mnkyboy

Usually you contact Yukon and see what they have in the scratch and dent pile, I've seen people get great deals on lockers that way too.

Your probably going to have a hard time selling a CAD D30, alot of people just give them away around here. It may be of more value to keep the shafts out of it as spares.

Not really, with either one your going to want to eventually do a shaft up grade though.

I'm in Kalama, wa. Just north of Vancouver.

For anyone wondering what really happens to a Yukon set thats not suitable to be sold as a Yukon. they get put in a plain white box and sold as used or blemished and discounted.

I typically go USA std on my personal rigs but we will install whatever flavor the customer wants.

Its too bad I got rid of my last set of 4.10s, I'm not too far from you.

I would go with the 4.10s

X2. I'm going to be disappointed if it is.

X2 Robert is a nice guy and can get you good deals on gears.

US made USA std D44 gears, and some Korean Yukon 8.25 gears.

Genuine Yukon vs. Cheap gears, both D30. You will notice a circled K symbol, most Korean sets have it.

Ive read that too, not sure I buy it. Gears for alot of axles are outsourced and most of our Jeep axles are one of those, most major gear companies gears come out of the same factory in Korea and are pretty much identical. They look the same, setup the same, run quiet,even have identical numbers and symbols stamped in them, and in the case of Yukon/USA std have word for word identical warranties.

I ran 4.88s with 33s and it was pretty good. Here is a gear calculator, you can punch in your stock stuff and play with different gear and tire combos side by side. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

As long as you gear it for the 32s you will be fine.

That interesting. I tried on an 86 and my 89 and there wasn't quite enough room to get them out, I haven't tried it on my spare 95 2.5l.

You would need to strip the newer engine to a long block then put everything off your engine onto the new one. Usually the head needs to come off to change the lifters,it looks like they would come out but the holes in the casting are a little too small for the lifters to pass through.

here's my brothers MJ. 4.0l,5spd, D44/14b,5.13s and both locked,6" lift, Clayton 3link front/soa rear, and 37s.

Between moving and being swamped with work the MJ project has been neglected. I need to get it up on my lift so I can button up some stuff underneath then it should be ready to fire, just need to find some time. I plan to have it at the NAXJA NWfest in June so I need to get working on it.

I guess I get the bonus points. here's my 2.5l MJ,all the specs are in my signature.

The braces are also there to be used as sliders to help keep you from getting hung up on the drop bracket.

Here's my old home brew brackets and braces.

The bracket itself should be one piece and the brace is seperate. On the RC and RE the main bracket is two pieces then the brace is seperate.

Bolted right on.

I built my brackets and ran them for a year or so before I got around to building braces. I have another MJ sitting at the shop with the RC brackets without the braces.