Automan2164

http://comancheclub.com/topic/23624-grand-wagoneer-rear-spring-soa-swap-done-more-pics-added/

I get it. I am born in a generation that has been branded with a sense of entitlement. Participation awards. Laziness. Lack of common sense with anything but a computer. Disrespectful. Don't get me wrong, not everyone in my era is an idiot, just more than not... I got lost for 4 minutes while watching that video. I saw a time that I longed for. Rob

I was born in the wrong era. Rob

Have a pic of that one? Rob

Could be. I learned to drive on my '86 MJ with the stock knob. My palm can sit/rest on the flat and my fingers just curl around the front edge perfect. As for a knob you wouldn't break, you want the one that came on my diesel? It's one solid piece of machined metal, weighs a ton, and gives you frostbite in the winter. Rob

OEM only for the dizzle. Same reason I begrudgingly removed, cleaned, replaced the dash and such in that awful porn red when I have black standing by. You can't beat the way your hand fits onto the stock knob either. I will say though that I am on the manhunt for a Hurst shifter for the Farmer (Yeah, the farmer, remember that thing? I still own it.) Something about just being able to have that solid feel with tight gates in that thing excites me. Plus, I think it would look dead sexy sticking out of an all black interior...a chrome shifter and white Hurst ball of destiny anchoring the interior. Rob

Azzy's design works. He has a thread in the vendor section. Rob

Did you crank it for a long time after it died? If you didnt, and more or less just killed it and got the tow, you may be able to just fill it up and crank it (wisely) until it runs. If you cranked it for an extended time and really drew the air in, you are in for the full boat of priming sequences. Rob

It's kinda like priming a brake system. Start closest to the filter, working your way to the individual injectors. Bleed it off at the filter housing, the at the inlet to the injection pump, then the outlet lines, the the injector nuts. Check YouTube for some live demos. Rob

Carquest has them for $43. Made by Wells. Never had a problem with them myself. PN 53-16501 If you have an advance auto by you, order online and type in TRT30 in the coupon code section, good for 30% off. Rob

Someone on here has some friends in the dealer network, and they scared one up for me... Check with the dealer or a winnebago dealer. I replaced mine thinking it was frozen like yours, but I don't know if that was true or not. I know it's working because when I start the truck it high idles until it reaches operating temp and then settles down. Before I replaced mine, I never let the truck get up to operating temp to hear it change. Oil pressure sensor is by the remote mount oil filter. They are still available, but quite pricey. Under the air cleaner, lower middle right of the pic. Rob

It is an old photoshop. It's been discussed here before... Loooong time ago. Rob

I would just replace all eight. Hopefully that last holdout didn't bend the valve rather than break the rocker. Rob Rob

They are designed to do just that. Let's just hope the PO stopped short of any prolonged issues. He seems to say in the thread he only tried to start it and stopped, but it looks like it was cranking for a lot longer than that. Rob

Slightly different from an AX15, but someone else was wondering the same: http://comancheclub.com/topic/40250-looking-for-someone-to-let-me-test-drive-their-manual-comanche-illinois/ Rob

They may be cheap abroad, but freight is another story. If nothing else, you need to start collecting some FSM's and materials:

I hate to say it, but this isn't the one to learn on. Parts are expensive and hard to come by... Have you considered selling it? Rob

If you want, I am going to be posting in the CF thread, because that will have more exposure. Rob

Don't pull that head unless you source the head gasket first. They are different sizes to set head height. The reason the timing belt probably came off or loose is that the tensioner is built into the water pump... First things first, what kind of background do you have when it comes to diesels? Rob

I'm reading the sellers CF thread... Just reading it makes me nervous, especially because it seems he had no diesel experience, and just tanked the motor. Rob

Or did you have it listed on eBay? Rob

You just buy this one off of eBay? Rob

I could be wrong, as I am pulling from deep memory... IIRC, the 'Comfort' position was for exactly that. It had softer shifts, which meant more slipping of the clutches and things of that sort to smooth out the trans. Down side to that is more slipping equals more burning, less positive contact means worse fuel mileage... So the 'Comfort' mode came at a cost of transmission issues from the clutches, and fuel mileage. As of '92, all AW4 transmissions left hard wired into power mode, and with one less switch. Rob

I miss my ZJ in general. I love the XJ, but I think I would have loved it a lot more if I had never been in the plush (by my standards) ZJ. A Five-niner is on my Jeep bucket list. Rob

Went to UTI in Glendale Heights, IL. I took the full boat. Auto, Diesel, and Industrial, which included every class offered. Cost IIRC in 2004-5 was $23,500-ish. I loved the program and the instructors. Most of what you get out of the program is what you put into it. There were people that obviously didn't care, and people that wanted to succeed. Hot Rod U was cool, but it is sort of gimmicky. Built the T-bucket, modified a '92 Camaro Z28 (Instuctor made us wear the mullet wig whenever we dyno'ed the car). I did have one bad instructor, but that was about it. I had one that was a richard also, but at least he still taught. I would recommend getting a base education in and get out there. Certification and ongoing skills will really depend on what you sink your teeth into. Employers would probably rather see you with a good base education and solid entry level experience than more degrees than a thermometer, and no experience. Depending on the job you should also have ongoing training that may be job specific, and paid by the employer. As for motorcycle or diesel, diesel. Motorcycles (Besides being seasonal up here) are toys. Times get tough, the economy gets bad, or what have you, and people don't drive them as much, sell them, don't buy new ones... It's a flexible market, and a cycle shop that gets slow may not keep you employed. Diesel trucks are always on the move, and need to be maintained. I think coming up here, light diesels are going to be making a solid comeback. They already kind of have, but I think this is just the tip. Rob