benjy_26

Does anyone have a list or chart of the poaint codes used on our trucks? I'm thinking of getting mine resprayed, and would like to stick to the original version of white. Thanks a bunch!

Here's one: http://www.stak4x4.com/Dana_300/d300_aw4.htm

Good progress!

Two thumbs up! Great rig!

Most def. A buddy of mine runs one in a XJ running 33's under a ~300hp 4.9 stroker... and he runs it HARD. No issues after 3 years. This is after havijng blown up 2 8.25 ChryCo rear ends.

For sure.

^^^ Let me get home, but I THINK I have a set of 4 that thake H4 bulbs sitting in my house. We can work something out if you like.

Just as the front of the Jeep version of the AW4 has the AMC bolt pattern that only fits the AMC block the rear has the NP round pattern that does not match the Yoder pattern. If you want to go pass. drop in an auto XJ/MJ you can get a cheap $50 spacer that allows you to bolt the darn good Dana 300 t-case to the AW4. I did this to put an AW4 into a CJ as they are pass. drop from the factory as was the D60 I swapped in. Otherwise doing the $100 junkyard shaft upgrade ( or starting with the later HP30 front) makes the HP D30 as good as a LP D44 per the magazine ratings. Then throw on a $100 truss.....For someone considering a D60 front swap getting the usually considerably cheaper gm/dodge pass side version and doing the swap to the much stronger iron D300 can offer a considerable money savings over the very pricey Ford driver's drop HP D60. I waited until I found a good deal and wound up with $600 in the pass. drop D60, spacer, and D300 for the CJ. Even though I saved $200 on the usual price of the axle paying the usual $600 price still would make it less than 1/2 the cost of what a driver's drop D60 goes for around here. Sorry, I didnt consider the auto tranny. I was thinking of the AX15. With a change in tailhousing and main shaft off of a R151, you can bolt on the gear driven Yota cases (and open up a wolrd of cheap doublers!). And I forgot the Aisen sticks, just the Aisen Warner sourced AW4. lol Two heads, man. :)

Nice! Pics, are, of course, expected.

^^^ Killer Jeep! You may want to do something about that grill, though. J/K I dig that look.

Just as the front of the Jeep version of the AW4 has the AMC bolt pattern that only fits the AMC block the rear has the NP round pattern that does not match the Yoder pattern. If you want to go pass. drop in an auto XJ/MJ you can get a cheap $50 spacer that allows you to bolt the darn good Dana 300 t-case to the AW4. I did this to put an AW4 into a CJ as they are pass. drop from the factory as was the D60 I swapped in. Otherwise doing the $100 junkyard shaft upgrade ( or starting with the later HP30 front) makes the HP D30 as good as a LP D44 per the magazine ratings. Then throw on a $100 truss.....For someone considering a D60 front swap getting the usually considerably cheaper gm/dodge pass side version and doing the swap to the much stronger iron D300 can offer a considerable money savings over the very pricey Ford driver's drop HP D60. I waited until I found a good deal and wound up with $600 in the pass. drop D60, spacer, and D300 for the CJ. Even though I saved $200 on the usual price of the axle paying the usual $600 price still would make it less than 1/2 the cost of what a driver's drop D60 goes for around here. Sorry, I didnt consider the auto tranny. I was thinking of the AX15. With a change in tailhousing and main shaft off of a R151, you can bolt on the gear driven Yota cases (and open up a wolrd of cheap doublers!).

There's an 88 with the speaker brackets still on it at the Pull a Part on Montana and Joe Battle.

Yep, still looking. I didnt get a notification from this thread. :-/

Nice rig! Simple, yet tasty. :)

Arent the Ranger and Mustang 8.8's loaded with 28 spline shafts and center sections?

That is why the beam pattern is so important. It is not just about the brightness (lumens) or the "color" of the light. The e-code headlights are much better than the SAE lights for the beam patterns. Way too many aftermarket lights are sold just for being bright with no attention paid to where the light goes or what it does to the other motorists. This. Also, you have to be careful witt the colors of the bulbs. Some cheap "upgrade" bulbs look like they produce whiter light because of the blue coatings they have. Not beneficial at all.

IN THEORY, since the XJ's and many MJ's used Aisin sourced trannys, it could be possible to run a 'Yota t-case with a passenger drop and then get a narrow track Waggy D44 under the front if you were so inclined. Me? I'll stick to smaller tires and HPD30's.

I wish they made LED 9004 replacement bulbs. :-/

Cool deal. Thanks for the info. I'll have to do the same. I ordered my perches from Ballistic, and they also have the 1" offset mounting holes.

I hate you. I mean that in the best possible way. :)

I just gotta say that I LOVE your build! It's a c killer truck! BTW, how far away from the center section did you place your spring mounts on the 8.8? How/where did you locate them?

I've pulled a 3k lb trailer with my 2.5 on 31's and it's been fine. It takes a while to get up to 55mph and you WILL need to downshift to maintain speed uphill, but it will get it done. Personally, I'm going with 4.56's when I get my 5 speed installed.

BAHAHAHAHAH!!! That's too funny!

For the build, I mean.

What are your plans?