philbert001

Maybe some whoops!

Mine was close too. I also did floorpans in mine. You have a little room to make some space, but not much. I got about an inch outa mine by persuading it over with my BFH, befor welding in my new floorpans.

If you enlarge the pics of the emblems, you'll see that it's not clean at all. It's an Earl Scheib Hack paintjob. Wahoo was dead on, clean engine bay. That's probably just pressure washer and vinyl dressing! Somebody added an extra 0 when creating that sale ad!

Rimshot!

Let us know how it turns out! I was thinking about doing the bottom half of my XJ (Trail rig), Like that!

Slow reducer is going to be high temp reducer. You will want Fast/low temp reducer, or medium if it's real hot where you plan on spraying. Slow reducer will flow best, but if you don't do it just right, it'll all be on the floor! :fs1: Like I said, Fast thinner will shine just fine, and will resist running better. Those prices aren't bad, but what's the brand? At those prices, it should be a big name. (PPG, Dupont, Nexa, Sherwin Williams, R-M, Etc.) If it's an off brand, that's too expensive. I can get a gallon of off brand clear and hardner for about $100. (FYI)

Like I said, Do it yourself, and learn from the experience! You will be much prouder of a crappy paintjob you did yourself, than a crappy paintjob you paid money for!

If you are going with a solid color, (white, black, solid red, white, blue etc.), you can paint it apart. If you use a metallic, or a pearl, you want to spray it together. (The base will lay differently if you are crossing the edges at different angles/times.)

coming along nicely bud! Don't rush the paint! Prep it right, and she'll be turning heads for years to come!

You should be ok,you might not have to reduce your paint as much though as its gonna be a little thinner due to the heat. you also may want to go with a medium reducer. Well said. Most basecoats/topcoats can be over/under reduced 10%

:yes: I think all painters struggle with white to some extent.

Your MJ looks nice white definitely a good color, mines either going to be white or orange so far leaning towards white, I looked at a lot of forums to see colors but none that caught my eye, I was also thinking using the same color as my XJ, 1973 metallic pearl blue, since I'm painting it myself no metallic or pearl I don't even know if the finish paint will come out good. White is the best color for any vehicle that isn't perfectly straight bodied. It hides body flaws, and it hides paint imperfections. It's not easy to spray, because you can't see the shine laying out well, but can be worth it for being so forgiving in other aspects. This is not my .02. These are facts.

Primer is porous. (It's not waterproof) especially the thin bodied rattle can stuff. I would topcoat any primer asap. (Even if it's just with a few coats of cheap rattle can color.) That will seal the primer, and give it some UV protection at the same time. (Primer isn't designed to hold up to sunlight for long either). This is not my .02. These are facts.

I wasn't flaming the club. I simply think that when a member has a question, It should be answered by the people who have professional knowledge to share as it pertains to the subject of the question. Not what just anyone who has, "Had work done", has to say. If everyone throws down their, ".02", how is the asker of the question to figure out who is shooting straight, and who is replying to hear themselves reply.

imagine that. A deleted post!

I would buy locally if possible. You may pay a little more than online, but you will get way better support if/when you need it. They will also be able to give you a lot more info on your choices of products. Allowing you to make a much better educated decision on what products to go with. If you buy online, and end up needing more of something, or another product to make it work right, you are S.O.L. for a week or so. :doh:

I sprayed my MJ in my garage, and used about 2 quarts basecoat, (After being reduced), and about 3 quarts of sprayable clearcoat. (Reduced and catalyzed) You will want to make sure you have more than that on hand, because I am a professional painter, therefor, I'm probably a bit more efficient than you, but I wouldn't think you'd need more than a gallon of sprayable basecoat. And that should leave you with a good quart leftover. I would say buy a gallon of cheap clear, and that will be plenty to spray the truck. (Usually mixed 4 parts clear, 1 part hardener, 1 part thinner, but will vary by what you buy.) The gallon of clear will come with a quart of hardener, and you will use the same reducer for your base and your clear. So, my recommended shopping list is: 2 quarts basecoat (It will come mixed thick, and will need reduced 1:1, leaving you with a gallon sprayable) 1 gallon low temp urethane grade reducer (enough for your base and clear. low temp won't flow as much as high temp, but will resist runs better.) 1 gallon clear, and the included quart of hardener (If it's mixed 4:1:1, that'll give you 1.5 gallons sprayable.) If you do it close to right, you'll have enough leftover base and clear to respray a few panels if you screw em up too bad. As for price and brand, Most major brands have a cheaper off shoot brand. I like Martin Senior, (Sherwin Williams redheaded stepchild), but like I said, most brands have one. Go to your local paint suppliers, and just ask what their cheap brands are, and how much my little shopping list will cost ya. Good luck, and take your time. you don't need to get color coverage in one coat. If you have questions as the time draws closer for paint, feel free to PM me!

Good lookin truck bud! :brows: I do everything on the cheap. I have like 5.5 inches of lift under my XJ, and needed longer lower control arms, but didn't have the money, so I cut my factory arms in 2, lengthened them, boxed em', and put a bend in em'. I'll try to post up my build thread from another forum if you are interested. Let me know!

I had high idle issues after I swapped in a 1 piece shaft front axle. I didn't plug the lines before the first time I started it, and it idled super high. Check the lines that go to your vacum disco.

Bump for some help? or Ideas?

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16750 If you need any more help/info than I gave this guy, feel free to pm me!

Going from 3.07 to 3.55 gears is not "taller." The lower (numerical) ratio is the "taller" gear. MORE gear is typically referred to as "deeper," not "taller." well call me an a$$hole! Lol! I've been saying that backwards for years! That's OK, you knew what I was sayin'!

OK, replaced my pickup tube, and that didn't fix it. Brought home a pressure gauge from work, and I have oil pressure all day! 40 lbs at idle, 70 when I open the throttle. I only had the rear bearing cap off when I did the rear main, and it looked fine. (No scoring, chips, gouges, etc) So I'm assuming the others are fine too. Where should I go from here? I really don't want to pull the head unless I have to, and I can't afford to throw parts at a problem! Thanks guys!

That's what I did. I had 3.07's, and I swapped in a 99' cherokee front axle with 3.55's and one piece shafts, and threw in the rear 3.55's to match. Cherokees are about like comanche's as gears go. Most 4.0 manuals came with 3.07 gears. most 4.0 autos had 3.55's, most 4 bangers had 4.10 gears. Hope this helped! FYI, I'm running 235/75r15 all terrain T/A's, (She's my daily driver), And with the taller gearing, she'll $#!& and git!

In 2002, I was 22 and I bought my 96' ZJ totaled. I put it together, drove it, wheeled it and loved it! Then, tax time that next year, I bought one for my wife. A totaled 1990 XJ Laredo. I have loved the MJ for as long as I can remember, and as it happened, My paint rep's dad had one that he wrecked, and couldn't afford to fix! I gave $500 for it, and started putting her together! I had a pretty substantial XJ parts pile laying around, and all I ended up Having to buy was a 35 dollar fender, and a 40 dollar bumper! I'm still chasing little gremlins on her, but she'll be my DD in the next month or so!