jpnjim

$400 for a winch bumper is pretty cheap, but the bumper is kinda basic. No personal experience with the manufacturer, but the prices do seem good ($25 to add a receiver, etc). Attachment points go back pretty far: and you could always add frame plates if you wanted more. Though I don't see an option for him to space the brackets out for weld on frame plates.

I think they are reproducing these decals for AMC cars, I never compared the two, but I'm sure they are different, Tho if someone can reproduce the AMC type, I don't see why some enterprising sticker guy couldn't scan, and reproduce ours. :D Of course either the decal maker, or the buyer would have to have a way to add the VIN and Date info. (I believe on the AMC versions they ask for a pic of your door tag, and the decal maker adds it in). edit: Guess I should've looked up couple posts first. :thumbsup:

There are amplifiers that can take speaker line in, tho the ones I've seen/had were usually the off brand, questionable quality type. A line converter + a quality amp is best (unless you want to send the stock radio out to be modded for RCA outs, I'm sure it's $$$) but just throwing it out there, depending on how high quality of sound you are looking for that there could be a simpler (tho maybe crappier) option. The other thing is some factory stereo's came with factory inline Amps (our 96' ZJ did). Tho I do not know if any of the single DIN radio's, like stock Comanche's ever had factory amps attached.

Only problem with a 242 is there's a set of spider gears inside the T-case. So it's essentially a third open differential in the t-case (that's how it allows full time use). Seems to be the most durable of the full time Jeep T-cases, since there's no fluid coupling, clutches, or other device to wear out. But keep in mind, just like an open rear axle, one tire with zero traction can stop the vehicle. A 96' ZJ with a 242 has been 'her' daily driver since 1999. winter months/crappy weather she leaves it in FT 4wd if there's any snow/ice on the ground. I can remember her getting stuck, pulling out of a parking spot. I hopped out to see a single rear tire flailing away, and the other 3 just staying still. I complained that she wasn't in 4wd, but she was, full time 4wd. She moved the lever back one position, and the Jeep walked right out of the spot. Same thing happened another time on an icy onramp, in stop & go traffic (ice melts off the stopped cars, then freezes on the road). She hit the gas to go, one tire flailed away, and we didn't move till she put it in PT 4wd. Just a heads up, still a great T-case for a daily driver, but when conditions get really dicey, the tire with the least amount of traction is going to get the most torque.

I know that last quote was from the M715 zone, but it is misleading. Just to clarify, 23 spline D70's were the standard HD rear axle of the day when a D60 was too wimpy for the application. The 23splines were coarse spline shafts, with a diameter of 1.5". That's the equivalent diameter of todays 1.5" diameter 35 (fine) spline shafts. Yes, 1.5" diameter 35 fine splines are stronger than 1.5" diameter 23 coarse splines, but 1.5" diameter 23 (coarse) spline shafts are far superior to anything else available in the 1960's ('real' HD trucks aside). Dana upgraded to 1.5" fine 35 spline shafts around 1970. Comparing a D70's 1.5" 23 spline shaft to a FF D60's 1.31" 30 spline shaft is a joke. I have a pic of a 23sp vs 30sp shaft somewhere, I'll try to scan it and post it. My 1969 D60 was a factory hybrid of sorts (automotive Hemi & 440 4spd applications), and originally came with D70 size 23 spline rear shafts. They were unbreakable in my application, but when I swapped the Power Lock for a spool, I had to go with 35 spline shafts. Same diameter, even used the same inner seals tho the older shafts did neck down below the spline (replacements were custom Mosers, and had no neck down). I won't argue that the M715's ft D60 has many weak links (30 spline shafts, closed knuckles that sometimes separate, and leave the wheel and tire laying on the ground, crazy wheel bolt pattern, etc) but the rear D70 is far from 'weak', as that M715 zone poster stated.

Stock Jeeps, judged as they are stock? That's tough for me, since I would love to have just about ANY vintage stock Jeep to play with. Willy's Wagon with power nothing, a flat head 4, and 5.38's? Yep, I'd love one. Might even daily drive it in nice weather. :D A Pink 2wd Surrey? Not completely my style, but it's a flatty, so I bet I could find a way to appreciate it for what it is. For stock vintage Jeeps, the only thing that comes to mind for the 'bad' list would be CJ10a Tugger. Kinda lousy, since I'd LOVE to have one, but not if I had to keep it stock. (2wd, with a transfer case locked in low, and thousands of pounds of ballast weight attached). A V6 XJ 'might' make the bad list too, but just because there are so many better versions of XJ's to be had. Without better XJ's to compare them to, I'd rate the 84-86 XJ's pretty high on the 'good' Jeep list. You could criticize 2wd Mail Jeeps, but then I think how sad the Jeep world would be without the DJ's big swing out rear door, and its huge JEEP stamping. :yes: That gives them a pass. Early FSJ pickups (non-M715's)? The front suspension & front axles were bad, as were the frames, but a Rhino Grille FSJ with the small back window, and thrift side bed is one of the best looking Jeeps ever. Pass. FC's? Ever see an FC170 fire truck, or a 4 door military FC? How about one of the Van body Military FC's? Pure awesomeness. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Even a high hood CJ3b is cool in my book. :chillin: There's less to love about some new Jeeps, but WJ's are the last of the luxo solid axle Jeeps, so those don't make the list. The next generation brought Hemi power to Jeeps, so that gets it a partial pass. I stopped paying attention after that, so that's the best I can do. Liberty? Yeah, that would have to make my list for two reasons: 1) it's the first of the modern IFS Jeeps that ushered in what we have now 2) after all these years it still hasn't grown on me. Commanders make my list (trying to look like something they are not, and their wheel wells are way too small) even though I'd think about getting one 'someday', when they're just dirt cheap old luxury vehicles. Compass and Patriot? I'd probably put the Compass on the list, but again I would drive one if cheap enough. So(in no order): CJ10a Libby Commander Compass maybe V6 XJ's I'm 1/2 way to ten, but I already used up my 3 from 02-11. Any suggestions?

Shortbed + full width toolbox doesn't leave much room for payload, that's the reason I don't have a toolbox in either SWB right now. Both have tonneau covers to keep prying eyes away, and the trail truck has ammo cans in the dead space next to each wheel well.

True, but how much of that stuff will still be working in 40-45 years? Good luck fixing a Power Wagon in 2054 when a simple wiring harness fire totals the vehicle (I'd guess that 500 mile long wiring harness won't still be on anyone's shelf 43 years from now). Meanwhile, a push start, and a single functioning power wire is all an M715 needs to run. (a couple more if you want the alternator to work) Even by modern standards simple can be > complicated.

'Fair' is subjective, so if that's how you see it, then you are right. Personally I don't want everything I drive to have 10 airbags, 25 cupholders, crumple zones, GPS, and the hundred other things modern vehicles are judged on. By that standard EVERYTHING old is bad. A 1969 GTO braked, handled & even accelerated slower, while riding worse than the 04-06 GTO's. It was also noisier, got horrible gas mileage, spewed emissions, and had minimal safety standards. In a black and white world where only modern standards mattered, except for a few museum pieces, all 69 GTO's would all have been crushed for raw materials to make 2011 Hyundais, Nissans and Kias. Since we have surpassed almost every speed and power standard set in the 1960's, do you think Musclecars can now be considered: ? Modern times, modern standards.

I disagree with using current standards to condemn old Jeeps based on their old equipment, especially when that equipment was state of the art for it's generation. Yep, 4 wheel drum brakes were horrible, but just about everything in the 1960's had 4 wheel drums. Yep, the M715's closed knuckle drum brake Dana 60 had small axleshafts, and pales in comparison to an open knuckle 35spline HP Ford D60 made 10 years later. Not a fair comparison since that axle did not exist in 1967. Every flatfender was underpowered, with horrible brakes, and weak axles too, so I guess #1 on the 'bad Jeep' list should be "All Flatty's" #2 should be the Willys Wagons, since those were also underpowered, with horrible axles, and brakes too. See where this is going, old Jeeps = horrible drum brakes, weak axles, and underpowered (except for some of the later V6 & V8 versions). Yep, an inferior product, by current standards. So, which car is 'better'? A 1932 Supercharged Duesenberg J, or a V8 Caddy STS? Is it the smooth, great handling car that can do 150mph with a latte in one hand, and one finger on the wheel, or the bumpy, loud, hard to maintain, uber expensive one that could do 150mph in 1932?

I can understand their reasoning, and the engine was crap. But M715's used the most heavy duty axles of the day. Also, you can swap a better drivetrain into an M715 to make it as good as any heavy duty truck in the world, but you can't swap ANYTHING to a modern F350, Dodge Ram, or Silverado to make it as bad @ss as an M715.

Crappy list. M715's, FC150/170's all CJ7's, pre 71 FSJ's, Tomb Raider TJ, Woody & Waggy XJ's yeah, sure those Jeeps suck. :nuts:

Eagle, not sure it's worth adding to your manuscript, but AMC Eagle Rotors are also the same as 84-89 XJ/YJ/MJ's. The Eagle unitbearings are almost the same too, but the inner casting is different/slimmer. I would buy up factory AMC Eagle rotors when I could find them (cheap) at AMC shows. Factory rotors were beefy, and high quality, compared to the aftermarket stuff.

:cheers:

Funny that the 8.25" has had problems, since they raised prices, instead of using their normal $199.00 introductory pricing when they released it. I'm sure there's no connection between the price & whatever the defect is, but the raised price was the one thing that kept me from buying one. I guess they did me a favor. Goodluck finding a resolution with yours, hopefully they do the right thing. (FWIW I posted my questions to the Pirate 4x4 $199 Aussie thread, and always received prompt PM's back from them, if that helps)

With almost straight up and down rake, and no trail, I bet a tankslapper on this thing would make an die hard Jeeper used to plain old deathwobble sh_t his pants. :eek: :ack: :eek:

The icing on the cake is those horrible 1980's wheels on the back. I can deal with duct tape, booger welds, exposed framerails, 10 mile long steering arms, tractor looks, with out of place motorcycle parts right next to Jeep parts, but those wheels are crossing the line. :yes: :nuts:

stuff I forgot: mid 90's YJ knuckles/rotors/calipers/bearings (WJ stuff waiting to go on) 2001 XJ proportioning valve/brake lines (rear extended)/sway bar/radiator 1994 YJ D30 open carrier (with lock right & aftermarket 4.56's) 1967 OEM Dodge D60 4.56 rear gear set (w/ Detroit) 1998 ZJ pitman arm Mopar spring perches XJ leafs mingled in (for now) 2001 XJ drivers side floor. 1985 J20 tailgate DIY XJ ft bumper as rear

1988 MJ: 1992' YJ (Renegade) 4.0L engine 2001' XJ NV3550 Atlas II 5:1 1987' XJ D30 1969' Hemi Charger D60 2001 XJ Master Cylinder/pedal/clutch cylinder/seats/rug/doors/windshield gasket/visors/fenders/hood/anniversary wheels (5.9er wheels) 1988 XJ instrument cluster XJ E-brake cables FSJ ft driveshaft & probably lots of other stuff I forgot (It had a shortened 72' Javelin rear driveshaft till I swapped T-cases) I bet the poor thing is ~20% original :doh:

There is usually a allen key hole in the bottom center of the disposal, you put a hex key in there (it's usually attached to the disposal somewhere on the side), and spinning the hex key spins the motor. If it's bound up, sometimes a little human power will help to free it. Also, look for the reset as was already said.

What engine/trans & tires are you running/planning to run? Condition is everything, I picked up an XJ 44 cheap over the summer, but it was rusted so badly the axle retainers came apart before they would let me remove the axleshafts. :doh: The housing itself is fine, and the gears & shafts will probably be OK too, but it is far from a 'bolt in', since I will need to get new retainers, bearings, complete brakes, etc etc before it is runable. The 4.10 geared 30/35 set has it's place, I ran 3.73 geared 30/35 in a 4.0l 5spd, with 31's as a daily driver for years, and was happy, but even with the 31's, I popped the spider gears once, and the ring gear another time. If you are waiting for a matched set of 4.10 geared 30/44's, you are probably going to wait a long time, then pay $$$ for it. If the 4.10 geared 30 was available separately, that would be a good grab, then sit on it til you could get a 4.10 rear (44, 8.8, etc).

I forgot that, but yep I swapped the Renix distributor. I used the Renix 90* filter adapter, with the HO screw in adapter forgot about the throttle cable too, yep, that also needs to swap. Now that you mention it, I think I also had to swap the matching HO throttle pedal assembly. 1992 YJ Renegade 4.0L had the knock sensor boss too Memory has faded a little, but I think I made the connection/adaptation in the metal section of the lines. OK, I just have the extra TPS plug hanging there, and always thought ( :doh: ) it connected to a second TPS with the auto.

I am stubborn enough to 'win' the battle with this thing..... eventually. (friggen battery's have to run out sooner or later). :rotf: Good find. :thumbsup:

Renix to HO swap: Method #1: swap in the HO engine/head, keep the Renix intake/exhaust/TB, etc (have to somehow match intake to head) Method #2: swap in the HO engine/head/manifolds/TB, but keep the Renix control & sensors Method #3: swap in the HO engine/head/manifolds & HO engine control system in. I picked #2, toughest part was adapting the renix throttle position sensor to the HO throttle body. If you have an automatic, you'd have two TPS's to swap (since the auto tranny has it's own TPS). Also had to reroute the Renix fuel lines to get them in the right locations for the HO fuel rail. Swap all the Renix sensors to the HO engine, get an HO headpipe, eliminate the EGR (could be a problem if they check emissions in your area), swap the Mopar alternator for the Renix's GM alternator, and you are pretty much there. My swap was a little more complicated since I used a YJ 4.0L (different accessory drive, different motor mount brackets, no 90* oil filter adapter, etc).

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: to the Waggy front end, makes me want to tuck one away for some future MJ project. :yes: Big :ack: to the fact that Waggy parts are already tough to find, and an MJ with a Waggy nose = the toughest to find of all Jeep marker lights/taillights/bezels/etc etc. :doh: