Skorpyo

So I can't find an answer on this after searching so: I swapped in an AX15 from a 95. I bought a 4wd cable to match the speedo gauge, swapped in a mechanical drive housing from an older XJ (bought on eBay) that is from a 231 and clocked it according to the markings. I removed the electric unit of course. I've verified it's seated at the gauge and right at the tcase but the speedometer is only jumping. Leading me to think it's not engaging fully The speedo gear is a new 32 tooth and came with a new o-ring and another little rubber grommet. No idea where that grommet goes so I didn't install it. Any idea if that's the missing part to make this work? I'm running out of ideas. Thanks in advance!

Congrats, looks to be in great shape on the outside. Hers to hoping the interior and mechanics are as clean!

Added in Northern, VA... Not many around me :-(

Fair point, thanks for the feedback.

So.... I'm not planning to wheel my MJ post lift, I've had my fill of 4wheeling in my XJ and the MJ is more of a project / road vehicle so if I never fully droop would I still run the risk of a bind? Just thinking out loud...

Not trying to hijack but I'm in a similar situation and was thinking of trying XJ shackles to minimize the SOA lift. Has anyone tried these who can provide feedback on their effectiveness and fitment afterwards? TIA

I'm a fan of google. If you have a google account you get google drive and then you can upload and make public videos and folders and then link them elsewhere. They have a photos service too I think, but I've always just used their drive and share option. Dropbox works too, but I'm pretty well invested in google so I just use that. Best of luck!

Good point, I always forget about eBay! I also recently found that if you check local parts stores with the "pickup in store" sometimes you can find a discount of 10-20% by ordering online with discount codes. Saved me compared to Amazon and RA.

If the rack in the rear is welded in that might deter some and may interest others. If it's bolted I'd mention that it's removable.

If I was selling it I'd look to get between $2,000 and $2500. I'd probably list it at $3000 and let them talk me down. Not related, but those look like bucket seats. Personally, as a buyer, I don't make an offer unless I've tested and looked it over front to back. When I bought my MJ on craigslist it was worth every penny of the $2500 the guy wanted for it so after checking it over I offered him asking price as I thought it was fair. Maybe I'm unusual, but I think a fair price is a fair price. Everyone else on CL seems to think whatever is being asked is too high and will never offer asking price, which is why when I sell stuff I list higher than I want to get close to what I want. Just my $0.02.

Agreed, if you have the space and the jeep runs and doesn't sound like it needs a new motor. I'm in northern VA (Woodbridge) and my buddy and I have done some floor board welding before if you're looking for tips etc.

A bit OT, but if you pull the OEM or Crown part # from Rock Auto, and have Amazon Prime I find the prices are almost always identical, or less when taking RA's shipping into consideration. I rarely ever order from RA any more and always double check Amazon first.

It took me about 7 months to find the right MJ on CL and I was partially settling for a 2WD. I went and looked at 4 other MJs and ended up declining to buy them. Craigslist is definitely a patience game and I agree with MrSimon that you literally have to check every day. I personally prefer an app on my iPhone called CSmart for Craigslist. It lets you create a search and specify REALLY wide areas (even "All US") for your search and then save your search. The free version works just fine, but I believe the paid version will even send you updates when you get a hit on your search. If you weren't in CO I'd probably have bought your MJ several years ago when I got mine. Where you're selling definitely dictates price too. Here in Northern VA everything is overpriced on CL and everyone thinks they have a goldmine they're selling. Most of the time I can do better at a JY or online than CL for parts. CL is great, but you have to be patient and not get your hopes up, half of the people posting are first timers and the replies go to their spam folder and they never get back to you. Good luck!

I'm not sure if this'll help but for my swap I'm following this guide to use the auto shift panel and my original boot and mount: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmmm, Might be a renix vs non renix issue, just a heads up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The oil filter adapter will have to come off to get the passenger side mount bolt out. Get a spare o-ring for that while you're at it. I just installed brown dogs in mine, but this is my first experience with them so we'll see if they're to my liking. Good luck!

Yeah, I'm thinking with an SYE I definitely won't have to worry about the rear and with a double CV setup I can handle higher driveline angles if needed. I just need to figure out which way I'm going before I put in the 8.8 and tack in the perches. Thanks for the feedback!

Ok, all joking aside, I was originally planning to not install an SYE on the MJ after the AX15 4WD swap but in thinking more and more about it I'd appreciate the feedback of the folks on the board before I decide to order a new rear driveshaft. So I've swapped in an AX15 with a 231 and am swapping in an 8.8 rear axle and going SOA. Net result should be around 6" of lift and I'm debating about what type of setup I should go with, a fixed yoke or stick with the slip yoke. Eitherway I'm going to have to order a new driveshaft but I want to be really comfortable that I won't end up making the wrong choice and having to order an SYE and new shaft if I stick with slip yoke. Input appreciated. TIA

I'd recommend reviewing the DIY Master Index as it has a great set of links for resources on everything from basics to advanced here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48710-diy-projects-writeups-master-search-index/ There's also a link to a good table of control arm lengths based on lift. If you go with adjustable's you can tune your control arms to these specs: http://comancheclub.com/topic/28233-lift-vs-control-arm-length-table/ Good luck!

I was thinking I might have to initially, but since the surround mounts to the floor opening I'm going to avoid removing any metal I don't need to. After checking I'm quite sure that @onlyinajeep726 is right and it should be just fine the way it is. Thanks!

Thanks for the confirmation. After working through the gears I could tell it would be alright to shift and I was able to bolt up the tower while the tranny was down which was easiest to do for the rear driver side one by accessing it through the 4wd opening. Since I'm swapping in a 97+ center console I'll have to mod it to fit the shift boot anyways since it's an auto console. I did find a video on how to do that. Thanks for the feedback and help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I've searched all around and haven't found a direct answer to this. I've just bolted in the AX15 I'm swapping into my 89 MJ and the shifter is not lined up under the tranny hump opening. I understand now that the bell housing on the AX is longer and that's why but I assume it was only marginally longer and the shifter would still bolt up. Now it appears that the opening would be extended for the shifter to fit. Can anyone who has done this swap provide feedback on if I'm doing this wrong or if this is expected and what hey did to make it fit? I'm just concerned about clearance for the shifter and eventual console. See photo for how far back the shift tower is in the opening: TIA! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ah, ok now I'm with you. So I can just use the clutch and pp from the 95 which is good cause they're in great shape, better than the 89s set. As for the bushing, I bought one a while back in planning,for the upgrade, but now that I'm looking at it there is currently a bearing inside the pilot bushing on the 4.0 but I'm just supposed to put in a bushing to replace a bearing? Won't that cause friction issues over time? Perhaps I'm over thinking it. TIA, Tim Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply, so from what you're saying the pressure plate should be matched to the 89 part numbers vice the 95? If I'm going to order a new pressure plate I may just get a new clutch kit and be done with it both. Thanks! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Finally got around to pulling the BA10 from my 89 with a 4.0 and was inspecting the clutch and pressure plate and the one that was on my donor AX15 is in nearly perfect shape. I know the flywheel has to stay on the 89 engine but can I use the clutch and pressure plate from the 95 AX15? Looking at them they are nearly identical and the one from the donor XJ had been replaced less than 5K before I bought it. TIA, Tim