Megadan

Or just leave the ABS Sensor in the hole and let it act as a plug. Another option to make the axle wider, and upgrade the axle shafts (and have options for 2 bolt patterns). http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-11790471-yukon-ford-8-8-c-clip-eliminator-kit.html Not really necessary, but it is an option. It makes the axle 1" wider on each side, and you get much stronger shafts (and no C-clips) all at once. At the very least, weld the tubes and housings where they meet. One of the bigger issues people have with bigger tires and hard wheeling is that they end up spinning the tubes in the housing. If you have some 312L Stainless mig wire and a mig welder with argon, this would be the best way to do so. It doesn't have to be a full circumference, but a couple of decent beads would at least be worth doing.

If you wanted to re-gear for 4.10 up front you are honestly better off just buying a new ring and pinion and having your current axle done. Finding a factory 4.10 Dana 30 is fairly difficult, and when you do find them they are rarely inexpensive. I plan to buy another non CAD Dana 30 from the junkyard and doing gears and axles into it anyway along with some bracing.

You will need spring perches for the leaf springs to mount to. U-bolts, and plate to bolt axle to leaf springs. Shock mounts would also need to be added, can be purchased just like the spring perches. Setting the pinion angle is the most critical part of it, but the best way I have seen it done was to bolt the perches, brackets, and axle in place loose enough to be able to move the axle around to set side to side distances and rotate for the pinion angle. Once you get everything in the right place you simply tack weld the brackets where they need to go and take the axle back off to finish up the welds. If you don't have a welder it will be a little harder. If you can at least use a cheap flux core welder to tack the brackets and mounts on with you can then take the axle to a professional welder to finish it up. Most likely you will have to run some brake lines along the axle. You will have to do a little work to get the parking brakes working. If you currently have drum brakes out back you will want to swap out the proportioning block just like you would for a factory disc brake conversion. You will need to figure out the pinion flange side of the drive shaft and maybe shorten the drive shaft itself. That's the basics. A lot of the detail can be found by doing what you have already done. As far as axle swaps go, this is about as simple as it gets, but obviously there are a lot of little things to work out. Research counts for a lot. I will be doing this swap myself soon once my tax money comes in.

Well, it would take up the whole bed for starters, and darn near max out the rear suspension (over 1400lbs). If you've never seen one free of a plane in person, then you just don't get the size of those things. Awesome, but ridiculous.

Glad you located the first problem. Re-timing the dizzy should be simple enough as long as it's not too far off. Set to Cyl 1 TDC as best as you can. With the timing mark lined up on the harmonic balancer with the 0 on the timing cover the rotor should be just coming into contact (or just ahead of) the post for Cyl 1 on the cap. There are a couple of good write ups on it.

I have my headlights relayed off the headlight switch and direct powered off the battery/alternator. I'm quite happy throwing a switch to turn lights on and off vs adding more complexity to my lighting circuit at this point lol. It is a good idea though, and I may consider it in the future.

For what it's worth, what Eagle said is fairly on point. I use my truck to travel down some "roads" that are essentially paths created by someone driving across a field or through a wooded area. I have 2" coil spacers and leaf springs out back with puny little 235/75-15 all terrains of a crap quality, and I do fine even when the trails are muddy. I eventually plan to lift it a little more and run 33's, but with my 3.07 gears it would be too much of a dog until I put better ratios under it. Honestly, I would rather install lockers or at least a limited slip up front to match the rear before I did anything else. If your goal is to make a hardcore off-road rig, be prepared to go broke and still break stuff. Even "strong" stuff can break with hard use.

You can use a backyard mechanic way to figure out a rough estimate of the ratios in the axle. Use tape to mark a spot on the driveshaft, and on the tire and body. Line up the tire and body marks, then rotate the wheel (or turn the axle) with axle off the ground and trans in neutral. Count the number of times the driveshaft rotates in the time it takes the tire to make one revolution. If the the driveshaft makes 3 revolutions per 1 tire revolution then you will have 3.07's. 3.5 driveshaft revolutions per 1 tire then 3.55's etc.

Well, if they are stock ratios, if it was a factory automatic car then it should have 3.55's. If it was a factory 5spd, then you will have 3.07's. This is assuming somebody didn't already swap out to different ratios.

Another option would be to go with a Ford 8.8 from an Explorer. Multiple benefits going that route. With either the 8.25 or ford 8.8, you will have to cut off the factory leaf perches on the axles and weld on new ones. The nice thing about the Explorer axle is that you can find them in a 4.10 ratio and they are readily abundant (and fairly strong). The biggest weakness they have is they can spin the axle housing tubes in the housing itself, but this can be solved by welding the tubes to the housing. You can also purchase a C-clip eliminator package from Yukon with upgraded axles for about $560. There are some things you can do to a Dana 30 to beef it up, and with those steps should be ok with 35" tires. Definitely upgrade the axle shafts, C bracing, and either a truss or sleeving the tubes. (or both for overkill lol).

Depending on your fabrication skills, one of the best options for good axles front and rear would be to find an old bronco and steal the front Dana 44 and rear ford 9in. As mentioned above, there will be some welding necessary. Axle WMS is also something to consider. If you need anything more than those axles with some 35" tires, you need to lay off the skinny pedal or drop some cash on 1 tons lol. The real question is, what kind of budget do you have to work with? That, more than anything, will really determine the route you go.

Can that blue module be purchased new? I normally don't like alarms, but since I don't drive my Pioneer every day I often forget to do things like shut off the lights... (yea, stupid of me, but I got spoiled by my Crown Vics automatic stuff lol)

If they were for the TPS plug for the auto trans, shouldn't cause a problem. That plug normally hangs in the breeze doing nothing anyway. If you can't find anything by the time I get off of work, post up a picture of the wires you have left and I can compare them to my wiring harness and try to lend a hand. I did the C101 delete a few months ago.

^ I ordered general springs straight off the website and my truck sits that high in the rear too (over a year after they were installed...plenty of time to settle). I didn't specify any sort of military wrap, I just wanted springs because my factory leaf springs were busted and rusted. Maybe all of their springs are like that? I bought spacers for the front to level it out simply because my truck has a hardcore rake going on right now, and it didn't settle as much as I expected. Even with a bunch of scrap metal in the bed for 5 months.

I'm nowhere near you, but I am willing to do some measures on my LWB if you tell me where to measure lol

Correct, but if the spark into the distributor is weak, it sometimes still won't make it to the plugs. That's why I said what I said. When my coil was getting weak, I would have consistent random misfires on new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and distributor. Changed out to a new coil and almost all of my mistfire woes were gone. It's worth testing if you can.

Many of my problems are located at the fuse box or with the wiring under the dash. The closest I get to your issue is that I occasionally get a small stumble/backfire when the engine isn't fully up to temp. Have yet to iron that issue out yet, but it's nowhere near what your problem is.

I was actually considering these as a replacement for my horrible tires currently on the truck. Every review of them pretty much says the same thing. Good all around tire for a daily driver with decent off road performance. http://www.fourwheeler.com/product-reviews/1402-cooper-discoverer-st-maxx-review-quality-time/

I am more than aware of the various different kits out there. What I am looking for is any specific methods people may have used that worked well for them, including methods for cleaning out the insides of frame sections.

Sounds like some random wiring gremlin, maybe a short. I know the wiring on my 88 pioneer is...to put it nicely...screwed. It could be unrelated, but that would be my guess. I haven't had your exact problem, so hopefully someone who has experienced something similar will chime in.

I would test that coil. Even if you get spark from the coil, if it is weak enough it may not be able to jump the gap from the rotor to the cap and travel up the wires to the plug.

I did a little bit of searching and found some tidbits here or there, but I was wanting to try and focus ideas, methods, and generally any and all ideas and approaches to rust proofing an MJ. This topic comes to light because I will soon be replacing my drivers floor pan. I just got my C2C pan in the mail, so it is now a matter of waiting for a good time to do the work. While I have the floor pan out, I plan to clean out and treat the frame section from the inside. Unfortunately, this is not as much of an option on the passenger side since the floor pan is still good and I don't feel like replacing it "just because" or cutting the thing out to gain access to it. Thus, I am looking for any methods to cleaning out and treating the insides that have worked for others. I am also looking for any approaches to treating the cab corners, rockers, etc. I wouldn't mind drilling a hole or two and plugging it if necessary if it means I can keep this truck from turning into a rusty wreck. I do plan on pulling the bed later this year and chassis coating the frame and cleaning up, treating, and sealing the bed from the inside/underneath. My main concern is the unibody side of things.

I have a rear main seal leak too. Wouldn't cause your problem, just means your truck marks its territory.

You can estimate the length with a bit of coat hanger wire. Just put it through the hold and out the nut at least the width of the threads and mark the other side where it meets the frame. That should get you close.

Mine was already bypassed when I bought the truck. About the only thing different is that if I drive with the HVAC set to heat, some hot air will come through the vents. I slide it to cold, and no problem.