benjy_26

Rancho 2.5" coils on the front (actually measures at 3" of lift), bone stock 2wd leavea in the rear. 31" BFG AT's on 15x8 MB Razors. Unsure of thr BS. Oh, and mine's a 4 banger. This may affect how it sits in the front vs a L6 truck with the same springs.

lol Yup. If you were in the West Texas area you could come grab my D35 in a few days for FREE.

Not every peg fits every hole... I agree, the aftermarket SUCKS for the 44A. BUT with the proper truss to alleviate the flexing issues, it should be a pretty strong axle. It has a beefier R&P set up than a regular 44, IIRC. One can also get decent gears for it, up to 4.56's I think. I stand by my statement.

The D35 has gotten a bad rap, IMHO. If all of your driving is on the street, using street tires and aren't running obscene amounts of power, I believe it can survive. It's small size and relative light weight are also assets in an application such as yours. On top of that, it's already on the vehicle.

95 C1500 brake hoses work for 5 inches of lift in the front with a bit of grinding. ZJ steering box has a quicker ratio and bolts in ZJ V8 Tie rod bolts in ZJ aux tranny cooler makes for a dandy P/S cooler ZJ spring isolators have a metal core and are stackable. Good for a cheeeeaaap budget boost or for leveling a rig from side to side The zj 44A isn't as sought after as the 8.8, but I think if one is building a street 'Manche or keeping the tire size sane, it would make for a strong (enough), cheap, plentiful upgrade that is the right width and comes with discs to boot that is significantly lighter than the 8.8.

I let mine soak in Nuts Off for a week, then took em out with a BFH. Used a press eerily similar yo Hornbrod's to push new ones in.

I have 31's and 3.55's in mine with an AX4. It's not HORRIBLE, but I would like some lower gears, if nor for outright speed, then at least for more control while going slow.

Yeah. I have the type where the only thing that needs to be pulled is the cap.

Sounds like it's rebuild time. Can you smell burnt fluid/clutch material?

Do you mean a sync sensor code 54? Check to see if the wires are correctly positioned in the shell detent exiting the distributor, i.e. not crushed by the cap. If okay, I'd swap out the sync sensor. I've had two of those go bad. Exactly the one! I'll look at it. Is there any way to check the pickup coil?

Swapped MAP, O2. and indexed the dizzy. I had initially put his 4° advanced out of habit (I have a rather large cam on my 4.0) and we got..... NOTHING. Back to no start/no spark. Went to Oteiley's for a fresh CPS, and there's voltage to the coil's primary (green wire), but the secondary does not show that it's switching. Changed the ASD relay, still nothing. I'm about to swap PCM's in a minute just to see what happens. The funny thing is... it was running on Friday night. Hell, we drove it for a few miles and, despite some low RPM stumbling, it did fine.

^^ Don't feel too bad, Jim. There ARE yellow metal safe GL5's out there. Just make sure it explicitly says so on the tin.

4 quarts of Mobil 1 10-30 in mine. It's pretty smooth...

Thanks for the tip, Frank. I'm diving in now. I'll come back with my findings.

Maybe. I havent checked pressure. I ran the key off/on test and came up with faults in the pickup coil circuit, voltage to the MAP sensor being too high or low, and a fault in the O2 sensor circuit. I'll let y'all know what happens tomorrow.

I've slammed my brakes from 40,50, 60, up to 75mph, with mud terrains and all terrains, dry and wet and have never gone into a sideways slide. I guess it depends on the situation.

Ok... so it's running, but it has a low idle, a misfire, and it still won't rev past 4k. Any thoughts?

^^^ That's what I was thinking. :-\

Cool deal. I'll stick to stock. Thanks, everyone. :)

On a 4.0 HO, the CPS should be open/infinite when checking resistance between the B and C pins.I now have spark coming out of the coil (Had a defective MSD Blaster SS on our hands). Now, I just need to properly index the dizzy (messed up the 1st time, apparently) and we should be golden. Sorry, I thought it was the same as a Renix CPS. No prob!

BTW, No codes are present on the ECM aside from 12 and 55.

On a 4.0 HO, the CPS should be open/infinite when checking resistance between the B and C pins.I now have spark coming out of the coil (Had a defective MSD Blaster SS on our hands). Now, I just need to properly index the dizzy (messed up the 1st time, apparently) and we should be golden.

Nice! Is the LUK an OEM replacement, or is it a hi-po version?

True! ^^^ Didnt think of it. I stopped seeing the forest for the trees. Thanks, Don.

Ok, So I used a set of Nood lights Nd I'm getting injector pulses and i used a test light and I AM getting current at the coil connections when I open the key and when cranking. This rules out a bad CPS or ECM, correct?