Megadan

On the 4x4's the other end of the cable is hooked up to the drive gear on the transfer case. It's on the top drivers side at the rear of the case, fairly easy to spot from underneath when you look at it from the back of the transfer case.

Good stuff, looks like my educated guess wasn't too far off. Glad to hear it was something simple! Love cheap fixes like that.

There is a thread on here where somebody modified an XJ sending unit and flipped it around to work on a Comanche. It would take a little searching, but it was more recent. The two problems are, the sending units in MJ's face the opposite direction of MJ's, and the float lever arm is longer and shaped a little differently.

I would agree with a bad ground or maybe a bad or loose charge wire. If the alternator tests fine, then it sounds to me like you have a draw on the battery greater than the alternator is outputting. That would explain why it needs a couple of minutes on a jump before it will kick over.

In simple terms, yes. Pull the socket out, cut it off (keep track of the wires) and solder and heat shrink (or use weatherproof connectors) the new socket on. They usually come with a short pigtail of wire for the connections.

Since you are wanting to do a front end conversion, better axle, etc. You could always just snag a donor XJ. That would get you an 8.25 rear axle and front axle with matching gears as well as the front end conversion you want, and a few goodies for spare (transfer case and trans) or things you can sell to make some money back.

If you aren't going to do be doing circuit boards, then that gun would be perfect. They key to a good soldering iron/gun is the ability to heat up the surfaces quickly to apply the solder as fast as possible without overheating the rest of the wire and it starts to melt the insulation around the unexposed wire.

You could clean up the TB passage for the IAC, it may be plugged up causing you to notice no change. I would also check/test the O2 sensor, as some of your symptoms are similar to those with a bad O2

Rosin core solder would be the way to go. generally 60/40 rosin core can be found at most car parts and hardware store. Those weller guns are pretty good stuff. I have a propane flame heated soldering iron that I use, but they aren't for everybody. You could always go with a budget cheapie soldering iron from the local hardware store, but be warned that they can be somewhat inconsistent with temps, and don't tend to last very long.

Could be a combination of issues. Have you done any of Cruisers Renix tips yet? If not, start there.

Sounds to me like air helper springs. Bags that you inflate with air when carrying heavy loads. Pictures definitely help.

As far as signals. Mine didn't work either, replaced the sockets with new ones from the parts store and that solved my problem. Whether you have the same problem as me or not, that's a different question. Headlights. A headlight relay wiring setup works great. I get 13.8V at my bulbs. Essentially you wire the headlights to power off the battery, use one factory headlight plug as the trigger for two relays, one for high beams, one for low, and voila. The factory headlight harness is now simply used to trigger relays, which takes a lot of load off of the switch, and the power for said headlights comes directly from the battery. If you google search you can find a lot of information on this type of mod.

In that case, then the rod not being long enough is correct.

The rod is popping out before you get it installed all the way? Most pre-bled setups (and individual slave cyls) have a zip tie/plastic piece that holds the rod back to prevent the rod from shooting out so you can install it and prevent the rod from doing what yours is. Example: https://www.rockauto.com/info/42/CS360047-007__ra_p.jpg

I have Moog CC782's on the front of my with 1.5" spacers. I don't mind the ride at all.. Also running KYB Gas-A-Just shocks with BPE's to give me some shock travel back.

With those new springs, the axle is going to be positioned a bit more forward than the original leaf springs, which is why they don't align if you left the axle static on stands. Those new springs have a much greater arc to them, mostly because they are new. My axle was really far forward for a little while when I first installed my springs from GS. Once they settle a little bit the axle will move backwards, but even without that, when the springs compress, the shackle flex will cause the axle to move to the rear. As far as the hole itself, .040 is just 1mm. No harm in making that hole bigger.

When I did my AX-15 swap I had to eliminate the CAD. I wanted to keep the ability to engage and disengage the axle disconnect system as I drive 80% on the street. I installed a Posi-Lok cable setup. I've been very happy with it so far. A bit pricey, and you could probably put something together creatively for cheaper, but the idea is sound. Just one more thing to fiddle with going to 4wd, but I don't mind. I just engage it when I know I may be using 4wd, and disengage it on normal drives. http://4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html

Same as mine. If I try to yank on the belt really hard, I just get a lot of belt very quickly, but during a hard stop they do engage.

You could always try to jump the pump directly from a battery and see if you hear it. If you get no noise after doing that, then it would be a good indicator. Probably wouldn't hurt to drop the tank and clean it out if it has been sitting for a while either.

That is definitely a project vehicle, but it looks like a good, solid (and really dirty), truck. Aside from a rear axle, what are your plans?

If that resistor block on the drivers side of the engine bay is still in place, bypass it and see if that makes a difference too (after doing the ground refresh).

I would be amazed if that car didn't get totaled. The damage doesn't look bad, but modern cars cost so much to repair, and with damage that extensive they just tend to write them off, cut you a check for another vehicle, and sell them to be rebuilt or scrapped.

^That. Any competent Hydraulic/Pneumatic company that can build lines can put together just about anything you need. You may need to bring them a fitting or two, depending on what they can source, but it's fairly simple/straight forward.

Nice progress, can't wait to see those pics. I love seeing more long beds being worked on. People think mine looks wierd, but I think they look better than the shorties.

Not always, GM has a few applications from the factory that specify degrees. In fact, the 60 degree V6 rocker arm torque spec is 89in-lbs + 30 degrees.