jpnjim

It should not be 'that' stuck in there (I know you know that, just typing it out loud :D ). What parts are you trying to 'save' anyway? WJ's are all 3.55's, or 3.73's, with the 3.55's axles being the less desirable axle to most, so it can't be the gears you want (can it?). Since the housing is toast, you could try cutting the axle tube off (leaving the shaft sticking out). Then you ought to have enough room to set up some kind of a redneck hydrolic puller with a bottle jack, and a wedge welded to the side of the axleshaft. If you think you will be able to straighten the bent tube somehow (and were planning on re-using the housing), try to straighten it a little with the shaft in it, maybe that will take some of the load off it. If you just want a WJ 3.55 gears, I have a set in my scrap pile right now. ;)

Just had another thought on this, if you really are planning to build a tailgate, get it done before the trial and have some pics of it to show the judge. I'm guessing that even if the judge agrees with you, he is going to think twice about allowing 'kids' back there (how he will view you guys), thinking someone could eventually get hurt, or killed. If you have a secure gate in place, it might make the ruling you are looking for easier for him to make.

Build your case, find the exact law, and how it's written. See if it actually applies in this case (interpretations can vary, especially when dealing with a 74 year old fire truck). Find vintage pics of this, or similar fire trucks, on the job, filled with fire fighters. Original literature from the manufacturer stating "fits 5 in back", or whatever would be great (tho I'm sure tough to find). The rear passenger compartment is unconventional, but so is the rest of the vehicle, including the front seat. They did things different 3/4's of a century ago, unless there's a law specifically controlling/outlawing use of old equipment like this on the street (and I doubt there is), it should be grandfathered in, since it met the rules of it's day (way before seatbelt/restraint laws were even thought of). I'd also try to find a lawyer familiar with the courthouse you'll be dealing with to talk to.

I like that, even on a horrible cell phone pic, you can see how far out of level it is. :ack: And without positive force from a supercharger/turbo, that big intercooler is doing more harm than good, as a huge restriction to the incoming air. :doh:

:USAflag: Congratulations, and thank you. :cheers:

If your 88' is stock, your 5spd is a Peugeot BA 10-5. I've had relatively good luck with them, but they aren't the strongest 5spd Jeep ever used. If you're doing an engine swap, might try to pick up a later 5spd (AX-15, or NV3550) at the same time.

We can wait. Thanks for your service. :cheers:

I REALLY would like one of these. :yes: Mine would be a camper, in dark blue, like a mini-SWAT truck

:yes: :cheers: Thanks for signing up, and giving us a shot. :thumbsup: + 1 vote for rear corner guards/tail light close outs-blanks if those are on the list of possibilities.

Kaiser was still running things when I was born. :ack: (what is that, 6 Jeep owners ago :doh: )

Well, it didn't take long for people to start selling the new repops for NOS. :( $40 auction, BIN for $75: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-WAG ... ccessories JEEP WAGONEER CHEROKEE EMBLEM NOS 79-85 Difference between NOS and Repops: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CJ-emble ... 53e60ce3db I like the repops, but not when someone Ebay's them as NOS.

The Skyjacker subframe is actually decent, it's strong, and allows longer arms than regular drop brackets. More like mid length arms vs short, or long arms. The Skyjacker arms themselves aren't so great, but some have adapted other arms to fit the Skyjacker subframe. If you got the subframe cheap enough, and were able to make custom arms to fit, I think it's a pretty decent setup. If you were going to buy the whole setup new ($$$!), IMO, no way is it worth the money.

Adjustable uppers help you dial in your pinion angle. Adjustable lower arms are used to set the wheelbase (bring the tire back, closer to the center of the wheel well), then you lengthen the uppers for the best pinion angle/caster compromise. Keep in mind though, all the length you add to your lowers, to re-center the tire in the wheel at the new ride height is going to do it's best to jam your tire into the ft of the wheel well as the suspension fully compresses. (watch your ft diff to frame-side-trac-bar-bracket clearance too, with the lowers set too long you can smack the cover off some brackets). That's one of the reasons long arms are better at 6". MUCH less wheelbase change as the suspension cycles through it's travel.

It's probably an old link to a thread that was moved, or deleted. I can't see it either, I was just teasing Jim.

I clicked on the link and received a message saying I was not authorized to view that topic. What gives? It's an MJ for sale thread. New CC policy is to lock you out of any for MJ for sale ads for the first two weeks to give the rest of the guys a fighting chance. ;) :wavey:

On Pirate: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=962620

Wow, not having the Jeep badge there changes the look WAY more than I thought it would. :thumbsup: Nice work.

The rear is decent, since it's 31 spline, with big bearing ends, but they don't mention if the center section has a factory Nodular pumpkin or not. The non-'N' pumpkins break pretty easy. The front is great, for a Bronco. I've seen people put them in XJ/MJ's, but they're narrower than our axle (Waggy fts would be the same width as ours), low pinion (like Waggy's), and the factory shafts had small 260 U-joints (auction does not mention any upgraded ft shafts). No trying to knock the guy, but you could do better (especially for $4875 + shipping :ack: )

MJ axle would be better than the above, but they are out there. BTW, Javelin/Pacer M20 = V8 only Ambo/Mat/Rebel M20 = L6 & V8

That's my stash of low mileage, 40 year old, no longer being made, from an extinct auto manufacturer axles. Sorry Mike, but I'm keeping those. (surprised you didn't notice the stack of AMC V8's behind the XJ 44 ;) ) <---- no 390's tho. :wavey:

Mike, that is a good place to measure to compare different axles you already have, but most of the axle widths you are comparing your axle to are measured from WMS (Wheel Mounting Surface) to WMS. So when I say it's 60" wide, I mean 60" from WMS to WMS: MJ D44: XJ D44: AMC Javelin M20's:

Peanut brittle, natural copper roofing, and cat gut tennis rackets, with cold pizza on a hot summer day. Inside out knickers on a mannequin head, in an open field. Tell tale response to obvious wayward carpet gnomes. Wednesday morning bagel on a leaky porch. Amazingly dry case of zero-era post traumatic double down wet noodle algorithm immunity. All Comanche's have 60" wide rear axles. Whipple cracking mad dog radial tire bending hygiene reducer. Creepy tonsil androgenic whisper tears. Mike, one of those statements is important to the thought process of what width rear axle to run in a Comanche. Ignore the rest.

There's enough of a gap between the bed, and the tailgate on my MJ to fit a thin flatblade screwdriver, and push the latch back on each side (one at a time), and open it.

Unless you find a MJ-20 with blown up gears (and see what replacements cost), or find a 60" wide automotive 20 with 2.87's. If the gears are 4.10's grab them (I tossed the last 4.10 CJ-20 I had, and regret dumping the gear set).

That sounds like a CJ rear Mike, teltale sign would be the 5 on 5.5" axleshafts. You *could* retube it, but most people would probably keep looking for an MJ-20. Is it 4.10 geared? The gears are worth keeping.