jpnjim

lol I guess that makes me the only idiot that takes it off and puts it back on by myself :) I usually pop the 4 corners off one at a time, lift/slide it back so the bottom sits on the top of the tires, then slide it across the tires till I can stand it up on end behind the truck. Then you can stand inside it, lift it straight up and put it where you want it.

I've been wanting to build this and a back yard trail over the summer, any good, recommended places on line to get this stuff? I'm a compete rc newb :)

I'd guess that the tie rod hole on the drag link is in a different location old vs new, and it needs the matching tie rod sleeve. I've put newer tie rod sets on older axles in full sets, but never tried it piecemeal. Either way, sounds like you solved it. Good luck with the father son project :yes:

Early tie rods are different from later tie rods I haven't measured them but it sounds like you have different generations of parts mixed together. I always keep the tie rods together as a set, either all old style, or all new style. The axle doesn't care as long as they are a set

I also wanted to say the 01' Clutch master worked very well with the stock 88' pedal and original 88' bracket (once new mounting holes were drilled) I only changed pedals to get the 01' Brake Master to function as it did in the 01' donor (brake pedal was high with 88' pedals)

I would assume your clutch grabbing low has to do with the change in the fulcrum by what appears to be over an inch further form the firewall. Even if you bend the pedal lever towards the seat you're not going to gain back the lose of travel for the piston in the clutch master cylinder. A full clutch depression will probably be equal to about half a stock setup. I am also using the 01' clutch master cylinder (with the 01' NV3550) so the 01' fulcrum point should be ok for the master, as long as the clutch lever attachment point is the same distance from the pivot (I believe it is, but I'll check) Either way, using the 88' pedal on the 01' bracket seems to only change the pedal height, clutch grabs low, but seems to have its full range, its just lower.

The steering wheel is actually really cool, I'm pretty sure 71' was the last year for it.. If you want to trade it for something, let me know. I think there's a black 3 spoke wheel & cap tucked away here someplace

Mine is a 71' Javelin AMX cowl hood, P-code 360/4bbl, 4spd 3.91's, twin grip w/go package. It's an April 71 car, so not early enough for the high compression heads. Originally it was Green on Green, but my little brother painted it Trans Am Red for me as his Senior project, in 1991. I swapped the Green interior out for a 71' Black Leather interior about the same time. It has 99k miles, the original 360 is tucked away at the moment, theres a +.030 forged piston 360 in there right now, decent General Kinetics cam, Torker, 750 Holley, Dual point Mallory & cheap headers. I've had it since 1990, last registered in 1995. It was my daily driver back then, but 27" tires & 3.91 gears with no overdrive got old. I plan to swap in a 3.55 rear, with a mild 401 so it will be a little more highway friendly. I just want to get it back on the road, my son's been asking me to for the last 4 years :yes: Details on yours?

When I was looking for my last XJ (13 years ago now, wow time flies...), the short rack was one way to tell the difference between an 97/98, and a 99+ (again, IIRC on the years). I don't believe 01's have their roof racks all the way over the drivers seat, but I'm open to the possibility of being wrong.

But it has the full roof rack, IIRC that means 1997 or 1998 (I think) I used to remember all this stuff, but it's fading fast.

For the Up Country Suspension Group, it lists the 3 skids, full size spare 225/75's tow hooks trans cooler shocks, rear sway delete and the LSD since that one had none of.that stuff, I wonder if it had the sway delete?!? Guy probably had a body shop buddy redecal the whole thing as an UpCountry Limited I guess?!

The Jeep and Eagle Product Information book (November 1996) does break down the 97' Cherokee Under What's new for 1997 it says New Country models feature body color bla bla bla It only lists SE, Sport and Country as being available weird

1997 Sales Consultant Product Guide lists New for 1997; Carryover from 1996 1996 Cherokee Classic model added 1997 Jeep Cherokee to be introduced mid-model year but even for the 1996's it doesn't list a limited, just the SE, Sport, Classic & Country There is a 1997 Cherokee section, but it just says "A revised edition of the famous Jeep Cherokee is due to arrive at dealerships in early 1997, bla bla bla watch for new releases in the first quarter of 1997.

nice set up, my 87' was the opposite, grey exterior with cloth & vinyl red (burgundy) interior. w/ power windows and locks, no hooks or overhead console though. There's just something cool about luxury with a 5spd :) Thanks, I was just curious, those Renix XJs are a dying breed, surprised any of them survived Cash for Clunkers. Good luck with it, I'm sure the parts from it will help keep other XJ and MJs on the road :yes:

a 90 5 spd Cherokee Laredo, that's pretty much the top of the Renix Cherokee food chain imho My first Jeep was an 87' 5 spd Laredo Cherokee, so I'm partial to that combo :) Color/options? (just wondering)

Nothing wrong with stuff sticking through the hood :yes: Plans for mine right now are to put together a 401 so I can pull a taller rear gear & make it more highway friendly..... but I have a flat hood stashed away so I can cut a hole for this some day :D (the one in the middle :) )

When I was in the back panel, there was an assembly VIN tag sticker on the body that matches everything else. I'm confused by the whole thing. On another note... I too wish I'd have kept my ZJ... I underestimated how nice the ride and comfort of it was until I got back into an XJ... Boy do I miss that ZJ. Rob VIN matches? ok then :) Any chance it was an early production model? I haven't dug out the 97' book yet, but being a transition year, who knows And as far as ZJs go.... I never really liked ours (Black 96' 4.0L), but it was the most rust free vehicle I ever owned. I have no idea why it was so immune to rust. When the trans went @90k miles, I gave it to a neighbor for his son (with a used, working trans in the back waiting to go in). He drove it for 6 months, then junked it when the 2nd trans went. Last time I ever saw it, he had shinned up the dulled black paint, cleaned up the 31" BFG AT's, and it looked better than it ever did the whole time I owned it :(

I went with an offset/offset muffler, turned on it's side, and let that do the 'over the axle' bend for me. Pipe ends up as tight to the crossmember as it does if it were bent, though the bend usually flattens out the tube a bit, so having it bent probably does allow slightly more axle clearance, but not by much: Also, to attach to the head pipe, tracing the 4 hole flange gasket to a piece of scrap steel gave me a new flange to weld to a scrap piece of 2.5" tubing. The cat is set back to work with a doubler (I ditched the doubler for something else) Other than the head pipe, everything else was straight 2.5" tubing. 'Someday' I'll make up a new head pipe, the crimped 'off the shelf' pipe there now chokes off the flow like a crazy straw tied into a knot :yes:

In case anyone decides to go down the road I did (98-01 XJ Booster/Master & Pedal Assemblies): ^^I haven't fixed/rebent the 88' clutch pedal to work properly with the 01' XJ pedal assembly master cylinder yet (It needs it to get the clutch pedal back up to the proper height off the floor) but here are a few comparison pics between the 01' XJ & 88' MJ pedal assemblies: unmodified assemblies 01'XJ on left-------88'MJ on right bracket mocked up to attach 01' XJ pedal assemblies into 88' dash (88'MJ on left now, 01'XJ on right): what happends when you put a 01' clutch pedal assembly in an MJ without moving the fuse box: There's no pic, but I made up a spacer, and swapped the 88' MJ clutch pedal onto the 01' XJ pedal bracket, brake & clutch now both work, without hitting the fuse box, but the clutch grabs too low, clutch pedal needs to be repositioned a bit higher.

X2!! besides, you know that Comanches, like all pack animals, should ONLY be owned in pairs (or more!) :yes:

I don't have a working radio to offer, but a question (since there seems to be some radio experts here) The middle radio & bottom equilizer in this picture were mounted together in a Jeep I once had: Obviously they are similar to the OEM radio's (like the non-cassette factory radio above them & the DNR you are looking for Red Rocker), so anyone know what this radio/eq set could have come out of originally? Someone once said they look like the set that originally came in Conquest TSi's, or something similar (Starions?) Anyone know? & sorry for the hi jack, maybe the bump to the top will get someone with the cassette player you're looking for to respond RR :)

And a few pics of the snow pig to keep the thread on topic :) Close up of each side of the "re-hot-glue-gunned-together" tailgate (much better than the 1/2" plywood-tailgate that was there) still need to add a chain loop to the drivers side for the hook: happily pushing some more of the gazzillian feet of snow we got this winter: patiently waiting next to the driveway for more snow to fall :yes: I still need to come up with some better tire & wheel solutions, and get the brakes to work more than just 'sometimes' (I added two 10 lb residual pressure valves, I just need to bleed them again, and get a less pourous master cylinder cover)

Thanks Jon, your Wagon is way too nice for that Proof of how nice your wagon is (these are the pics I saved when I looked at it a few years back) You REALLY need a build thread on it here :yes:

If only the UPS & Fed Ex drivers thought like that :agree: If I don't keep my driveway clear, it turns into the luge run from hell, & all the winter time goodies I need to keep everything running wouldn't get delivered here till spring

Did the sticker on the firewall match the dash VIN Rob? If it didn't, that would explain a lot.