spot welds on my XJ. It looks like it would be one heck of a project trying to separate the piller from the body. Seems you would be much better off splicing it in.

Looks like in good condition people are asking about $3000 for them with the JDM H22 swap. The ones I could find needing work were around $2000

I supercharged an H22a4, its a pretty good engine and pretty peppy. There was several variations of the engine and it was available here in the prelude and the accord, Not sure how much of a swap it was though, the 92 si would have came with an H23 which was basically the same engine with a different stroke. I've never done it but I would think that its mostly bolt in.

Nothing oem will be the right length your best bet would be craigslist. Honestly I went about a year on stock arms and 5" of lift, its far from the ideal set up but it worked.

You could also do a sway bar relocation like this. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-Shocks/Sway-Bar-Relocation-Brackets-XJ-Pair.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=4307&t_pn=R%2FERE9921 This will drop the sway bar so stock links will work and move it away from the springs.

I have quick disconnect sway bar links on mine so I can disconnect the sway bar when I go offroad. A lot of people remove the entire sway bar and drive without one on the street but its not very safe,it might drive ok but in an emergency maneuver you might wind up on your roof.