dankicksass

This is my factory spare. It's a Goodyear 225/75D15 on a eight-square-hole rim. Temporary use only, max speed 50 MPH. I have the factory accessory spare tire brace too. That size matches the Firestone tires I just got, so maybe my speedo will read right. That's a plus.

Dorman has OEM type pulleys. #300130. The stock XJ 4.0 pulley is an under drive on GM pumps, if you want to use that. Dorman pulleys are Chinese.

I believe have a factory full size temp spare. It's ugly, but I'll get a photo in the morning. I think my truck came stock with 185s but don't hold me to that. It has 225s on it now, and a full size matching spare, but that won't be going under the bed again.

I need one out of a newer XJ or a ZJ, my aftermarket auto shift knob is nasty hard plastic.

With the truck loaded (or unloaded) as you will normally drive it, crawl under and measure the distance between to lower and upper shock mount studs. Then go to the Monroe shocks web site and find their on-line catalog. At the back is a chart that lists the dimensions and mount types for every shock they make. Look for one with eye mounts top and bottom and lengths such that the measurement you took off your truck is at the mid-point between the compressed and extended length. That will give you a shock part number. You can then cross-reference that part number to find what make and year vehicle it fits. Once you know that, you can use that info to order any brand socks you like. Monroe's charts will have L1 for both mounts on the rear for the MJ.

Removing the straight overload leaf on a truck is bad news if you actually use it like a truck, probably best we leave those in there unless the bed has been rendered un-useable by modification.

You would use a silicone adhesive to put them back together.

You can. It's heat bonded together.

KK and KJ are both 5x4.5 like the XJ, MJ, TJ, YJ, ZJ.

Ok good. The way you described it sounded like you had applied vac from the booster assy to the axles.

Why are you applying vacuum to your axles?

That looks great.

I used 1/4npt in a 14mm hole once but it was in a real jam and I soldered it together. Hopefully you didn't kill it too bad and you can use an appropriate adapter to replace the one you have in there.

This is a very smart article.

EDIT: I posted something useless here before. I went to the junkyard and got two 136A alternators from Dodge Dakota or Durango, they were both 99s so I have a plug instead of rings now. No big deal. I probably should have looked a little harder for earlier ones but I'm easy, it'll work.

Stainless steel is overrated. I have the black chrome Gorilla nuts on my Chevy since 05, and they're still fine. I can't imagine CT road crews being any more liberal with salt application than NJ DOT and PennDOT.

If you're looking for wood on the outside, you'll probably be disappointed. Aside from that, if you have $50k to spend on a mall crawler, it will probably satisfy your wife.

No trouble with Tapatalk here, I use it on my iPhone and iPad.

When you say "prerunner bumper," I think light, tube and sheet metal.

I came around, the black eBay projectors can look cool.

Another little tip if you're taking a bed off alone, slip a rug between the bed and cab. Drape it over the bed into the void and stuff it all the way down to the frame. This helps protect the finish and minimize the chance of damaging the cab or bed sheetmetal if you don't have enough help to just lift and walk the bed off easily.

It's not that easy to find a YJ for under $5000 anymore, at least in my neighborhood. I'm sure there's somebody out there who will enjoy this compromise. I do have some strong doubts about the functionality of the windshield wipers on plastic though.

I'm interested in this thread, bought a same size Hobart Millermatic for axle fab, metal patching and bumper fab and so on. I read a few days ago that I'll need to heat the axle tubes to 400° F to get adequate penetration. I think MAPP gas is adequate for that.

A 4cyl Toyota diesel is either old, or non-USA-market (Mexico or Japan), or a Hino... Ford diesels and Cummins 12v motors are easy to make power with. Really easy. I hear AMC V8s fit easy in Comanches.

I found what I wanted to know on Pirate4x4, thanks to Mr. N there. He made a nice, comprehensive and easy to follow chart. I edited it down for my own usage. Seems there are a number of options from GM that would be nearly drop-in to reduce the rear spring length and gain some ability to bob the back end. Obviously you'd need to weld a rear shackle hanger on each side but that's not a problem if you're considering this kind of thing anyway.