WBKrazy

i say go ahead and do it.... when the 2.5 blew in mine i was very tempted to get rid of it for parts cause i have too many vehicles and no time, but once i looked into doing the 4.0 swap and how (relatively) easy it is i decided to keep it, mostly cause the body was too clean to just sell it to someone who would cut it up.. i picked up a motor from mike (comanche87) and a parts donor xj from someone in CT for $200 and i'm doing the 4.0 and 4x4 swap and ive been making time to work on it...

wow! -72, -25, -40... now i feel bad complaining about it being 9 out :rotf:

finally got around to starting the swap! me and mike (comanche87) pulled the 2wd front axle out and the header panel off, then i had to go to work

i see em every once in a while, there's a white one that looks pretty beat that goes by my house every now and then... stopped to get gas the other day, and there was a REALLY beat blue one in the parking lot... saw a clean sporttruck not that long ago too

ah, thats right.... sorry I'm stuck on chevys, just did a water pump on an express van w/ a 6.0 at work :rotf: but the pulley can still be used without the fan blade and clutch so the belt doenst have to be changed... not sure if the bearing in that piece can be changed or not, you might be better off hunting for that assembly at the pick and pull....

the fan pulley is attached to the water pump, if that's making noise the water pump should start leaking pretty soon :rotf: if theres any up and down or side to side play in the water pump shaft it's getting ready to die, probably at a very innoportune time .... removing the fan from the engine is no problem, you just take the fan hub off and bolt the pulley back on the motor without the fan blade and clutch, and the belt won't be any different cause you're not changing any of the pulleys, just removing the fan... as far as attaching the electric fan to the radiator and wiring it up, ill let someone else who's actually done it answer that one...

i have a signature series wheel in mine, what model did you install? the challenger, classic and signature series all have different ways of powering the horn.... if it's a signature series wheel, the wire coming up from the column will attach right to the horn button and you don't use the plastic ring in the install kit.... if it's a challenger or classic here's a diagram from grant http://64.60.165.189/install/FORM5.html

some cars look cool like that, but this one, not so much.. my favorite one that i've seen was a 2-door dodge k-car jacked up on a 4x4 frame of sorts with a plow on it.. that looked kinda neat

i don't believe the bigger tank will fit, maybe if mounts differently? :dunno:

welcome to the site! good to see another (somewhat) local member, the granite state isnt too far away... and yes 94 and up seats take a lot more work to install than 86-93 ones.... on the older ones its just a matter of removing the cherokee mount brackets and installing the comanche ones on the seat tracks... took me about an hour and a half to do the swap in mine...

not sure if they have anything that big, but on ebay there's a guy selling plug kits for old police cruisers to plug the holes left by removal of the antennas and such... try an ebay search under police interceptor, thats how i found him....

that was pretty cool

did you remove the clutch master cylinder? and if so what did you use to cover the hole in the firewall? I'm pretty sure i'm going to take it out so it doesn't wind up puking on the fusebox, just looking for ideas to plug the hole up.....

the dizzy is not adjustable....adjusting it messes with the fuel delivery somehow, but doesn't actually change the timing.. in order to make sure that it's set right, you need to bring the #1 cylinder to TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke. to do this you pull the #1 spark plug out and pull the coil wire off so it doesnt start, and using a remote start switch or a buddy inside the truck, crank the engine while holding your finger in the plug hole, and when it blows your finger out of the hole, stop cranking and then turn the crank damper with a wrench until the 0 mark on the damper lines up with the pointer on the engine... then pull the cap off and see where the rotor is pointed, if it's not pointed at the #1 wire terminal adjust it so it is....

when buying or restoring a vehicle, i try to use the "2 out of 3" rule.... the 3 being interior, exterior/underbody, and drivetrain.... if it doesn't have 2 good things out of those 3 i'll usually pass on it or part it out.... good luck in your endeavors tho!

it's still sitting, awaiting surgery.... but me and mike stripped some more parts off the xj this morning..... soon thatll be done, and i'll have to pull the 2wd tube off my mj and throw it under the xj so i can roll it to the scrapyard... then the mj swap begins!

we need a square state, it'll cost less to fence it off..... :rotf:

:agree: external is the way to go!

first time i ever rode in one was back in the high school daze :chillin: , a kid that lived near me had a red one and i would catch a ride home from him every once in a while... i found mine on craigslist about 2 years ago now, when gas was 5.00 a gallon.... and my daily driver was a 91 fullsize bronco... started out looking for a honda or toyota for the mpg's and wound up with the jeep :rotf: the MJ was one of the first ads that popped up, and i looked at it and said "hmmm, 4cyl, 4spd, must get pretty good mileage" and looked at a few more ads, but kept coming back to the jeep, cause let's face it: jeep pickups are just cooler than hondas and toyotas :rotf: ... never had a jeep before this one, i went to look at it and i was pretty impressed for the price: it had 98k on the clock, and no rust, except for a hole in the p.side floor... the guy said he bought it for his brother in law, but BIL never paid him so he took the truck back and resold it... he wanted $950, but i ended up talking him down to 8... and just like everyone else on here the damm thing just became an addiction... i just wanted to drive it as is and not care, but it wouldn't let me :dunno: .... the plan was to drive it around and resell it after gas came back down, but the more i drove it the more i liked it, so i wound up selling the bronco. still wanted a big truck though, so after gas prices came back down again i picked up the '95 silverado i have today... soon after i bought the chevy i blew up the 2.5 in the mj trying to act a fool... so i picked up a 91 sonoma to replace it with (or so i thought)... didnt wind up that way tho, and soon it will be reborn with 4.0 power , an aw-4 and a 231!.... just gotta finish stripping all that stuff out of my parts pig..

afterwards, i think i found this place on a google search for jeep forums... not too sure that was many beers ago :cheers:

sorry about that :doh: ..... 3.55's

toyo open country a/t's... theyre a little pricey but just like anything else you get what you pay for....

sounds good, ill check them out.. thanks!

:rotf: i keep my change in the ashtray just for that very reason :rotf:

anyone know what the 88 paint codes mean? dasbulliwagen ran my vin and the color codes are listed as px6 and qx6... i can't find any site that shows what they mean, and i was wondering if the truck was originally black or not cause it's a pioneer.. anyone have an idea? :dunno: