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Wish I could help just don't know much about renix system? It sounds like a severe vacuum leak I'll bump it for you good luck

I was thinking the wiring could be different too.Wiring is a non issue just swap you 5sd column harness to the new column no extra wires for automatic in the column (that I'm aware of).

Helped my pops rebuild his column with one from s10 can't remember year something he rounded up,but as stroker stated the attachment points were different on that particular year we used but the parts were interchangeable. Saying all that i think there are some specific years that are direct replacements, try searching google I wanna say I saw a writeup on naxja. Good luck

As far as eating wheel bearings no dice as of yet.

I wouldn't think they are just as safe as stock setup, but I've been running them 6 months no issues. I first bought some el cheapo set off of eBay, but after research bought a set of spidertrax 1.25" off CL for cheap. No complaints,good luck

Probably would be a good idea to move it to the writeup section good info [emoji106]

surface diff needs to be clean and I have always gave it more time then label suggests before trimming for better results [emoji106]

Excuse mess one of dads rent homes/projects neways this is right after install,my profile pic is the original state.I also have added 1" spacers to the 3.5" RE coils in front since this pic and now that the rear has had time to break in it sets pretty lvl. Got some pics of its original height in build thread that I need to update. The truck was converted from a 2wd with worn stock springs so the actual lift was even more than I mentioned. I was able to obtain a pretty good measurement from my fathers 88 4wd MJ which he put new stock springs on about 5yrs ago. As far as shocks go, no I haven't run anything else just the bilsteins.

That's great to here gonna add this to the list of things to do [emoji2] did you take any pics of the install?

My pops used gorilla glue on his 2yrs ago still looks perfect

Dude awesome job on the panel and truck would love to do this myself one day! I'm sure you have heard this one "A 4.0 is all you need in an XJ/MJ" and that is true, until you get the opportunity to get behind the wheel of one with a V8 WOW! My buddy has a 2dr XJ with LS1 nothing compares in these vehicles that I have been around. Looking forward to more pics and details good luck with build!

Do not have 4.5" ,but can say the 3" rides great after break in I'm running bilsteins in rear. I've actually just got a pair of GM drop shackles for XMAS will be putting them on in the next week or so can report back then. I will also add that the 3" springs gave me a little over 4"s of lift in the beginning but now after several big loads in rear and time it has settled to around 3.5".

Well if your OCD is that bad, maybe it's time for new truck!! JK, they make some stuff I use a lot in the R/C world called liquid mask. It's exactly what it sounds like if your not familiar just brush it on entire surface then carefully use a razor knife and cut excess. It's great for those impossible to tape projects like this good luck!

JY, is your best bet you can even use some off an XJ just some trimming may be required good luck

Thanks Tom, customer service and the fact that you own a Comanche to do r&d on is why I went with HC springs. Which is something to keep in mind when purchasing new springs, I would bet most other lifted springs on the market was designed and tested for the XJ then adapted to our trucks. No facts backing that, just a thought. I very much doubt that since XJ and MJ leafs are totally different. Which is exactly why I'm saying this have you ever looked at aal lifts that states that the lift will give the same for the XJ as the MJ? I have, which isn't true it doesn't lift MJ as much, because of the way the springs are designed one SO one SU and the arch of the spring. (I'm sure there is someone with way more knowledge in this field that can jump in) Which brings me back to my point some obviously test their aal on XJ and not MJ. So why wouldn't they take the XJ spring extend the main eye to eye and sale it to you as an MJ produced spring? Once again no facts backing this just a thought

That's cool I like it, is that a FM 50? Post a sound clip pls.

+1 for the AWESOME at DG

Thanks Tom, customer service and the fact that you own a Comanche to do r&d on is why I went with HC springs. Which is something to keep in mind when purchasing new springs, I would bet most other lifted springs on the market was designed and tested for the XJ then adapted to our trucks. No facts backing that, just a thought.

I wouldn't call that buying a set from rustys and selling it back to you as hellcreek!! That's not what I said at all. Well you most definitely, make it sound as if they are buying off the shelf leaf springs and selling back to the buyer which is not the case. I'm sure Hellcreek can chime in they are members here, but the springs they sale are top quality and from what I'm told designed by hellcreek.

Where did your info? This is the first I'm hearing this I also have a set they are great. I knew they personally stopped production, but was told they sourced their design to a manufacture to keep cost down. I wouldn't call that buying a set from rustys and selling it back to you as hellcreek!!

This is exactly what makes this forum great

The MJ distribution block does not act as a proportioning valve, because the rear height-sensing valve takes are of that. BUT ... the MJ distribution block also has a by-pass circuit so that, if the front brakes fail when the rear is unloaded (and therefore getting very little braking through the rear proportioning valve), the bypass circuit sends full pressure to the rear brakes. If you eliminate the distribution block entirely and run direct from the master cylinder, you'll always have full pressure to both the front and the rear. But you won't have any warning light if there's a problem in either circuit. In an unloaded pickup, full pressure to the rear brakes may be too much, and can cause skids and spin-outs. If that's the case, you can buy the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve and install that in the rear brake circuit. You still won't have a warning light, and if the Wilwood is adjusted for light loads, you won't automatically get increased braking when you load the bed with roof shingles. Understood thank you sir

Not Cruiser, but the stock metering block (MJ) or proportioning valve (XJ) serves a second function: It's also the actuator for the brake failure warning light. If you eliminate it, you won't have any brake warning system. The way the proportioning function works in the XJ/ZJ version, the forward part of the valve is the part that feeds the rear brake circuit. That plug you see on the front (or nose) of the block has a rubber gasket inside, and there's a brass plunger that has a sliding shank that seals against this gasket. Then there's a heavy spring, and behind the spring there's a flange and a rubber cup seal. At rest, the cup seal blocks brake fluid from going to the rear brakes, so under light braking the fronts do ALL the work. Under severe braking, the hydraulic pressure finally gets high enough to seal the cup in the bore and force the piston forward against the spring. This opens the port to the rear brakes and allows them to do some work. And that's why I don't like the system. There's no danger of spinning out under light braking. Under heavy braking, a lot of weight transfers onto the front wheels, making it harder for them to skid, and OFF the rear wheels, making it easier for them to skid. So what the XJ proportioning valve actually does is not allow the rear brakes to work EXCEPT for the conditions when you really need to limit the braking force to the rear wheels. The other problem with it is that, since the piston only moves under heavy braking (did I mention that the spring is STRONG?), if you drive sanely and never get to panic stop pressures in the system, the cup seal may not move for years. The crud in the brake fluid builds up around it and locks it in place. At that point, you have NO rear brakes -- ever. My '88 XJ hasn't had rear brakes for three or four years. I tested it in snow -- rolling at about 10 or 15 MPH, I opened the door to watch the rear wheels (in a deserted parking lot) and slammed on the brakes. The fronts locked up and skidded. The rears just kept rolling. I think when I get Old faithful back on the road I'll just pull the spring out of the proportioning valve and leave it so I always have rear brakes. I can deal with that. So the MJ block is just a T with a warning light plug for pressure? I do understand that the XJ and ZJ blocks actually proportion the brakes but the MJ does not correct?

Cruiser, so your just coming directly from the M/C? I've been wondering if this was possible, I couldn't see why not since the stock MJ block basically serves as just a T right?

Ryderracks.com will build custom,pretty good price too 900$ very quality. Wish I lived closer to them so I could get one for the manche, shipping would drive that price up about 500$ for me.