jpnjim

this site: http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/F ... Rates.html lists Bosch 0-280-150-917 as: 18.25 LBS/HR 191.8 CC/MIN 138 GRAMS 43.5 PSI 3 BAR Not exactly as listed, but the above link also says: "This list is only a guide to help with the selections of fuel injectors, So far it has been very reliable and the flow rates seem to be very close to what we find when fuel Injectors are cleaned and tested. However we are not the original creator of all of these flow rates and have found a few that needed to be adjusted to be more accurate Please let us know if you find any discrepancy with any purticular Injector number and we will do a flow test and change any information found to not be reliable or true." This site also shows the 280-150-917's as 18.25lb/191.8cc injectors: http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/InjectorRatesBosch.html Still looking.........

Awesome, thanks. :cheers: I'm searching the PN now, so far it looks looks like the turbo guys use them, a good sign I guess. :D

The flow sheet that came with these listed them as 210cc @ 43.5psi, High Impedance. number on the body is 280 150 917

I got these from a trusted Injector supplier, through Ebay. The listing was for "87-95 4.0L upgrade injectors", with a pic of orange head injectors like this: They came very quickly, and were packaged nicely. but they are grey tops, not orange: I'll email the seller a question on this ASAP (used gf's ebay acct, waiting for her to get back), but in the mean time, can anyone ID these by their color? They are Bosch injectors according to the auction, but since it doesn't list them as Ford injectors, it's possible they are Chrysler Neon's, or something else. My understanding is the Grey Fords would not be an upgrade over any 4.0L injector. Ford injector list on NAXJA: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php ... stcount=59 Anyone? I'm hoping for a little better spray pattern + ditching the original leak prone 2-piece injectors on my stock 89' Renix 4.0L. Thanks.

The only thing not to like about this cover is the fill hole is way too high. I have a rear cover like this, and a Rough Stuff ft cover, I don't think I'll ever break either, but the high fill hole on a low pinion axle means figuring out where the level actually should be. (use your finger as a dipstick)

You can ask them what you "Ejection Fraction" is, that number tells how efficiently your heart is pumping. Good indicator if any damage was done (number comes up later as your heart heals). Since they were in there with scopes when they did your stints, they should also be able to tell you if they saw any scarring. Any idea why you had so much blockage? Age, diet, weight, genes? Either way, good luck! (I went into cardiac arrest for not reason almost 4 years ago)

Congratulations Don! :thumbsup:

Ah, that's one hell of a birthday party. Hope you're feeling better. Are you going to cardiac rehab?

It's different from an LSD because of how quickly it can engage, and change driving characteristics. It's not as bad with an automatic, but just lifting off the gas with a MT can get the locker to react. learn how it reacts in turns when you hit, and lift off the gas. Short wheelbase manual trans in snow/ice are the worst, short of spinning out, the worst is instant, unexpected, throttle controlled lane changes :eek: With an MJ's wheelbase, and an auto, you'll probably do fine, just remember how evil they can get when the snow flies.

Thanks, and good luck! :cheers: If you get a lockright, don't forget it's back there. Learn how it locks and unlocks with your gas pedal, steering correction, etc. It gets way more sensitive in low/no traction conditions. The longer the wheelbase, the less likely it is to spin you out, but all bets are off in the ice. :yes:

Weird that they would build it for free. Can only assume this is so they can get a pattern to build more. Why wouldn't they just dig out their own engineering plans on the old ones?

Its tough explaining to some people why I drive a 22 year old Jeep pickup truck to work every day. Guess I should stop trying to explain. :cheers:

Depends what you want it for. You can daily drive everything from a tight LSD to a Detroit, to a Lock Right, to a Spool, depending on where/how you drive, and what you want a locker for.

I had the opposite problem, years ago Jeep Forum wouldn't register me with my Yahoo mail account (I don't know if they still have that policy). Oh well, joining there would've just meant less time to hang out here. :cheers: :wrench:

RIP :(

:cheers: :thumbsup:

Grandpa is #1 & #3 Trail Truck is #2 & #4 (poll wouldn't let me vote)

I saw your build thread and wanted thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=31908 viewtopic.php?f=25&t=31848&p=317418#p317418 Your cab corners don't look that bad: I'd start cutting, before I decided if the bed has to come off or not. You'll know soon enough. Did you pick out rockers yet? Every aftermarket rocker I have seen has been crap, nothing like the factory ones, Factory NOS Rocker: Though it seems like the remaining stock of those got crushed a few years back during one of the Chrysler mergers. :( I replaced my XJ rockers with aftermarket crap, they did not taper in depth from front to back like factory, and they didn't have the little bend to go behind the fender in front. BTW, if anyone has seen GOOD aftermarket MJ rockers, feel free to :thwak: :thwak: :thwak: me, as long as you post a link + picture. If all you get is crap aftermarket rockers, you might be better off piecing them in, leaving as much 'good' original rocker in place as possible. Same with the cab corners, maybe someone with a sheet metal brake can remake the bad section for you. :cheers:

I saw those myself, but didn't feel right bidding up the price on something cut off an MJ that could have been saved. :(

Where are you getting corners, and how much do you 'need' to replace? Here's my cab corner thread: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21437 You could try doing it without removing the bed: But, unless you are a bodywork ninja (I am not), plan on more work, and a worse result. You'd also have to choose between exposed welds, or try to blend bondo with almost no room to work. I cheated a little, and hid my vertical welds between the cab & bed (no blending needed), and most of the horizontal weld behind the side vent trim: so no bondo (a few inches of ground down weld doesn't bother me): I always try to give myself as much room as possible when doing something like this. Good luck!

It's hard to tell how it's bent in the pic, but heat is your friend with stuff like this. If it's not bad, MAPP Gas & a BFH might do the trick, or if it's extreme, an oxy acetylene set, patience, and/or something to pull-twist it back into shape.

Yep, just figure out which 5 lug Ford/Chrysler/AMC wheels will fit baby moons, and you have your wheels. (double check ID of center hole).

XJ/MJ NP231 to D300 swap requires a shorter ft driveshaft, & longer rear. D300 yokes exchange with the 231 ft (& D30/D44's), so you could keep the ft double cardan, using the 231's yoke, but the XJ/MJ ft shaft will be too long. Coincidence, some FSJ shafts (incl V8/T18 ft driveshaft) are the exact right length for an XJ/MJ with a MT/D300 (or Atlas), & HP30. So you can use all Jeep parts, if you plan on keeping the 1310 joints.

Lol, Thanks. :D :D

I run 35x12.50s on 15x8 wheels with 4" BS on a HP30, CAD delete, Spicer 5-760x joints and an Aussie locker. On average I go through 4 or 5 unit bearings per year on top of a pair of u joints and two axle shafts. The u joints are the same as a Dana 44 unless you want to spend major $$$ on CTM ones. Lower ball joints don't last very long either, even Moog ones; uppers seem to do fine, though. A friend of mine runs pretty much the same setup without the locker and he went through 3 sets of spider gears in a year. 33s on a HP30 are okay, 35 is pushing the limit. I was going to upgrade to a HP44, but that won't solve my u joint problem, so a D60 is in the future. Will have to up tire size just to keep the same ground clearance, but have not decided yet on what size. Easiest to find rear to match would be a 14 bolt, but then I'd have to shave that boat anchor. That's alot of broken parts. My trail MJ has been down for some years now, but even when I was wheeling nearly every weekend, I wasn't going through parts like that. The Q78's on my MJ now never made it much past the end of the driveway (so they obviously don't count), but it's been wheeled hard on 33" Bias TSL's (34 tall, and weigh more than my old 35's), and 33 & 35" MT radials, always on heavy @ssed steel wheels. That's with the same axle combo since 1998, starting out as open/Powerlock 30/60 combo with 4.56's (trying to not kill the 30 on 35's), then open/Spool (with Moser rear shafts) , Lockright/Spool, and finally Lockright/Detroit (with Alloy USA fts). I've replaced ball joints (mostly lowers), and unit bearings when they got loose, but nothing like 4-5 bearings a season. The difference might be location/trails, but I've never been accused of wheeling with a light foot. :D