schardein

So my truck has pretty bad "valve train rattle" or "piston knock" that lasts 10-20 seconds on startup. It also does it a little during "float" condition while cruising and is quite noticeable when accelerating at cruise speeds. I've done some minor engine mods including aftermarket exhaust manifold, newer style intake, 1996 throttle body with MAP mounted to it, 4 hole injectors with no appreciable change to the noise. Recently, truck started having an off idle hesitation. Then I noticed some mild spark knock, and the transmission wanted to stay in a lower gear longer. I would accelerate and then lift off the pedal to get it to shift. Making it upshift would lesson the spark knock. Driving to work two days ago, valve train rattle seemed a lot worse, and actually sounded more like spark knock, (pre-ignition, detonation). Then it threw a check engine light which showed a code 24. I was actually happy about this as it hopefully narrowed down my troubleshooting. Replaced the TPS with a spare last night. WOW! No more off idle hesitation and it most definitely cleared up ALL the spark knock. Running great again. Shifting is also back to normal. I can't remember if I left the 1996 TPS on the throttle body when I installed it, or swapped on the original 91. But the spare 91 TPS sure solved it. I still have the valve train rattle on startup, and I hadn't realized how bad the spark knock was until it was fixed. I ordered a case of WIX oil filters which arrived yesterday. Hoping the next oil change shows an improvement on the valve train rattle at startup, but I fear the motor has just had a hard life/sustained some excessive wear in the past. We'll see.

http://www.speedhut.com/ Go to this website and look at their "speedbox". It comes up on their main display page if you give it a second to change. I have a set of Speedhut gauges in my CJ and they are awesome. GPS speedometer, with the option of wiring it to a VSS.

I noticed on the way to work one morning that my speedo wasn't working. Everything else seemed to be ok. I looked down 10 minutes later and it was now working. Over the course of several months I would occasionally notice it wasn't working first thing in the morning. I've since switched instrument clusters twice. And since then I've never noticed it not working. Perhaps in my case it was the screws on the instrument cluster or the wiring connection.

Very cool. Never knew they made those.

In that picture I don't think you are getting an accurate measurement, although it's hard to tell. I suggest you put the angle finder on the yoke, where the bolt holes for the u-joint are. Then turn the yoke so it is pointing straight up and down.

Hopefully someone will chime in on what a factory long wheelbase has the rear pinion angle set at. From a basic automotive engineering standpoint, you want the angle of upwards tilt on the rear axle to match the angle of downward tilt of the transmission or transfer rear output. These two angles then cancel each other out. This results in no driveshaft vibrations. If the front and rear u-joints are at different angles it can result in vibrations. This is for a normal driveshaft with a single u-joint at each end. If you have a double u-joint at one end (usually the transfer case end), then you want zero angle at the pinion. This is because the two u-joints on the double carden cancel each other out, and having an angle at the pinion end will result in vibrations. You can google "pinion angle" and look at images and see a bunch of images of what I'm describing.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1991,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180055,cooling+system,radiator+mount,11583

Wow. Saved all the photos. Do you think the markings on the front axle indicate 3.73 gears? Couldn't find any gear ratio markings on the window sticker. Now I see what my cordovan interior COULD look like.

I sent Linale an email and got no reply. Do you think General Springs ordered more than one set to have some in stock?

Do you need the piece that clips into the glove box door, and has the keyhole? Or the part inside the glove box, that has the light on it? Or both?

Yeah, but the Marines couldn't get there unless the Navy carried them. True. Although for my first combat tour, I flew in, commercial air. Our equipment came off MPF ships, which I believe had civilian crews. My second and third combat tours, I flew commercial, except for the final leg which was in an Air Force C130. My limited time on actual Navy ships was for training during RimPac.

If the army and the navy ever look on Heaven's scenes They will find the streets are guarded By UNITED STATES MARINES

I've been on leave for a couple days, so had time to fiddle. I've got an extra NP231 transfer case indicator panel/bezel. The colors were faded. See first pic. I ripped apart a spare Cherokee automatic transmission indicator panel (actually it was broke and finished ripping it apart) and found a blue plastic "film"which gives color to the indicator. I cut this with scissors to fit most of the shift pattern. I cut a piece of red bumper sticker (from a handy Semper Fi! bumper sticker. Doesn't everyone have a stash of those?) and used it for the 4L. The auto trans piece is also a source for red film, it indicates what gear you are in. I used that for another project though. The bumper sticker was self stick, the blue film was cut to size so it almost stuck in there on its own. I used a couple small pieces of scotch tape to help it stay put. If that doesn't do the trick, I'm sure a couple dabs of white glue or even super glue would work. Second pic shows the finished project, third pic shows the finished product from the back and some of the parts sources.

See my post in #11. Many times it is a broken turn signal cam that gives the lever a sloppy feel. These can be replaced separately. They are part of the turn signal switch, which can also be entirely replaced to fix the problem although it's usually not needed. You will have to dig into the column to diagnose it. And a lock plate tool is one of those things that are hard to make do without.

Another option is the rear cargo light from earlier S10 Blazers. I had to open both the width and length of the factory mounting hole just slightly (1/8" longer, 1/16" wider) and of course splice in the connector. Might be cheaper than the Euramatec lights, which seem a little expensive to me for what they are. I've found several pairs of factory lights over the years in the junkyards, and they are nearly always already broken or crumble to pieces when being removed. http://comancheclub.com/topic/51051-s10-blazer-rear-cargo-lights-b-pillar-comanche-retrofit-in-missouri/

This may or may not be on topic, but both my XJ and MJ had worn door weatherstripping, mostly near the door latch, where I think it gets rubbed as you get in and out. The rest was in good shape. What I did is get one good seal from a 1996 XJ, which is the newest model for that style of weatherstrip. Then I just cut a section out of it and patched it into mine. This way one new seal fixed all mine, including the back doors on the XJ. I cut it with a large pliers-type razor cutter. Be advised there is some wire reinforcement so give it a good squeeze. I cut the replacement piece just a tad (1/8") long to ensure a snug fit and used short lengths of vacuum hose inside the hollow tube (which is what I found on the seam of the factory weatherstripping). If that area ever goes bad again (from door rubbing or whatever causes it), I've still got enough to do another repair.

Current Pendaliner catalog shows a 86-96 Dodge Dakota tailgate piece part number of D60-BT. It does not show Comanche applications. Perhaps this is covered somewhere, but does anyone know if a Dakota tailgate liner would work on a Comanche? (Basing this question off the similar part numbers)

I use vinegar quite a bit for cleaning things around the house. Never tried it for electrical connectors though. I don't think it will hurt anything and may work well. I've had the best results cleaning electrical connections on my Jeeps by carefully removing the terminals from the plastic housings and cleaning them separately. I have some specific tools for this, (http://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/electrical,tool,wire+removal+tool,1000998) and have also used improvised tools such as paper clips and small knitting needles. Take pictures and do one at a time so they get put back together correctly.

I found an 86 MJ in the pick-n-pull. It had a bed liner. I already have a factory bed mat, and mine is a short bed, so I couldn't use the full bed liner. I did grab the tailgate piece, however. When I pulled it off, I was surprised to find a Pendaliner tag on the backside, near the top of the driver side. I can't quite make out the part number which appears to be hand written. J 60 BT?

I did a search and came up empty handed, so adding this.

:rotf:

gave me a estimated $250 for a 5ftx6ft bed !?!?! I got mine for free when they redid a local gym. I'm sure you could find a cheaper source, that was just an example of an option.

I found one in a junkyard, but that's a long shot. before that, I was using this: http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/rubber-roll/commercial-rubber-roll.html It actually worked really well, my piece, while wider than the wheel wells, wasn't quite as wide as the bed. But if you get piece that is wide enough, I think it would look better than a larger bed mat cut to size.

Yep, I've done 4 and just used the gasket each time. I use a gasket scraper, followed by a green scotchbrite pad, followed by a shop towel w/ brake cleaner to get mating surfaces perfectly clean.