Rockfrog

I used the same spacer/adapters on my XJ before I got the 35's on 15" wheels Use Red loctite to mount the adapters, a screwdrivwer in the .rotor vents works to stop the fronts from spinning if you don't have a helper to hold the brakes on.

So loading my daughters quad (a 1986 Suzuki LT185 - so fairly small) in and out of the bed and I have noticed an issue with the tailgate. the top portion of the gate is seperating from the main body at the seam. I was thinking of making a plate to tie the two sections together ... similar to a door panel ... I would have it run top to bottom and botled in place with 1/4" riv-nuts (not the cheap home depot kind). it was either that or I use 1/8" flat bar and have "straps welded between the two section and run top to bottom of the gate following the contours inside the tailgate. Think this would work? Lately I have been pulling the tailgate and attaching the ramps to the bumper, but I would like to be able to close the tailgate with the quad in the back for added security without having to pull and reinstall everytime.

I ended my confusion by replacing the Renix era Oil Filter Adapter nipple with a block nipple from a 92 4.0L ... now I use the 3/4-16 filter. My 92 2.5L used the same 3/4-16 filter thread so its possible the swap can happen there as well. I just buy bulk ford FL1A's or Purolator PL30001's these days. Plus I can walk into a Walmart to find a filter if I had to ... couldn't do that for the metric filter.

When I did the rad in my 2000 XJ it all looked good. I just figured after 14 years it was time and I happened to have the spare cash (was $125 cdn which was less than I expected). Then I jammed the hose into the drain and plugged the outlet. Bounced form outlet to inlet and all of a sudden I got a rush of crap and rusty crud. Then it flowed like new again. Swapped the rad anyway and now that old stock one is in my MJ working fine now. Might be worth it to at least pull the rad and give it a good flushing ... it could just be paryially plugged.

OK starting to sound like its time for a new pump then ... or a new rad.

Sounds like the fan clutch is failing ... when you gas it the air flow and water flow increases cooling the motor. if it was overheating all the time I would suspect the water pump, but tyou only notice it at idle ... when the only airflow comes from the fan.

earlier CJ filters were 13/16-16 so that may have been the issue there ... I wasn't able to get an M20 fitler onto the 3/4-16 nipple either (had a brain fart).

I would expect you won't like the looks of the inside of the valve cover ... and can likely expect some new noises as the clean oil disolves some of the deposits. I got a similar surprise in my 4.0L ... although it does maintain 40psi over 1500rpm and about 20 at idle now. It bounced around a bit when I got it. The valve cover was a nightmare, and the oil filter was seized to the adapter. I now have a tapping noise at idle but nothing at speed amd plenty of power so I'm hoping its a manifold leak. Wrong pitch for lifters, too high and inconsistent to be rods. Going to swap the pump and rod bearings anyway. If its running strong without noises ... is it at all possible there are deposits blocking the pressure port but not the main galleries? I would expect an engine with little to no oil pressure to make some nasty noises. I know my 2.5L did when the pressure sensor in my old YJ blew up, emptying the crank case on the way home one night. Not something I care to hear again.

should be a tag on your firewall indicating the stock filters thread and pitch ... the filter you have posted appears to be a metric filter and should be M20x1.5

M10x1.5 I just made my own tacky skull knob using a threaded coupler and a resin skull. Originally my MJ had the Hurst T-handle which drove me nuts (found it retardedly uncomfortable) FYI - CJ/YJ were 3/8"-16

I have the same cup holder as the OP posted. It works OK but I don't trust it to hold my coffee (some cups are the right size to wedge in but most aren't). I'm thinking of cutting the bottoms out and replacing with marine cup holders if the hole bothers me.

So I grabbed some updated pictures on the drive to work this morning. Picked up a free truck box a few weeks back. PO had lost the keys, a little ingenuity and it works great but just no locks (Delta no longer supplies replacements). Meh, if someone wants my gum boots and tow ropes that badly they can have them.

I've heard of a few trying them but thats as far as its ever gone. Down on the axle ... at least around here ... they'd get ripped off. My concern would be the same ... will they allow enough air movement ... drive axles get surprisingly hot.

your best insurance is a brass nipple, and some hose and run it up into the engine bay. The breather needs to breath in both directions as the diff gets hot the air and oil inside expand. When you cross a creek you create a rapid cooling situation that can actually suck water in through the seals if the diff is unable to breathe properly. FYI - those are just stock Kawasaki ATV diff bellows for twice the price. If I was going to use those I'd still run a line up the engine bay ... but a double coil on the end of the hose, or the breather caps hornbrod posted work better and cheaper IMO.

A 249 chain and sprocket with front out put shaft will give you a 1.25"chain and 32 spline front out put. The same parts from an np241dhd will push the chain to 1.5". I'm going with the 1.5"chain and 32 spline front output on mine for the MJ. Just because I already have the parys in the garage.

The caliper can be removed without disconnecting the brakelines. Did you only try once? After brake work the piston is bottomed and sometimes takes a few pumps of the pedal to get full braking back.

Currently have parts ready for the spring revamp ... 1995 ZJ D30/D35 combo disk brake rear. D35 is cheap and suits my needs for now (235/75/15 max tire size for now) 1989 XJ np242 4wd Ba 10/5 tail housing 1992 HO head 1992 XJ tilt column with padded wheel. 2000 4.0 valve cover 1999 intake (just because I have one) 1994 exhaust manifold 19lb mustang injectors 1994 fuel rail GM lowering shackles Stock XJ 4wd springs 1.75" coil spacers And am currently making a TPS adapter similar to the hesco unit just crap loads cheaper. And a paint job in bright metallic blue when the rains stop and the weather warms up.

If you can only get two turns ... check the threading ... it's going to be either metric or standard. But when you try to mix them (M10 & 3/8-16) it will start to bind after a full turn. I can't recall what the AX4 is but my old AX5 was a standard thread (3/8-16) where as my current Peugeot is Metric (M10).

And to finish the update ... picked up some wheels off a 1998 TJ and the motor started knocking/ticking after the oil change ... it's slowly getting better though so I'll just keep changing the oil. Sounds like a mix of valve tick and exhaust leak so maybe a cracked manifold. And a gummed up lifter or twelve. Replaced the stock vinyl buckets which were torn and ripped with cloth 92 XJ 2dr buckets. Tossed the turdy Hurst T-handle shift knob for one I made. I'll snap some pics later can't for a couple days yet.

Replaced the non working b-pillar lights with Euramtecs More recently replaced the fast orange bottle coolant tank with one from a 92. Relocated things a bit using the 92s pdc bracket and the chopped up Renix one. Will eventually move the coil module tonthe firewall but here's where it is now.

Gave her a tune up and deleted the NFG EGR system. Cleaned up the vacuum lines and replaced some with 3/16" brake line. Moved the vacuum reservoir the the firewall and cleaned up the heater hoses from the heater valve delete. Then came the first oil change ... holy crap did this sucker fight ... Had to rip the filter apart, get to the base and use two allen keys in the oil ports, a crescent wrench to those and a big arse bar through the hole in the handle. Even then it was all I could do to spin that beast. Did the Valve cover gasket and the crud confirm my suspicions that shes led a hard life with few oil changes. Replaced the M20 nipple with a 3/4-16 oil filter nipple ... so now I can used a standard filter common to the MJ and the XJ. Swapped some SAE guages in place of the Canadian Metric guages for oil pressure and Temp. Of course after that I lost the clock and radio ... so ... Marrets have no place in my dash. Returned the wiring back to stock and rewired the stereo. Still don't get any am/fm (had three antenna wires under the dash all leading to stubs) but the stereo works. Then I lost the wipers during a rainstorm ... turned out the breaker was toast ... it fell apart when I pulled it. Had to mickey duck a fix witha modern breaker as thats all the parts stores that were open at 9pm had.

So figured I may as well toss a thread up on the MJ. Picked her up from a old guy that was no longer able to drive. 2wd 1988 MJ 4.0 Ba10/5 d35. She's far from perfect but she does what is required at this time. E-brake doesn't work anymore ... but the entire brake system was redone before parking. Ebrake held until I released it so maybe just sticking. Anyway ... The day she came home. First issue ... Replaced with ... Leftovers from a cooling revamp on my 2000 XJ. It wasn't as easy as expected ... every screw was rusty to the point of ... Had to rebuild with some creative use of JB weld to recreate the bosses after drilling to removenthe rusty stubs.

Yep they are on their way to me.

My XJ retains the 231 as it is the trail rig ... my MJ on the other hand will receive a 242 when I do the 4wd conversion this spring. I use the MJ for getting to and from work (250 km each way) year round. I want it for the winter driving ... otherwise I would throw a 231 in it for simplicity. Just my take on the subject

The pinion snout for both of these axles are longer ... in short, they are simply bigger.