Automan2164

No what? Rob L.

Wow. You might have one of the only stock 4.10 geared 4.0L's if this is the original axle and drivetrain... 8953000394 '86-89 Cherokee, Wagoneer & Comanche 30 4.10 NL disconnect axle Whats the VIN? Rob L.

Dealer is the way to go. Rob L.

And, the perches are on the wrong side of the axle. Rob L.

Contact the seller first. They give a discount for Comanche Club members. Rob L.

OE is best, but what brand are you using? Rob L.

Good call Don. Looks like I know where I'm getting mine. Rob L. :cheers:

I'd be down. Rob L.

Use some engine bright, or gunk. Get it warm, shut it off, and soak it down. The only sensor that is really water temperamental is the TPS on the throttle body. Let it soak (I usually go way beyond what they reccommend to let it eat in good, and spray it off. I usually do this a couple times, and then your good. Rob L.

What. The. French. Toast. You have to help a brotha out. I see two there, and I DISTICNTLY remember giving you one of my 2 MJ pins. Rob L. :brows:

Just checking... We are still on the search for the last MJ made... Rob L.

Nice truck! What is the build date on the Drivers door? Rob L.

Maintenance first. Rob L. :cheers:

Pete, your not helping the situation. Rob L.

Ding! As I said. Don't be sure until you read the numbers on the gears themselves. Rob L.

A track bar is essential. Without it, your axle would just move back and fourth under the truck. Its what holds it in side to side so that the pitman arm doesn't just push the axle back and fourth. Rob L.

What is your VIN? Also, if you give me ALL the numbers on that tag, I should be able to tell you what it came out of. If the tag doesn't jive with the gears, they've been swapped. I would still pull the cover to be sure. Rob L.

Looks like a rust free bed. Be a shame to cut it up. I'd see if there were a local member who might trade you a best up bed for that one. Damn sexy truck though. Rob L.

The absolute sure way is to pull the cover, and look on the ring gear. It will have 2 numbers towards the end of the part number stamping. Those will be the tooth count of the ring and pinion. Example would be 41 11, or 3.73's once you divide it up. Rob L.

The doors are the key. That was a club cab. The quad cab came out mid '97 or '98. Whichever was the changeover year for the 24V. For half a year they made the 12V in the quad cab flavor, which is highly desirable. I bought mine from a friend who had more money than attention span. He bought it for $10,000 cash, put about $10,000 in hard parts on it(Holset HX40, Injectors, Fuel plate...), then blew a trans line. After numerous attempts to fix it with line patch and such, he gave up because he didn't want to buy a set of trans lines. Knowing I was always in the market for that thing, he asked. All I had was $4000, so that's what I bought it for. Fun truck, but expensive to maintain at times. To think I complain about unit bearings on the MJ/XJ/ZJ's... Those suckers were $250 a side 5 years ago, and I had to do both. :eek: Heater core was fun too. Then one day cruising at 60, there was a loud boom, the wheels locked up for a split second, and that was all she wrote. They were known for the torque converter detonating, then locking up the trans, and the rotating mass of the truck on the wheels would force the trans to move, bending all the innards. New trans from goerends was about $4000 if I put it in, and I just didn't have the cash. It was starting to rust anyhow, and the engine didn't sound too hot. Started popping when it was cold, like it was clearing out its throat. Still miss it though, and it was super hard to watch it roll away on the trailer. But then again, I sold off all the MJ's and stuff to buy it. When it went, a co-workers $700 '91 XJ Laredo was the new unit, and that got me back into all the insanity once again. Good to be back. Rob L. :cheers:

:drool: 12 Valve Bonus points if you tell me how you knew. Rob L.

mine was an 86 and the tag was in pretty good condition only surface rust I believe you would be in the minority. Not only the condition of them makes it hard to deal with, but previous owners too. Not many people doing a differential service are detailed enough to put back on what seems like an old rusty tag that means nothing to them. Rob L.

I would say to get it hot with a heat gun and slowly pull an edge up... Hoping that you can soften up the adhesive. Then keep it going, but your dealing with a 20 year old sticker that has been out in the elements for just as long. Its going to be tough. I would suggest a solvent of somekind, but any solvent that would soften up the adhesive would probably eat at the sticker itself too. Rob L. :dunno:

Jerk. I had one too, but I was tight on money... Then trans go boom at the same time. Had 298,000 on it, and still sold it for $3500 with no trans or front driveshaft. Boy do I miss the ol' brute. I miss being able to respond "Yep, I can haul/tow/pull/take that." to just about anything I wanted to. Pull start a frozen semi? You bet. Rob L. :(

I can almost guarantee that your head gasket isn't leaking. Lets see some pics and videos. Don't make your problem bigger than it is. Rob L.