jpnjim

1995 is a Chrysler steering column + airbag Jeep. Just throwing that in there, if you end up swapping *everything*, that would also include dropping the GM column, and adding an airbag (not necessarily a functioning one, that would be up to you). If you do go with the airbag, take a look at how they redesigned the seat brackets. Seems the improved seat mount may have been to brace against the airbag going off. OBD I swap, good: improved ability to diagnose simplicity more modern electronics/vehicle electrical system wider range of availability for replacement & junkyard parts in the future (91-95 vs 87-90) you don't have to mess around with custom parts (like an HO --> Renix TPS) Eliminates dreaded Renix C101 connector OBD I swap, bad: You have to pull the dash apart, change gauges, and likely 100 other small items you might not have planned on (esp with 1994 & 1995 donors). Voltage regulator will become part of your ECM (= if it goes, you have to replace ECM, or try to rig up an external regulator) There will have to be some XJ to MJ adaption of the wiring harness (unless you can come up with a 91-92 MJ harness). Adding splices/connections for the above could = bootiefab wiring issues down the line. There's more stuff, but that's a good start. :wrench:

If you are not afraid of an extra inch of wheelbase, you could just move the rear axle backwards an inch, or so. Drill the spring perch 1" forward of the center hole, drill a matching hole in the U-bolt plate for the back of the center pin to poke through, and bolt the axle in 1" rearward. When I shortened a driveshaft for my first 2wd to 4wd swap, I was short about an inch (I guestimated, before the T-case swap). So I moved the D35 forward an inch from stock, so it would work. A year later I swapped in a D60 (much longer pinion length), and moved the 60 1" back from stock, so the same drive shaft worked with both the D35 & a D60.

I flat towed a Ford minivan ~30 miles, with two passengers (one next to me, and one under the camper shell out back, since he was afraid to sit in HIS towed vehicle :???: ). 89' 4.0L/4spd w/ 31's & 3.07's :ack: Friend was in need, but it wasn't much fun.

:rotf:

Not mine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-JEEP ... ccessories 2 days left, at $51

Since it's a cow pattern, they should've used......

I had a heated garage with my first apartment, then stupidly bought a house without one. :doh: I'm now on year 16 without a garage. :wall: I just went through this thread, and realized I didn't post any rear bumper pics. Like EVERYTHING else done to this Jeep, I got it to about 90%, then had more important things come up. :ack: Mostly just have to wire the winch, weld on the bumper ends, and add a brace underneath. Started here: chop chop plus rest of bumper build thread here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18919

Thank you. :cheers: I hope to have many updates this year, but it's hibernating for the moment:

To the OP (I know you know the story Rob ;) ) Someone complained publicly (here) that the receiver tube used on their rear bumpers was too thin, and had gave a sloppy fit to whatever hitch you slid inside it. Seemed like a legitimate complaint to me, but it escalated. It's entirely possible that a feeling or two may have been somewhat injured, since next thing you know, no more Comanche bumpers, or sliders from them. I was actually amazed at the grown up, adult way it was handled by the posters here. I've seen smaller issues turned into full blown personal battles on boards. :cheers: All that said, I never really understood why the thinner receiver tubes were being used, :hmm: but it's a non issue for MJ owners either way now.

Linking the rear vs SOA: Links +'s: no wheel hop (if built right) easy to adjust height (if using common springs) extra flex (maybe) you don't have to rebuild/replace leafs every few years from overflexing them you could chop the frame off behind the axle if you wanted to easy to upgrade to coil overs Link -'s cost possible load capacity possible stability adds complexity more stuff to break Leafs +'s: stability biggest factor for me, I like the 'type' of stability I get with ft coils/rear leafs. Hard to explain, but I am more comfortable wheeling when the body angle tends to follow the (more stable) rear axle's angle. Cheap (SOA can be just about free) Flexy even though the leafs tend to resist flexing more than the ft coils, and force the coils to do more of the work, SOA MJ leafs flex like crazy when you get it twisted up. I almost never lift a rear tire. Leaf -'s When really working MJ leafs, expect them to go flat. I used to carry the kitchen sink when wheeling (since there's room), but after rebuilding the packs every year, or so, I started to travel lighter, and leave the extra's back at camp. Wheelhop, especially when SOA. SOA on flexy springs = wheelhop if you get on it too much. I've only had it hurt me a few times, full throttle in deep stick mud can give you problems. Tho most of the time it hasn't been an issue for me. Leafs can break too Worse break over angle than links

That's what happens when a large company buys them out (Omix). Took the words right out of my mouth. The founder of Alloy USA (Ron) went here: http://www.tenfactory.com/ I bought my Alloy USA shafts because of his help & posts on JU & Pirate. He was always there for tech, and even the tough questions when Alloy USA ran into problems. Then 10 Factory warranted the old Alloy USA shafts after the change. If I was going to get new shafts, Ten Factory would be my first choice (tho I honestly don't know if they carry this TJ/XJ 44 shaft).

I'll be glad if they can come back as before (feels weird even typing that), but I hope it's not as the 'Extreme' line of some big, out of touch manufacturer. Thanks for the update.

I'm pretty sure it goes on the tailgate. Be nice if they'd make a Metric Ton one to go next to it. :yes:

I always considered the Hummer as a wider, (much) more heavy duty version of the M151 MUTTs. Right, or wrong, my unsubstantiated thoughts are: The military decided it's universal 'Jeeps' should be IFS/IRS. They wrote the spec, and Ford built the M151 MUTT (AM General did too). MUTTs started rolling over more than the old solid axle Jeep did (and killing troops). Military they asked for a suspension revision. They still kept rolling over, Military still didn't want to give up on IFS/IRS, so they spec'd a MUTT that's 30" wider. AM General built the best one (HMMWV), and got the contract.

mvusse is right, except for the part about GM buying AM General. The way it was presented on the news, it seemed like they bought AM G, but what GM bought was exclusive rights to sell civilian Hummers, and market the name with their own products (H2 H3, etc). GM then doubled the price (and then some) of the H1, before killing it for lack of sales. :doh: Looks like in the end they just wanted the Hummer name for credibility to market their own products. I don't know if Jeep ever tried to work a deal with AM General for the Hummer name, but I doubt it, since Jeep already has market credibility.

Wow. Seems like they've had a lucky horse shoe up their @sses for the last 15 years or so, I guess they got too big?!? Watching them go from the little guys, with a 1/4 page ad in the back of 4wd & SU, to a Jeep Powerhouse has been a nice ride, hopefully this is just a bump in the road.

Brand new chromed plastic >>>>> vintage used chrome plastic. :D I have an NOS one bought when they were still cheap (~$10). They've gone up so high now, I didn't want to use it. I might have to grab one of these Omix badges for each Jeep in the yard. :yes:

Winnnah! :thumbsup: :cheers: :thumbsup: Very Nice Find :yes:

x 2 :ack:

Nope. Trac Bars could be considered optional in some leaf spring setups, like YJ's, Big Fords, and I think Waggy's got them too. Coil spring Jeep front ends need the track bar (if you want to steer anyway).

Wait, lets clarify...the bolt on mounts are different but you will just bolt your stock ones on. Yes Splitting hairs, but I disagree that the 96-99 block is best. In terms of mileage & wear (with decent 91-95's all but gone from junkyards), you're probably right. And the 96+ block does have harshness/noise/vibration refinements, like the main bearing girdle, but the killer for me is the 96+ pistons. They got shorter shirts, and the dreaded diesel noise got so much worse with these short pistons rocking in the block. I've even heard of the rocking, and wear leading to broken skirts. Our 96' has sounded like a diesel since the 40-50k mile mark. My 98' with 77k miles isn't horrible yet, but the noise is there. Also the 96+'s got a smaller cam vs the 87-95's (for good, or bad depending on your perspective) Again, splitting hairs, but I'll take a 91-95 over the rest. :thumbsup:

I couldn't find the original pic, so I snapped a new one. ---------------------------------- 30 Spline Dana Shaft ---------------------------- vs --------------------------- 23 Spline Dana Shaft I purposely did not show the neck down after the 23sp shaft, since I do not believe the 23sp D70's drop off as steeply as the D60's. It looks like the 1.5" axle is closer to the camera, it's not, it's just that it's so much bigger than the 1.31" 30 spline shaft.

Don't forget the accessory drive assemblies on the front will also be different, since XJ/MJ's use an offset, small, engine fan.

I put a YJ 4.0L into an MJ, and the motor mount brackets were different (brackets between the engine, and the mount). The YJ's offset the engine to one side (drivers/passengers, I forget now), and the MJ mounts offset the engine to the opposite side. I don't know about ZJ 4.0L's, but def check first. I guess you already know the electronics/head & manifolds are different from a Renix to a HO engine.

Our 96' ZJ had death wobble, ball joints were OK, trac bar & TRE's seemed marginal. Ended up replacing all the steering TRE's (one at a time, worst to best), and the trac bar, DW minimized, but would still rear it's ugly head from time to time. Everything checked out, only had a slight lift (2") on factory TJ 30's, and I was :hmm: . Then I thought of the factory windowed ZJ control arm bushings (they looked fine). Replaced the LCA's with aftermarket arms that I had laying around (solid bushings), and the DW never came back.