jpnjim

Some LSD's are OK, I ran 4.56's, and a Power-Lok for a few years (w/open front) before swapping the LSD for a rear spool. The Power-Lok had been set up very 'tight' (previous owner had the axle under a drag car), and though the spool was an upgrade, it wasn't the night and day difference I was hoping for. When I finally put a lockright in the front axle, that was a much greater improvement than the change from Power Lok, to Spool was. FWIW, the Spool/Lockright combo only lasted a few months. My turning radius got so bad, I pulled the Spool for a full Detroit, first chance I got. (turning radius came right back with the Detroit in).

Looks like it'll go cheap: http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1853296705.html

He put it on Pirate as well: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=894936 I'm liking the little 5th wheel too. :yes:

x2 on this (mine are cheap aftermarket, and shake). I bet if someone were to drill out the bottom of the housing, and add enough ballast, it could help with the shaking/vibration.

The prep stuff is actually decent, I use the 'Marine Clean' for plastics, and it works great (especially good at cleaning the underhood coolant/washer fluid containers). POR-15 defiantly can be used without the prep stuff, but I will say when it fails to adhere to something, it usually comes off in sheets (like failed powdercoating). I've had one, or two sections of POR-15 fail on me, even after using the prep materials, so even that's not 100% fool proof. But either way, the paint is so expensive, compared to the prep materials, it's cheap insurance.

$#!& happens. And sure Mel is batsh!t crazy, His stuff probably wouldn't have been 1/2 as good if he was 'normal'. I'll take Mad Max, The Road Warrior, and Braveheart just the way they are, and crazy Mel along with them. :cheers:

Try turning the key forward for a few seconds first (into the 'run' position, to get the fuel pump up to pressure), then start. It works for my 98 XJ (sometimes i forget, and it takes 5-6 seconds). My 89' MJ is also a slow starter (5-6+ seconds), and the 'key forward first' trick does not work. Cleaning the CPS might help you. Tho it didn't help me, neither did a new cap & rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc (<--- it needed that stuff anyway, but didn't help with the cranking issue)

My '88 Pioneer came from the factory like just like that (but in maroon), and without remote mirrors, totally manual :nuts: . I only thought my panel was weird when I saw an XJ in the Junkyard that had the little chrome pieces. I've seen them both ways: My low optioned 'Grandpa' Pioneer came like this one, with the big chrome plates, but no diamonds, but my optioned out 87' XJ Laredo that had all the chrome stuff (less mirrors), did have the diamonds, so that led me to expect pimped out versions to have them. :dunno: Either way, I'm surprised they didn't add them when they attached the 'chrome magnet' (obviously new parts were added to this 154K mile MJ)

There was talk about making MJ specific corners, and even an MJ corner thread started by JCR themselves...... but there was an unrelated issue/complaint with another of their MJ products (rear bumper), and all their MJ products were dropped shortly after. Strange turn of events, but either way, it's a dead issue now.

ive got one too i think but i don't have time right now to post it. i found mine behind a door panel... if i remember correctly.or something to do with a door. I'd be interested in seeing that one too. :yes: :yes: :yes: I wonder if anyone has decoded the info on them yet, would be a great add-on to the registry, if guys with sheets posted them in their threads.

Side note, this: drives me nuts. WTF did Jeep cheap out on the material on the back of the seat. :dunno: :hmm: They went to all the trouble of color matching the back panel & rug, they they use Grey across the board on the seat back, no matter what the seat color. Yeah, that saved alot. :roll: Looks just as craptastic with my 89's Maroon interior.

:agree: Yeah, original Jeep paint from 22 years ago always has orange peel like that. This shot looks nice to me: The one with shiny crap all over the hoses, not so much. I find it funny that it has all the chrome accents (mirrors, tailgate latch, bumpers, grille, etc) but not the little chrome 'diamonds' that go behind the top part of the hockey stick armrests. :hmm: Also not a huge fan of these wheels, Some mint-perfect stock aluminum spokies would be perfect for this MJ. :yes:

Where did you find the build sheet? (under the rug, under the seat?). Care to scan it, and post it? (or scan it & email it?) I've had some Javelin build sheets, but don't think I've ever seen an MJ one. Thanks. :cheers:

Tend to agree. That said, XJ's have the same 5k tow rating and have an even shorter wheelbase. For the record the WJ has a 6500 lb tow rating and is not that much bigger than a XJ as far as wheelbase is concerned. I don't know what to make of it. If that confuses you, don't even look at what the LWB JK's are rated to tow :nuts: The minivan engine is a limiting factor, but I'd expect their wheelbase, track width, decent brakes (for a Jeep), and weight to bump that number up a bit (it doesn't). :dunno: Long story short, my guess is it comes down marketing, and where the vehicle fits in with it's niche group, and it's competition, than anything else. GC rated higher than Libby = perception that GC tows better, so if you're buying a tow rig, salesman can say GC > Libby. (if it's true, or not, result = more GC's sold). Though it doesn't completely explain the JK's joke of a tow rating, I guess no real competition = no need to push the LWB JK's ability to tow. :dunno:

To anyone reading this thread & looking (not mine) THIS looks to be a good deal :smart: http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/cto/1826048071.html

Both of the 4spd cars I've had came with 3.91's stock, & both had sorta low miles, since they're not the best cars on the highway. & Crossram? you mean one of these :yes: VVV I *almost* ran it on my 360, but looking into a street setup, I heard stories about leaning out the engine, and blowing the tops off of them. :eek: Yes, when you lift off the gas @ 130mph/6500rpm's, your engine experiences a lean condition. :D It's traumatizing enough lifting off the throttle @6500rpm's, when you can't upshift first (can you say engine braking?), but doing it, while worried about the top of the intake blasting through the fiberglass hood is more excitement that I was looking for. :rotfl2: not for sale tho, I underpaid for the X-ram, with the promise I'd never sell it, and I overpaid for the Ultra-Ram, because I always wanted one. :D

I absolutely hate the thought of buying up parts of a dead guy's collection. :( I'm sure he would have rathered see the cars go to someone who will use them, I can't get past the circumstance of it. Yeah, but the close ratio trans kills it. 1969, and later T-10's were all V-code close ratio boxes. V= 2.23, 1.77, 1.35 & 1:1 So 2.23 first x a 3.91 rear = an 8.7:1 first gear. :ack: To put that in perspective, it's the same as if you had a Jeep's 4:1 first gear, with a 2.18:1 rear end. :ack: :ack: Putting in 4.44's doesn't even help much, it's like swapping those 2.18's in your Jeep for 2.47's. :doh: So the car's don't really jump off the line, even with 4.44's, then the rest of the gears are so close together, it's shift-shift-shift, till you are in 4th, and looking for a 5th. With 3.91's, no overdrive, and 26" tall tires, my 71' is screaming at 3500rpm @ 70, redlined @ 5000rpm @ 100, and turning 6000rpms @ 120. Bringing it up to 120, then letting off the gas is like slamming on the brakes (there is ALOT of engine braking at 6000rpm's, with a closed throttle). So, it 3.91's, or 4.44's may sound great with the 4spd, but I don't think you'll ever hear a 5spd Jeep owner brag about how hard his rig pulls in first with 2.18 gears in his axles. AMC did use some wide ratio 4spds, in 1968, and earlier, but even those only had 2.42 (P-code)or 2.64 (T-code) first gears, and are almost impossible to find. My plan (71' 360/V-code 4spd/3.91 car) is to swap the build 360 for a mild 401, that can pull a taller first gear, then swap in a 3.15 rear so I can drive on the highway again. Another option would be to get a Tremec/Jeep bellhousing (from any of the T-176, or T-150 Jeep trans), and bolt up a wide ratio Ford Top Loader trans. But those are tougher & more $$ to find these days, and it kills the originality of the AMC. They did make wider ratio T-10's (2.88 first was common in some), but it's not an easy swap into the AMC/T-10 case.

Rubicon Express 5.5" coils gave me 6.25" of lift, and flexed pretty well.

Getting Married in Heaven? On their way to get married, a young Catholic couple was involved in a fatal car accident. The couple found themselves sitting outside the Pearly Gates waiting for St. Peter to process them into Heaven. While waiting, they began to wonder: could they possibly get married in Heaven? When St. Peter arrived, they asked him if they could get married in heaven. St. Peter said, 'I don't know. This is the first time anyone has asked. Let me go find out and he left. The couple sat and waited for an answer....for a couple of months. While they waited, they discussed the pros and cons. If they were allowed to get married in Heaven, should they get married, what with the eternal aspect of it all? What if it doesn't work? Are we stuck in Heaven together forever? Another month passed. St. Peter finally returned looking somewhat bedraggled. Yes, he informed the couple, you can get married in Heaven. Great! said the couple. But we were just wondering; what if things don't work out? Could we also get a divorce in Heaven? St. Peter, red-faced with anger, slammed his clipboard on the ground. What's wrong? asked the frightened couple. OH COME ON!!!' St. Peter shouted. It took me 3 months to find a priest up here! Do you have ANY idea how long it'll take to find a lawyer.

I came across the old thread. It's a little tougher to follow with some of the pics missing, but the thread is still there: http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sh ... p?t=247934

My 88's froze up from sitting in the driveway for a few years. Took some work to loosen it up, and I forgot all about it till this post. I eliminated it with the HO swap, but this thread will serve as a reminder to give the 89' a squirt, or two of lube next time I'm under the hood. :cheers: Was there a 'factory fix' for this, or were you just lubing/replacing the rusty bellcranks? This should be on a list of things to do for the new MJ owners: 1) pull your rug, and assess the rust damage 2) lube your bellcrank :yes:

Glad you've made *some* progress (hopefully the face to face meeting has a positive effect for you).

The recent Supreme Court ruling on the question of "if the 2nd Amendment applies to the states" (they determined it did) puts alot of these local laws, that SEEM to be in conflict with many of our Constitutional rights in question. If the states (and under them, local municipalities) have to comply with the Bill of Rights (and under the 14th Amendment, they do), I don't see how agents of the local municipalities (IE: code enforcement officers) could be exempt from that compliance. I am not saying any of this is cut and dry (far from it), but most of these code enforcement rules do conflict with rights recognized by the Bill of Rights.

I guess this is near New Bedford (not bad for you RI/Conn guys to get to). The guy has put up a CL ad every day for the last 3 days, so I guess he's eager to sell. :yes: http://southcoast.craigslist.org/cto/1821715007.html http://southcoast.craigslist.org/cto/1821957380.html http://southcoast.craigslist.org/cto/1824170417.html Looks like he already started work converting it to a 97+, and it's registered. So bring a starter, and go get this one before he scraps it.

Man, those Ruby wheels were MADE FOR MJ's. I love the 9'er wheels, and Ravine's, but the Rubicon's just make every MJ body line look that much better. :cheers: