schardein

OK, found it behind the lower drawer.

I was thinking the same thing. Got excited because I didn't check inside. But no. Nothing under the cooktop I could find either.

Oven is a Whirlpool, I'll look again for a wattage rating and model number and work the google fu. The outlet in the photo is the one I would like to use, it has the 30 amp CB and is about 3 feet from the breaker panel. I'll check wire size this afternoon. My common sense meter is telling me this is the plan: Try to find wattage of oven (hopefully about 30a for oven alone). Verify wire gauge size in existing circuit is 10 or better. Buy new cord for oven, at same time buy matching outlet rated at 30 amps. Would you agree an oven rated at XX amps would be for the oven and all top burners on at same time? I don't know what the industry standard is for wattage ratings on ovens.

Thanks for the replies. This (pic) is the only thing I could find on the oven. I can't find a wattage or amps usage on it. The workshop was used as a woodworking shop by the original builder. It's very well built, well insulated, and has 36 110 outlets and 3 220 outlets. I'd be surprised if anything was under spec, but I'll check. The two (220 volt wall) outlets look like the one in the picture. The 3rd is in the ceiling, currently only has wires (no outlet wired in). I assume he had a large machine in the middle of the floor wired to it directly. The air compressor motor is rated at 15 amps. The circuit breaker is a two pole 20 amp. The other 220 outlet (same as one in the pic) has a two pole 30 amp circuit breaker. The ceiling mounted box is also a two pole 30 amp CB.

Also, does anyone here do powder coating? Tips or experiences? I already have an air compressor & blast cabinet. Just bought the stove and a Harbor Freight powder coating rig.

I just bought a used oven to use for powdercoating. My workshop is wired for 220 volts. The oven came with a cord that doesn't fit my wall outlet. The person I bought the oven from said the cord came with the new oven (they switched to stainless) but didn't match the plug in their home, so they used the old cord (from the oven I have). I don't have the oven manual, and I don't know how much energy it uses. I have this plug (see pic) that I currently use to power an upright 220v air compressor. Can I buy a cord that fits this plug, and safely use it with the oven? My thought is whatever wattage rating the oven may have, is probably for all the elements on at once? I'll never do that, in fact I plan to remove 3 of the top burner elements, leaving one for boiling water to test engine coolant thermostats.

It's funny how things turn out. I've had a leak in my Chevy truck for... well, over a year. I always figured it was the rear main seal, or perhaps oil pan gasket on the engine. Just a few drops every time I park it. Since it has always burned about a quart between oil changes, I always keep an eye on the level during long trips, and just lived with the leak. Then, two weeks ago, I developed a really nasty power steering fluid leak. Couldn't determine exactly where from, but I went ahead and replaced the pump. It may have been the original (330,000 miles!), and once I got it off, determined it was definitely leaking from the shaft seal. Aaaaand, then the next day I drive 1.5 hours to Springfield, park and discover I STILL have a nasty power steering leak, AND a coolant leak. Baby it home, stopping to top off both, and tear into it again. The water pump gasket on the pass side bank let go. No idea if it was original, doesn't seem likely, but could have been. I remember leaning pretty hard on the water pump while replacing the PS pump, maybe that prompted the leak? Doesn't seem likely, but replaced the water pump & belt. PS leak tuned out to be the PS cooler. It looked ok from the front, but the back was completely rusted out. Replaced with a junkyard unit I just happened to have on hand. Now, two weeks later, apparently the Chevy is leak free! I guess that leak had been PS all along. The success of the work and the novelty of having a leak free vehicle is what prompted me to tear into the CJ7.

On my CJ7, I've had a drip of trans fluid right where the bellhousing/adapter plate/transmission are all bolted together. I've suspected it was the front bearing retainer seal. So I tore into it, and when pulling the rear shaft, found the source of a small vibration that I noticed the last two times I drove it. I've never had a problem of eating joints on this Jeep, and I think this one has been in there since 2014, suspect I was just to stingy with the grease gun. I have some generic 1310s on hand, but ordered a Spicer since I'm not in a hurry. Got the Dana 300 out and decided to drain the fluid, pull the pan, get some pics of the minor grinding that was required to get the 4:1 gears in it. Then reseal the pan and clean it up. Got the trans out, and was glad to find I was nearly right. It wasn't the input retainer seal (replaced anyway), but the retainer itself where it bolts to the trans. Apparently it needed a little more sealant. Easy fix. After replacing the inner axle seals while installing an Ox locker in the front axle, and now this, I might actually have a leak free Jeep!

When I was younger, I climbed four high to pull parts off a flat fender. Got up there and it was a slat grill military.

On my CJ7, I initially installed a Warn M8000. It caused the front suspension to sag noticeably (about 1"). Rather than add mods to the suspension, I switched to a Warn SDP 6000. SDP is Short Drum Portable, meaning the drum for the cable is narrower than a regular winch. The winch was meant to be mounted to a cradle that was then mounted to a receiver hitch, front or rear. I mounted mine directly to the mount plate, which required drilling some holes. I also made an adapter plate to mount the included narrower fairlead to the standard mount. I also replaced the steel cable with synthetic line. I have measured weights somewhere, but end result was zero sag on the front suspension. Some years later, I replaced the SDP6000 with a Warn 9.0Rc. Same physical size as the SDP6000, but with 9000 rated pull. The included fairlead is full length to fit standard mounts, but with a smaller opening to match the drum width. SDP weighed 44 pounds (with relay box & syn line), 9.0Rc weighed just under 50, before replacing the steel hook & relay box. Downside is less cable (50 feet). I carry an extra length of synthetic line with finished steel thimble on each end, but have never needed it. I replaced the large steel hook that came with the winch with a Factor 55 Pro Link (lighter). I replaced the Warn relay box with a generic contactor (smaller & lighter), remotely mounted in the engine bay. https://www.warn.com/90rc-winch-71550 https://factor55.com/product/prolink/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XJXJMFV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which reminds me that I left out The Killer Angels by Michael Shaara (Battle of Gettysburg) Great book. "We're out of ammo. Fix bayonets and prepare to charge."

You didn't say what you liked, so this is a little of everything. I read these for entertainment. I actually listened to many of these as audiobooks (and mostly from Audible). In no particular order: Earth Abides by George R. Stewart Life of Pi by Yann Martel IQ84 by Haruki Murakami (I think Murakami is an acquired taste- not for everyone) Stealing the General: The Great Locomotive Chase and the First Medal of Honor by Russell S. Bonds (true story) John Dies at the End by David Wong (and his other books) Fuzzy Nation by John Scalzi (and his other works) With the Old Breed: At Peleliu and Okinawa by E.B. Sledge (true story) 14 by Peter Clines (and is other books) The Lost World by Arthur Conan Doyle Gates of Fire: An Epic Novel of the Battle of Thermopylae by Steven Pressfield (based on historical events) Island of the Lost: Shipwrecked at the Edge of the World by Joan Druett (true story) Children of Time by Adrian Tchaikovsky Artemis by John Weir (who wrote The Martian- both are good) Ikigai: The Japanese Secret to a Long and Happy Life by Hector Garcia & Francesc Miralles Journey to the Center of the Earth by Jules Verne Start With Why by Simon Sinek (Business & Leadership) Legacy by James W Kerr (Leadership) Undaunted Courage by Stephen E. Ambrose (Lewis & Clark expedition) Any of the original James Bond books by Ian Fleming (much better than you'd expect if you've only watched the movies) Cormac McCarthy (everything he has written- he has a different writing style- it's like watching a movie where you must pay attention at all times) Stephen King (everything he has written) Robert Heinlein (everything he wrote) Michael Crichton (everything he wrote)

I was cleaning the shop and found this old experiment. I'm sure most of us are familiar with the aftermarket cup holders that attach to the console over the parking brake handle cavity (on XJs). I took one, and started cutting/grinding with the intent to fit it where the shifter boot (manual trans) or shifter bezel (auto trans) goes. Pictures show as far as I got, next step would require grinding/cutting the edges of the console piece. I think it would actually work and look pretty good when done, although there would be a gap at the front and back, below the level of the console. My thought was to retain my auto trans column shifter, but add the center console, cover up the shifter hole, and have some cup holders. Same Idea would work with a mini console. I believe, somewhere here in CC, there is a thread about a blank cover, an OEM piece that goes in the that location. Rare part... or maybe it was a hallucination. Then I thought, a person with 3d printer skills could probably make a blank cover. Add a version with a large cup holder. Probably wouldn't be much demand, but probably not a big project either.

I've wondered if one could use a very tiny screw, screw it into the roll pin, then grab it with pliers and pull it out. But the roll pin is extremely small, I'm not sure if a small eyeglasses hinge screw would even work. I don't think drilling them out would work, and probably mar up the surrounding plastic. After driving the pin through the other side, I take a single edge razor blade and carefully trim away the plastic that is pushed out around the edges of the hole. Done carefully, it's barely noticeable.

Pic of the oem brass fitting on the front of the valve cover.

I have some experience with Jeep CJ and YJ hydraulic clutch pedal assemblies. No experience with XJ/MJ assemblies. But based off my experience, there should be a bracket that serves as a mount for the clutch master cylinder at the firewall, which also attaches to the pivot rod for the pedal. This bracket not only serves to mount the clutch master cylinder, but reinforces the pedal hanger assembly. I marked this bracket with a green "X". It's difficult to see, but it kind of looks like that bracket isn't attached to the pedal pivot rod? If one looks closely, you can see the bracket comes just above the pedal arm, and you can just barely make out a mounting hole, but it isn't attached to the rod, which is the nut just above it. If that bracket isn't attached to the pivot rod, then in theory, when pressing the clutch pedal, the firewall could be flexing away from the pressure. Likewise, the pedal assembly could be flexing away from the firewall. This combination could result in less movement of the clutch master cylinder pushrod, reducing it's travel and therefore affecting clutch disengagement. Possibly, the flexing could throw the angle of the pushrod off, resulting in seal failure at the clutch master cylinder. CaliCruse, could you confirm if that bracket is attached to the pedal pivot?

I've removed several of these. They were always a small roll pin. I removed them by using a small punch and driving them through the other side of the knob. It helps to support the lever with something and work carefully so as to not bend the lever. Yes, you end up with a hole on both sides of the knob. I've never seen one with an allen head screw. If there is another method, I've not heard of it.

I think the OP has a 4 cyl.

Before you posted this, I was wondering if your cb antenna CABLE might be part of the issue. I've read that you don't want to "coil" the extra cable length. The fact you had two antennas that seemed to have high SWR readings made me pause to consider the cable. With your friend's antenna, I am guessing you still used your cable?

I like the 4.0 engine, but not sure it would be an upgrade over the 3.6. I don't have any firsthand experience, the only JK I've driven had the 3.8. I do remember when I first heard of the JK getting the 3.8 V6, I thought, history is repeating itself. Does anyone know the history of the CJ-5 and the significance of 1966? Prior to that year, the CJ-5 was only available with a 4 cylinder. So many people were putting Buick V6s in them, that Jeep purchased the rights to the engine from GM, and started putting it in the CJ-5 from the factory. I read on another forum where a guy who was around back then said that Jeep engineers actually went around and looked at some of the swapped Jeeps to get info for what they had planned. The Buick V6 lasted until the AMC buyout and the 232-258 I6 appeared. My point? When is Jeep going to put a V8 in the Wrangler? They should take a pointer from history and buy the Gen III LS from GM and start putting it in the Wranglers... you know, like everyone else is.

8.24 in title. You might want to edit that to 8.25 or 8 1/4" for search purposes. I'm sure you've thought of this- 8.25 from XJ will need spring perch mods to fit an MJ. Sounds like you were planning that already with the SOA. MJ D44 is a bolt in. BUT, from a 5 speed it likely has 3.07 gears, not a good fit for bigger tires and/or trailer towing.

Just in case you ever wondered what it looked like.

True, it was supported by the frame. So they sell this stuff commercially?

My guess would be the clean spot on the shock, second pic.

That's amazing!