mnkyboy

You might spend a little time to clean it up and see what you've got before scrapping it, $750 isn't very much money for a project car as long as it's in decent shape.

Looks pretty straight, just a good washing will make a huge difference.

I've been tinkering on this thing for a few months.

You definitely want to watch the driveline angles with that set up, with that axle on leafs you will be fighting between driveline angle and caster unless you cut and turn the Cs, try to keep the lift as low as you can. NWF black box or their ECO box would be a good option, I run a Behemoth strong box on mine which is also good, but the company isn't as good to deal with as NWF is.

I run an AX15 with a crawl box and a built 231 with SYE in my short box MJ. I've pushed the front axle about 4" forward and the rear back about 1" giving me a 118" wheelbase. My driveshafts are 38-1/2" front and 40-3/8" rear, so even without the stretch they would both be plenty long enough to get a decent angle. My truck also has a tummy tuck which increases the angle, my drive shafts think I have around a 10" lift because of the tummy tuck.

205 is a good case but limited on gearing. I would swap to a 4wd trans and run a crawl box into a second case, that will give you more ratio options and give you the driveshaft length/angle you are after.

Seems to be mainly tuning issues, people blow up their engine and blame the engine. There's people in the boosted 4.0l group exceeding 20psi

I haven't installed an IAT gauge yet so not sure on intake temps but after hours of wheeling on hot summer days the intercooler is still cool to the touch, it would be interesting to get some actual temp readings. I stuck with the 2.5l mostly to see what I could do with it, I figure if I get tired of playing with it I can swap something else in since the rest of the truck is already built to handle it, the truck has an AX15 in it so a 4.0l or something would be fairly easy to swap in. But think the little 2.5l actually works pretty good in a wheeler, 2.5l trucks are balanced better than the very nose heavy 4.0l trucks which works pretty well offroad. When the truck was still naturally aspirated it could hold it's own with 4.0l rigs on the road,it surprised a few 4.0l owners. With the supercharger it feels considerably more powerful than my 4.0l 5spd XJ.

If one does exist, I've got it. I didn't want any problems at low speed on the trail. There is a 4 gallon reservoir/ice box in the bed with an electric water pump, it moves fluid through copper tubing up to a front mount bar and plate style heat exchanger behind the grill, then through a laminova water/air intercooler under the supercharger, and through more copper tubing back to the reservoir. And yes the system is grounded and has an anode in it to combat galvanic corrosion.

I do have a wide band, under boost the AFR stays around 12:1-13:1 which is not great but safe for lower boost,especially with my overkill intercooler set up. I bought the FMU to see if I could get it a little richer but then bought the stand alone, if I don't get the Speeduino running on it soon I may toss the FMU on for a while.

Here's my truck, it's running a 2.5l 4banger and turning 37s.

7psi on a stock ECU with a MAP adjuster and 24lb injectors, I also got an adjustable FMU but haven't installed it yet.

If you are on Facebook, check out the boosted 4.0 owners club, boosting a 4.0l isn't uncommon and there's a ton of information on there. For your OBD1 4.0l your kinda limited on options, I think something like Megasquirt will be your best bet for tuning,most of the split second stuff is only for the OBD2 ECUs. I currently run a 91 ECU on my MJ and it's getting by but a standalone would be significantly better. I'm working on going with Speeduino,but I'm finding that even though it's similar to Megasquirt, it is a bit less user friendly.

Mnkyboy was something I came up with about 30 years ago when I was setting up my AOL account, I have used it on every forum I have been on since. As a kid I really liked monkeys, so I figured Mnkyboy would be a great screen name.

If you ever go to coilovers, the coil towers will be fighting with the master cylinder for real estate. Something to keep in mind as you decide on a brake set up.

Mines from a 98 or 99 2500, it bolts directly to the XJ dual diaphragm booster. Only mod is to the boosters push rod, the stock adjuster is too short. You can make a new one using a 1/4" 28tpi bolt, the new adjuster needs to be around 7/8" longer than the stock one. I've heard that Dodge 2500 masters fit with no modification, but I haven't personally installed one.

Typically people run a 1.25" with 1 ton brakes, I run a 1.25" from a Dodge 2500 on mine but I run an XJ dual diaphragm booster. I'm not sure what there is for bolt on options for the WJ booster.

That could be a fun little car.

It's a pretty good movie, even the wife enjoyed it and she was completely uninterested when I drug her to the theater to see it.

I just keep an eye out for people doing swaps, many of them just want the 4banger stuff out of their garage.

You need the engine and dash harnesses from an MPFI MJ/XJ, the ECM, gauge cluster, fuel pump/sending unit, fuel lines,flywheel, a complete MPFI engine and pretty much everything that plugs into it, and a few other things. It's much easier to put in a complete MPFI 2.5l, but you could strip your TBI 2.5l down and redress it as an MPFI. It's a pretty big project and rarely done, which is why you don't see much information on the swap.

I supercharged my 89, I also converted from TBI to MPFI.

The part that welds on is trimmed back on the rear hinges, you could add the metal back or weld them on as is. Otherwise they are the same hinge.

Front and rear hinges are slightly different but interchangeable, which is good to know especially when looking for used hinges. XJ rear hinges are typically in much better condition than front hinges.

Not yet, I've been tinkering on my MGs so the MJ has been on the back burner. I'm just about ready to pull my parts MG out of the garage so I can bring in the MJ and swap oil pumps. I picked up some fresh race oil a couple days ago for it, hopefully I have all sorts of oil pressure here soon