Skorpyo

Just did mine, you'll want a pilot bushing, not bearing. I ordered mine from rock auto along with a nifty tool that threads into the old bearing and has a grease fitting. It allows you to pump grease into the opening and drive out the old bearing. Be sure to take your time when removing the old one so you don't mar the opening and when putting in your new one use a wood dowel as a drift since it'll be brass and will mar easily. I used an old broom handle that I cut and ground smooth to install the new one. Just take your time and you'll be good!

Nice truck! Love the cowl intake, inspires me to make my own! Congrats too!

Mostly unrelated, but how does an MJoTM become one? Is there a selection process or... In another jeep group I belong to they have a poll open for voting. Just curious, thanks!

to you too!

While I'm not as fervent I also disagree that just because it's a Renix you can't DD it. Engine maintenance and upkeep are no different between them and each has its own unique abilities to fail or succeed. Just because it's a Renix isn't a sufficient reason in my book to not DD it. Now if it's a Renix OR an HO and it's not maintained well, or in rough shape then no I wouldn't DD it. If you have a Renix just go through @cruiser54's list of articles and you'd be good.

I used to commute 35 miles each way and for that reason alone I bought a 4cyl commuter car that gets about 30mpg. When I used to daily my cherokee it cost me a fortune in gas, but soon my commute will be rather short and I plan to alternate between the XJ and MJ. Traffic in my area sucks, which makes driving a stick a real chore if you ever want to drink a cup of coffee while driving. A lot of stop and go so the automatic is preferable for me. If your commute is reasonable, and you enjoy driving the MJ, drive it I say.

Oh, also recommend this article. Despite the fact that its an XJ it's spot on: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm

They're really not, which is odd.. I'd recommend fabbing your own, or if the shop will do it for a price you're ok with get them to. Easiest way to do make them, if you're going to do it on your own, is to follow the template above, drill holes at the top of the notch locations and then use a hacksaw or cutting wheel. I've read that people have used steel, aluminum and even plastic. I've also read about some people using washers on the two bolts but its easy enough to make these that I wouldn't recommend being that lazy lol.

On ebay for multiple sizes: 1/32nd: https://www.ebay.com/i/140476841722?chn=ps&dispItem=1 1/16th: https://www.ebay.com/i/310269876145?chn=ps&dispItem=1 1/8th: https://www.ebay.com/i/310269878519?chn=ps&dispItem=1

For a 6 pack, this isn't a bad deal: https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-47241-Caster/dp/B000SIAMZC/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1506534719&vehicle=1999-42-347-141--9-8-8-3330-242-8-2-1766-14-8-0&sr=1-6&ymm=1999%3Ajeep%3Acherokee&keywords=control+arm+shim Also, I used to just hit a local JY every now and then and most XJs there have a few in them. Easy enough to loosen 2 bolts and pull them out with a pry bar if needed. GL!

I remembered reading that too. They were such a pain to cut off I just shortened them. I'll have to see how they behave. Thanks!

Quick question as a follow-up, when you guys used your stock cables, did you completely remove the spring at the axle end, or did you just shorten it? I shortened mine but I'm still not sure if I should have just removed it all together.

I used a hand-pump one that my buddy had (looked like this: http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=MITMV8000&source=froogle&kw=MITMV8000&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI492ftYLB1gIVwc0bCh36fwLAEAQYASABEgJRZfD_BwE) to bleed mine and while it worked pretty well we still got a little more air out using the pedal pumping method afterwards.

After crossing over the cables and shortening the springs I was able to get these hooked up. Clearances are good too. I won't have to even clamp or pin them. Thanks again guys!

Ah, you know it's funny I was laying in bed last night and the thought of crossing them over to use some of the slack occurred to me. I also like how you strapped them to the axle with sheaths. I think that might be the route I take. Thanks! @Jeep Driver thank you for confirming I'm not the lone ranger or whacko on this!

Very cool! Nothing like scoring a heck of a deal to make your day/week/month. You'll have to share a full pic when you get it out of the garage next. Oh, and have your ferrets gone for a ride yet?

I'm using the stock cables. In looking at the passenger side I'd need to get the cable to route more inward so it's away from the tire. I was thinking of putting in a retaining loop on the spring plate to do so. I'll be working on the truck tonight and can take pics if necessary. I was just figuring I wasn't the first person to have this issue, but maybe I'm wrong lol. @HOrnbrod maybe you have an LWB to eat up some of the slack? I have an SWB so maybe that's why the factory ones seem too long to me. As I understand they used the same cables in SWB and LWB.

So I have the Lokar clevis setup and have no issue in how I'm going to connect the e-brake cables to the 8.8 but my question has to do with the excess of cable. When test fitting them the passenger side wants to run against the tire, or the exhaust because it is so long. Has anyone devised a way to pin them back and can you provide me some ideas? The driverside one seems a little less encumbered, but I'd still like to ensure the tires and exhaust won't shred them. TIA

Nice color, what brand / color / source did you use? I'm considering a very similar color for my MJ repaint eventually. TIA

Never got to see it in person. Likely it did not as it didn’t have a visible hitch in the photos. Most CL listings don’t show axles unless it’s a modded rig unfortunately.

Cool, well if I do find a JY set I'll be sure to follow-up with you. I decided to order my driveshaft and get the MJ back on the road before working about creature comforts. I figure not much use in power windows if all you can see is the garage from them...

Definitely good to know. It's rare to see an older model XJ listed anywhere near me that isn't a rotting carcass hence my interest. There is a '91 about 1.5 hours south of me that has either a bad valve gasket or RMS and they're letting it go for kinda cheap, but I'm going to see if they'll come down in price since I'd have to drive so far and tow it back. It actually has all the same options the '88 did and since you say that's a better era for transplantation maybe I'll go with that. It is very tempting though to just replace the valve cover gasket, RMS and oil pan and have a fine running '91 XJ with all the options... Hmmm... 3 jeeps, might be pushing it with the significant other, haha...

unfortunately the seller never got back to me on my offer, but did informed me that it is now sold. (They why is the darn CL listing still up?!) It would've been a nice buy, but just not in the cards for now I guess.

Sounds good to me

I’m not gonna lie I read the title and expected to see a lowered Kia... Sorry about your batteries, hope it works out.