partsmj

I got my shirts today. Way cool. Thanks, Brett.

Here is something to try. Unbolt the slave from the bellhousing. Compress the rod using a c clamp. Bleed the cylinder, being careful not to let the master run dry. It is a small reservoir. Bolt it back on. Hope this helps. Good luck.

I had clutch trouble a while ago. Bottom line was the pin that held the slave to the trans came loose and it was flopping around. I put a new pin in and it was good to go. Hope this helps. Good luck.

I drove it to work today. This was a couple of weeks ago at Rausch Creek.

I would like t-shirt tan with green logo 2xl long sleeve forest green with tan logo 2xl. Can I send a send a check? thanks, Ken.

Comanche warriors on history international tonight at 8 pm.

I disconnected my cable at the trans, and fed it thru the dash. It made it a lot easier to disconnect and reconnect it to the speedometer. I have an 88.

Way cool! kind of a mini superbird. I would take one.

timing is tricky the rotor goes just before no 1. here is a couple of links. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/timing-4-0l-508405/ http://www.askamechanic.info/askamech2/ ... iew/48/47/

here is one way. the cut out dist cap helps to see where the rotor is. http://www.askamechanic.info/askamech2/ ... iew/48/47/ here is another. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/timing-4-0l-508405/

I bought these with the tow strap. http://custom4x4fabrication.com/recovery.html

Thats 124 times higher then where I am.

it only costs $1 ?

I was going to bolt in some bucket seats and a console, but I decided to pull the carpet before it was too late. It was too late.

if i remember the michelins on the m715 were 12.5 r 20. they were big.

A local show that was held in Lansford, Pa. at the No. 9 Coal Mine & Museum. Here are some photos.

http://www.pajeeps.org/ I was there last year. Not too many Comanches. Maybe the club can get a spot and be recognized. See you there.

These are my Comanches .

A radiator is a good idea. I put in a new radiator that I bought from summit racing. It took me a while to stop the trans fluid leak. The fitting on the top needed to be tightened. While I was in there I noticed the water pump was leaking. I changed it. The cooler lines were toast, I changed them too. And the fittings in the trans. I didn't want any leaks there. New thermostat, upper and lower hoses, fresh coolant. I also replaced the switch in the radiator and it works fine. The temp starts to climb in traffic, and the fan kicks on and the temp drops, just like it should. Good luck with yours.

http://pic60.picturetrail.com:80/VOL171 ... 704627.jpg http://pic60.picturetrail.com:80/VOL171 ... 704683.jpg post the pics or the links?

just a couple of backyard pics. the Jeep is down.

I have owned a few 88-90 Renix Jeeps, The vacuum mess is on the valve cover. The rear tube for 87-90 is 4762592. Front for the 87, both halves 53004378 and 53004379 Front for the 88-90 53004838 and 53004868 Pick up a map sensor line 53004589. search by factory part number #2 http://www.newjeepparts.com/Jeep-parts.htm Here is a naxja link, http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=903179

I think the dealer can reset it for you with the drb. Kinda like erasing a code.

You must compress the rod into the cylinder. I don't know why, but I do remember it was the only way the mechanics could bleed them. The cylinder had to be removed. Maybe use a c clamp to compress the rod into the cylinder. Good luck.

I remember way back, when they used to see these in the shop. The way to bleed the clutch cylinders, is to unbolt the slave from the bellhousing and find a way to compress the rod that fits in the fork. A socket and a big vice grip is the way to go. One pump at a time and always fill the reservoir because it runs out quick. Hope this helps. Any questions let me know.