Automan2164

Ford Owner video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnrhTDjHLdY

We have a hybrid Chevy Silverado at my work, as well as a hybrid Civic. One important thing to consider with the Start/Stop system is they use a large stator where the torque converter would be. No traditional starter, alternator, or anything of the sort. The stator charges the battery while cruising, as well as draws current on braking demands, putting drag on the drivetrain. The regenerative braking has to be one of my favorite features. Grabs a charge and helps slow the vehicle and save brakes. The Civic is a normal Hybrid. It uses the hybrid battery as a source of alternate propulsion, and will move on battery power alone, gas engine alone, or in high demand, both. If you floor it, the hybrid system fires up and supplements the small gas engine. As for the start/stop, usually as you are slowing starting at about 15 MPH, it may cut the engine if it desires. It's barely noticeable, and most of the time you have to be actively watching the tachometer to pinpoint when it happens. Upon acceleration, depending on the demand, it may coast off on electric, or refire the gas motor. All of this you can watch on a charge/use indicator that shows draw or recharge depending on application. You can recharge the battery manually by holding the accelerator in park and holding it above 2500 RPM. This has a hybrid battery, and a standard 12V. The Silverado isn't a hybrid at all. It doesn't use the 42 volt battery under the seat for anything but refiring the gas motor and running accessories during the stop feature. Because it doesn't propel itself with the electric motor, it can't be hybrid powered by definition. This one will kill off at about 10 MPH, and coast. It uses a hydroboost power braking system with electric backup to maintain power brakes. This truck is very basic in it's functions. There is nothing to let you know what it is up to other than the tach and a single little start/stop indicator. This also has both a hybrid and standard battery. Rob

This was for sale as a package some time ago on the forum.

Looks like they have a 120 LED rechargeable under hood light... Looks like a short guy, and probably comes with the standard style LED that is pretty directional. http://www.harborfreight.com/120-led-rechargeable-under-hood-work-light-60793.html This is mine. It's pricey, but I bought this before I did the lighting upgrade in the garage. I also didn't pay retail off the tool truck since I paid in cash. I do a lot of work in the driveway also, so this is a great tool to have around. The hood hooks have a flat on them so it will stand on his own on the ground also, so having it underneath the car lighting up the whole undercarriage is handy. It has 6 high intensity LED's. http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/UHWLAC/LED-UNDER-HOOD-LIGHT-AC-CORDED/ Rob

Sub models: Custom X XLS Renix Base H.O. Base Renix Pioneer H.O. Pioneer Chief Laredo Olympic Edition Renix Eliminator H.O. Eliminator Sport Renix SporTruck H.O. SporTruck Metric Ton BIG TON Street Comanche Rob

I believe it is a T1.

cnet is good for video reviews of anything you may be thinking of. Only have ever had android here. I love the open market place, the apps, the everything. Seems iproducts are laid out on a rigid platter and you pay for everything... Don't think I could ever do the iphone. Currently have the Samsung Galaxy Note 2. http://www.cnet.com/products/samsung-galaxy-note-2/ Rob

I went the T8 route when the local Menards had the 234SLESW on sale. I had 2 standard bulb bases that I put CFL's in. It was dingy, dim, and light was near non existent. I replaced the switched bases into 2 outlet boxes, and mounted some lights. Before pic with 2 CFL's. Looking at the MJ, you can see that it's not very well lit. The light was white and bright, or it appeared to in the camera. Then I mounted one T8 fixture, and took another pic. That once bright CFL was yellowed in comparison to the new T8. All mounted: There is one thing that I absolutely love though... And that is my under hood LED shop light... :drool: Rob

XJ Icon wheels are 16" Don, maybe you and Sir Sam need to collaborate? http://colorado4wheel.com/images/jeepwheels/xjwheels.html Rob

You are going to have to remove the rear bumper to put nut strips in anyway. There is a nut strip on the RH side for the exhaust brackets, but nothing on the left unless you have a factory tank skid. Nut strips go in from the back. Rob

Rock -and- roll?

I'll have to look it up. It could be had with any engine though. Rob

Image for good measure. Rob

Yes. '86 Metric Ton came with the stout single piece shaft AMC20 though. Rob

:brows: Rob

This was always my work around. Rob

If you are talking about what I think you are, I am with Eagle. A friend of mine in High School had a Dakota that was overboosting the power steering. It was very light feeling and effortless. When I mean effortless, I mean you could grab the wheel and spin it like a prize wheel and it wouldn't stop until it hit lock on either side. I would look into the valving on the power steering box and the pump. Rob

If only you were closer and I could just drive to your house and let you eyeball one in the steel. Rob

'Tis what the timing marks are for young patowan. And if you haven't gotten the timing belt yet, you will be pleasantly surprised to see the belt has them indexed and marked in yellow. Rob

Ok... It's hard to describe. Basically, the fuel pressure is your spark. Without sufficient fuel pressure, the engine will never fire. Cranking, cranking, and cranking will take forever and put undue stress on the starting system. You want to start with low pressure, and move to high pressure... Everything up to the injection pump is low pressure or suction. After the injection pump is high pressure. Because the fuel just can't leak into the cylinder, the injectors have pop off pressure. Basically, a seat that requires so many PSI to open. Because air bubbles collapse under pressure, the pop off won't open. Rather than injecting fuel, the spent energy from the pump will collapse and expand the air bubbles. Make sure you are getting clean fuel to the filter. IIRC, there is a bleeder on top of the filter housing. If you need to get fuel up to the filter housing, an old trick is to crack the bleeder and use some shop air and a rag to put slight PSI into the fuel tank to push some forward (not much at all). Once you have that done, move towards the pump. Crack the fitting at the pump inlet, and make sure you are getting fuel there. Once you are sure you have fuel to the injection pump, time to cross over to the high pressure side. Since the high pressure side creates it's own pressure, you can go straight to the end of the system, the injectors. Crack the nut at the injector. At this point, if everything is good up to here, with the nuts loose, go ahead and crank the engine. Easier to use an assistant for this. Watch for the fuel/air coming out from the nuts. Be careful, because the diesel can spray out with some force. Don't go overboard on the cranking, but a little at a time. Once you start seeing a good amount of fuel, close the lines. Try cranking. It should start. If it runs rough, you may still have air in one of the lines. With it running, go ahead and crack the lines again and watch for fuel spray. As you crack each line, you will be killing that cylinder, so you will tell real quick which ones are contributing. It's been so long since I messed around with the fuel system on mine. If you still need help, let me know. I can have a buddy record me and I can fumble my way through it on mine. Rob

I never had to prime mine, but I would recommend priming the system... Do you have any diesel experience? Ever primed one? Rob

The alignment notch is square cut, so it's easy to see it apart from counterweight balance drilling which is round. And remember... Number One cylinder is at the firewall. 5/16" is a perfect fit, drops right in, and holds tight. I imagine it's pretty spot on size to that notch. Rob

Aren't we friends on FB? I have two 200+ photo albums of all the maintenance projects I've done. Rob

Alignment hole, vacuum pump removed... You can see the alignment notch halfway through the hole... Works like a charm. Rob

'Tell me doctor, where are we going this time? Is this the fifties? Or nineteen ninety-nine?' Call up Doc Brown, put on your best orange vest, crank up the Huey Lewis, and fire up the time machine... Because we are about to be back in the '80's. This month we have a super clean survivor with just the right touches in just the right areas. This thing is heavy. 87MJTIM's '87 Laredo!!! YEAR/MODEL●87 Laredo long bed with off road package ENGINE/PERFORMANCE ● 4.0 DRIVETRAIN ● 4wd, BA10/5, NP231 COOLING ● Closed system ELECTRICAL/IGNITION ● Stock from factory SUSPENSION/STEERING ● Rear General Springs, with military wrap giving 3" lift in; Front 2" spacers to level it INTERIOR ● Bucket with full console, AM FM 4 speakers, pwr window and locks BRAKES ● Heavy duty drums in rear (D44) LIGHTING ● Factory fog lamps (need to replace lamps) EXTERIOR ● Paint Champagne Metalic from factory, Rhino lined bed WHEELS/TIRES ● 235/75/15 MISCELLANEOUS ● History of the Comanche: My (future) wife bought it new in summer 87 after graduating college. She drove if for a few years. We then bought a 91 XJ and she drove that. I sold my 87 Mustang and started driving the MJ. It was my DD until 98 when I bought a new TJ. The MJ was left for weekend trips to the hardware store or an emergency spare. Well the XJ was traded for a Dodge Durango and the TJ for a Subaru Outback. Both of those are gone, replaced by a Suburban and Honda CRV. I could never think of letting go of the MJ. After 24 years, it was always the most reliable vehicle we've had (except for the internal slave cylinder), I had been looking at new pickups, but none of them were as good as the MJ. Also, the price of a new one was alot more than what it would cost to restore the MJ. So, with the wife's permission, I got it restored to factory original. The engine was rebuilt, the trans and tcase were service (first time for both), rust spots and dents were fixed and the whole body was repainted, including original pin stripes. It took almost a year from start to finish, but the results were worth it. Almost everything on it is original: 4.0, BA10/5, NP231, D30/D44. The rear leaf springs were replaced with General Spings giving it 3" of lift. The rear bumper was rusting and replaced with a Fey bumper. Same truck in the spring of '88! Remember That One Time?... Tell Us Your Best MJ Story ●Driving home in the snow when other 4x4s are stuck in the snow. CC is Awesome!... Why Do You Think So? ● CC is awesome because I have learned so much about maintaining my Jeeps. ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●● Wow. All I can say is wow. An original owner (Family) MJ after all these years. Had I met a woman who was rocking a Metric Ton Laredo MJ I would have scooped her up also. Your truck is a thing of beauty. The color, the options, the... Everything. I imagine the history and the memories made in that thing... First dates, using it to move into a new house, start new chapters, and close old ones. Forever being the rock of stability in the driveway, knowing that whatever life tossed at you, with a set of keys and a twist of the wrist, it would take all comers. Enjoy your month in the spotlight, share it with the family, and take the old MJ for an extra special cruise through the warm summer twilight for all of us. Congrats, Rob :cheers: Click here to view the article