benjy_26

HPA makes a kit to drop a TDI in place of the 2.5 in a YJ and XJ. I did the math last year and aiI think I came up with a figure right around 10 grand, give or take.

Did you make sure you had the gear housing in the same orientation as it came out? They have little notches to get it "timed" right. I did not notice that! Thanks for the tip. I didn't remove the gear housing, just the cable. I'll disassemble it and see if that helps once I get the new cable in. My speedo shuddered a bit before, may as well swap the cable, I think.

A good exhaust goes a long way towards making high RPM excursions in the 2.5 enjoyable. When I first got my truck, I was granny shifting like a mofo It sounded like I was about to drop a rod! I swapped in a custom exhaust based around Magnaflow components and I get it up past 4000 now without too much drama.

Learning is what it's all about!

By my calculations, I'll be doing 67 at 3000 rpm with 31's if I go with 4.88's. A bit high, but it's in the meaty part of the power band, doesn't beat the engine too much, and is still faster than the 60mph speed limit imposed on me inside my city limits. At 70mph, I'll be going less than 3200rpm. Good enough for cruising long distances, I think. Besides, this leaves me open to step up to 33's and not suffer TOO much. The only thing I worry about with the 4.88's is the one tooth contact on the front D30. May be a weak point. If you plan on wheeling your MJ, the lower cogs really start showing their usefulness. With 4.88's and an AX5, in low range, 1st gear (np231), I'll be crawling at less than 5mph right at 3000rpm. ALMOST perfect for dealing with difficult, rocky terrain. If I drop a crawl box between my T case and tranny (in the works), that crawl speed goes down to under TWO MPH!

Redline for the 2.5 is 5600rpm. 3000 isn't unheard for a 4 banger. Keep in mind, it's gotta spin to make power. Based on that dyno sheet and the grimm jeeper table, I plan on going with 4.56's or 4.88's in mine when I swap in a 5 speed. If you look at the dyno sheet, there ain't a whole lot going on in this engine below 2400rpm.

This is not the TBI engine, but, it'll do as an example. The most practical reason to swap gear after a tire change is to keep the revs of the engine as close to the TQ peak as possible for the longest time possible. This will ensure greater responsiveness and arguably will promote efficiency. The 2.5 peaks out around 3000 rpm. A cruising rpm of about 2500-2800 would be ideal for most applications. I suggest to gear accordingly.

^^^ I was about to say that. I paid way too much for my tires to risk them on sheet metal and glass.

Oh, and here's a few pics of it on a spare set of 32's I have. Just for fun...

So.. I've been driving this thing as a semi- DD for a few months now... and my slave cylinder decides to take a dump! I had a hell of a time getting it home without a clutch. Crossing a mountain pass while shifting clutch-less is quite the adventure. . :MJ 1: . I purchased a Powertorque clutch kit from Oreiley's Auto, which included a new clutch set, alignment tool, and slave cylinder. I also replaced the hose assembly and had the flywheel turned. I must say, the replacement went smoother than I thought, and the truck drives a whole lot better, Everything is great... except that my speedo no longer works. I have a cable on order coming in. Hopefully that takes care of that!

I'm running an AX4 with 3.55's behind my Squirrel and 31" BFG AT's. Describing it as a 3 speed with overdrive is pretty accurate, though it keeps up with traffic on the freeway just fine.

Welcome. You need to have another site host your pics. I use photobucket.

I think they look cool, but I wouldnt run em. They'll probably blow as soon as you mount em. et some swampers if you like that style of tire.

99 into an 89? It'll be easier if you find a pre 96 donor vehicle for your conversion

That's just for one though. Ebay has sets of 4 for around $100~ They even have a "Rivet style" Version too Cool deal! I think I'm going to pick up a set.

https://www.google.com/search?q=replacement+flares+2000+k2500&client=ms-android-virgin-us&espvd=1&source=univ&tbm=shop&sboxchip=Shopping&sa=X&ei=9Gq9U6edC8W-8gGr-IBo&ved=0CBwQsxg&biw=320&bih=460#spd=16811708114836151867 Under 60 bones a pop... Not bad when compared to other aftermarket flares.

http://www.purplewaveauction.com/i/a/2011/20110504midwest/5094.JPG I knew it!

I remember havibg some similar to that on a company truck I used to drive at a previous job. IIRC, it was a 99 or 2000 Chevy K2500. I may be wrong, though. I have to hit the JY's next time I have a day off.

Oreiley's has a high altitude unit marketed under their BWD line.

One word: "Supercharger" You want more low end grunt, then you want a supercharger. Did not say it was cheap, but it will do more for that 2.5 4 banger than anything else. Especially big improvemet at the LOW end. Everything else you can do for the 4 banger will improve the top end, but not the low end. Now, gears will deliver more torque to the ground, but your engine will be screaming on the freeway. A big diesel engine conversion will also get you low end power in spades. But you will need $10K or so for starters. Hold the phone! Someone makes a SC for the TBI 2.5?

I'm going to have to do some research. Those look slick on the MJ!

What year are those Chebby flares?!? I'm really interested in those.

Same 3" lift in the front, stock 2wd in the back. 32" BFG's on Jeep Canyons.

Ah... TJ lift coils? Yeah. If you get 3" TJ coils they're 2"s on an MJ.

Don't TJ coils DROP us one inch?