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mnkyboy

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Everything posted by mnkyboy

  1. Advance Adapters is another option, they make a kit to put the AX4/AX5 bell on an AX15, it's spendy but less work than tracking down the Dakota stuff.
  2. I AX15 swapped mine but my 2.5l is making a lot more power than stock and has to turn full size axles and 37" tires, so i wanted the extra strength. For a street truck, the stock trans should hold up fine. Personally i would rather have an AX4 than an AX5, they are basically the same but with the AX4 you never have to worry about 5th gear issues that somerimes kills AX5s, also most AX4 trucks would need an axle swap or regear to even use 5th gear anyway.
  3. If you plan to wheel the truck, it doesn't really matter if you cut it. That nice sheet metal means nothing after the first time you smack a tree or rock with it. If preserving the truck is the goal, you probably shouldn't be wheeling it.
  4. Once my MJ became more of a dedicated trail rig i decided it needed a cage, unfortunately the tube i bought for it is still sitting in my brothers shop instead of on my truck were it can do me some good. After seeing my wife roll one of our XJs, i think any Jeep could benefit from some sort of cage or roll bar, the XJ crushed like someone had stomped a beer can.
  5. I ran 33s and 3.55s for a while, i went to 4.88s which was much better but still could have went deeper, 5.13s weren't available back when i geared it. Even with the 4.88s gears a 5th gear wasn't really needed, 5.13s would have been better. I would go to at least 5.13s or swap axles and go 5.38, 5.38s and 35s would be pretty nice. I currently run 5.38s and 37s with a built 2.5l and an AX15.
  6. That's awesome, this was the first year that I've missed it. I try to make it even if the MJ doesn't come with me, it's usually a pretty good event.
  7. I definitely wouldn't mind a set if you were to print some up.
  8. The part#s are long gone on mine, you can just see that they are Eibach springs, i was planning to eventually use a press and a scale to compress them an inch to see what they are. Problem is that they seem to work ok on my MJ so i haven't cared enough to pull them back off to test them.
  9. That's pretty cool, be awesome to make copies of each page and frame them.
  10. 1990 MJ with 14" ORI struts, the towers are from Bones custom creations, they are bolted and welded to the stiffeners.
  11. The idea here is that this thread will be a compilation of MJ coilover/air shock/ORI strut information. Feel free to add your set ups and/or any information. Here's my MJ with 14" Fox 2.0 coilovers and Eibach springs, currently not sure what spring rates I've got on it. I made simple towers from 1/4" plate which are welded to the frame stiffeners, eventually i want to beef them up, but so far they have worked fine.
  12. It is a handy tool to have. I already took the support off and put it back on when i tapped the steering box, but there really isn't much to it, i basically put the bearing on the sector shaft and started connecting the dots. My front end is already plated so I just tied into the existing plating rather than building a crossbrace like the off the shelf supports use.
  13. I finally built some hoses and machined the spacer to go inside the assist cylinder. I've got all sorts of steering power now. 20190404_172356.mp4
  14. Got the assist ram installed, i need to machine an internal stop for it but the placement looks like it will work pretty good. Also got the tapped steering box put in, which is a pain in the butt with my hidden winch set up. I couldn't get the Bluetooth hydraulic hoses to work, so i took some measurements so i can make a set.
  15. I had the Jeep out so i snapped some better pics of it with the trimmed bed.
  16. Tapped the last holes so now the sector shaft support is all bolted up, now i get to take it all back off so i can pull the steering box to install the hydro assist.
  17. The Astro van box is popular for swaps.
  18. As the Jeep grew, i just kept trimming away at the flares. I planned to eventually remove them but didn't get around to it till now. It looks good but different, it may take me a while to get use to it.
  19. Spent a couple hours in the garage tonight and made a sector shaft support for the MJ, it still needs a little more work to finish it, but should work pretty good.
  20. Finally got my Lincoln moved out of the garage and the MJ moved back in, tonight i decided to remove the rear flares, I've gone back and forth about it and finally decided to just start cutting. Now i have all sorts of room for activities, might have to get some 40s for it.
  21. Glad it's working for you, it is definitely something that should considered when swapping in a different axle. There are several configurations with many different drive shaft lengths, so results may vary.
  22. The snout on an 8.25" is about 1" longer than a D35, so the D35 drive shaft ends up being too long for a stock height/stock wheelbase rig. I imagine you could probably shove the yoke in all the way and make it fit but you could be looking at a catastrophic failure further down the road, I know there's several drive shaft combo's but i wouldn't expect any of them to have enough extra slip to operate safely like that. In my experience you typically want around a 6" lift to use a D35 shaft with an 8.25 or D44.
  23. Unless you have a big lift, an 8.25 swap typically also requires a new driveshaft. D35 would be a lot cheaper and assuming the axle is in good condition should hold up just fine.
  24. It's the Convoy/ Deathproof duck, it does look a lot like the Oregon duck though. Since i live in Oregon, I'm sure many people will think it's the U of O duck, not that that's a bad thing, maybe i should add a beaver to even it out.
  25. A while back my son made me a hood ornament, it came out good but looked a little too small with the supercharger sitting behind it. So he upscaled it and made a much larger one, the new one seems to fit the truck better.
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