91Pioneer

As an aside, cindercrete blocks are not jack stands --> http://www.clickondetroit.com/news/Ida-Township-teen-lifts-car-to-save-grandfather/-/1719418/8812972/-/5spmw5/-/index.html Do you want to look like this (or worse)?

If you don't want to keep it original, just sell it to someone who will :-)

If you're going to leave sugar in it you may as well leave it empty. 'cause what if it isn't stolen? Then you have to dispose of sugary gas #backfire.

Good idea :-) Something like this: http://r.ebay.com/kd4nj4

Thanks cruiser, I was checking out the link in your sig, lots of good info.

Yeah I don't mind sharing the guys' contact info if I don't buy it.

I know there are quite a few potential causes of a no start condition on the Renix trucks, however I'm wondering is there one most common cause that I could check out? From my reading it looks like the CPS crank sensor may be the most likely cause, sound correct? It needs to be clean, and in worst case new wires run from the PCM to the CPS (Mopar has/had a kit for that).

If it is the harmonic balancer, how big of a job is that to fix? DIY job?

I only say tweaked because the tailgate isn't quite closed on the drivers side. So it just may not latch properly or maybe the bed is tweaked, I don't really know. The bed doesn't look dented but that black fender flare was put on because the original was damaged. Around here it doesn't take much to total an older vehicle. The one body shop I usually deal with only charges $69/hr that's an independent place so others may be higher. - Factor a fender, fender flare, mirror, and labor it's hard to say what the total damage estimate was. There is also a dent below the window on the drivers door, so that was probably part of the claim, whereas this guy just pulled the dent instead of replacing the door. It's the labor here that really adds up. This thing had a provincial body & mechanical inspection prior to being licensed again so I really doubt the frame would be damaged and passed. Other minor things that needed to be fixed during the inspection process was the shift knob was replaced, the wiper motor worked slowly so that was lubricated, the horn contacts were corroded so it didn't work, all that minor stuff was fixed. Honestly the fact that it had a full inspection 3 years ago make me more interested in the truck. Sure it was "totalled" but on older vehicles it takes very little to total them. I saw an XJ Cherokee (93) last week in the junkyard and all I remember seeing is it had was a dented drivers door (it still opened and closed) and the mirror on the door was hanging.

The floor boards should be fairly solid because it passed a safety inspection 3 years ago. I'm sure they're rusted some, that's common to all up here. The fender was caved in when it was sideswiped before he bought it. He pulled it as best he could and it passed inspection as it is today. He has a replacement fender that will be included (wrong color though). The drivers' side mirror was busted off when it was sideswiped, so he took the mirror from the passenger side and moved it to the drivers side. Legally you only need that outside mirror so he didn't bother putting one back on the pass side. If I was to buy and keep the truck, I would weld up all the mirror holes and put the smaller folding mirrors on instead. And fix the rust issues and repaint. Oh, and put in a grey interior. And put on 10-hole Eliminator wheels. That's about it for starters LOL When I said the 88's are a bad year for elec bugs, I know it's all Renix' 87-90, not just 88.

So I'm still searching for a short box 4.0 Comanche locally. I'm going to look at one that isn't advertised (guy replied to my want ad). It's an '88 short box 4.0. It's silver on the outside (not original paint), and blue on the inside (ugh). 5-speed manual 4x4 with 234K km (145K miles). Pretty much original, not lifted or anything. It's not in the same town but the weather right now is preventing me from going so I thought I'd read up and ask some questions before going to see it. It passed a full safety inspection 3 years ago, front to back. Rust-wise it's not bad, seems to be 4 small patches started, all on the box. It all looks repairable. Cab looks good from the pic. Glass is perfect. He talked for nearly a half hour on the phone telling me the whole story on it, everything he's done in the last 3 years he's had it. It was sideswiped while sitting on the street so was written off. He bought it from the insurance company. It was quite minor, bashed in fender, broken mirror, broken fender flare, box maybe tweaked just a bit (look where the tailgate closes on the driver side). But like I said it needed a full safety and mechanical inspection which it passed so the little things and important big things were fixed up. He said there is a squeak from the engine but when it warms up he was going to take it to a friends shop and see about replacing the idler pulley, he thinks that's what it is. He put on a new fuel filter and had the oil changed a week ago. He has a replacement left front fender (wrong color) already. The only thing that kind of bugs me is he said it takes 5-6 tries for it to start, whether it's hot or cold. He was going to listen to see if the fuel pump was making noise, he suspected that. I think it could be simply a bad wiring connection or CPS. I've done some reading and the 88 is a bad year for various electrical bugs especially when the current owner knows nothing about them! The truck runs great once it's going but takes some tries to get going. Does that sound like a deal killer? (it doesn't to me, it sounds like it needs a little TLC). We didn't talk price, he said he wasn't sure how much it's worth. I have an idea but what do you think the truck is worth? If he doesn't sell it, he plans on putting on bigger tires and a lift kit in the spring (his garage is unheated). ]

You would have a ticket in like 5 minutes driving around with red lights in the grille in these parts ;)

I am looking for an MJ right now. Here's what I'd like to see: - quick breakdown year-by-year of changes or noteable items (change of grille, trim levels, etc.) - separate section just for engine and one for transmissions, since they cross over different years - list of known issues with all years (e.g. floor pan rust, rocker rust) Don't make it too long or detailed, try to keep it in point form. If you're interested in MJ's you don't need to know gear ratios really, or too many tech specs at the buying stage. You really want an overview of what is good/bad about each year and what to look for when buying one. Tips on how easy or hard it is to fix those known issues would be helpful also. A buyers guide is a great idea.

I see it listed on AutoTrader for $12,500... http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1988-Jeep-Comanche-1394094.xhtml?conversationId=691322

Solid truck. Looks like an Olympic edition.

That truck is total cheeseball now. He wrecked it, completely. He would have been better off not touching it and letting the next owner properly fix it up.

It turns out I do just need a Philips screwdriver. I found this article with some great photos: http://www.naxja.org/html/techarticles/gauge/Gauge.htm

I know it's probably simple but I was at a junkyard yesterday and they have a 92 or 93 Cherokee there. I want to take out the instrument cluster. I didn't have my tools with me and I'd like to go back and grab it. I'm assuming I need a Philips screwdriver to take off the bezel (which looked minty by the way), but what else do I need? Small socket set maybe?? The junkyard is 50 miles away so I can't just run home to grab a tool if I don't have the right one and I don't want to have to lug a pile of tools in there just to grab the cluster. Thanks. p.s. the steering column is already gone.

I need to "pause" my wanted request just for a bit...

Thanks but not my truck, it's for sale. So it looks fine to you, just seal it back up? I'm pretty sure you can buy the clear edge tape so it may have been replaced, hard to know.

Take a look at the cab corner where it and the door and rocker meet. See the gap? That doesn't look right to me. It looks like there might be a tape/paint line in the paint beside the molding (on the door side down just a bit from the top)... I'm guessing that someone got a good cab corner and put it right over top the existing one. But I'm not sure, is this normal, unusual or what? <old pic removed, no worries it turned out to be a normal cab corner>

I should just need the corners and not the rockers. Pics would be great, both sides.

Not sure, I have no idea on the going rate... anyone have suggestions? I'm hoping they're in good enough shape that I can cut out the old metal and weld these in without too much trouble... I'm a newbie welder. I guess worst case I'll take them to a body shop :-) Is it possible to cut out the rocker plus a foot or so of the rocker under the door? I dunno, maybe that's too tricky...? The corner is the important part because you can't buy replacement panels like you can the rocker. The passenger side needs some rocker too... p.s. I hate rust.

Wanted: Rust free cab corners. Both sides. Preferably cut from the pinch weld seam at the bottom/back up a few inches above the bottom of the door, maybe higher. To fix this type of thing:

Ive been using Flickr lately, I have no complaints with it.