Rockfrog

Meh, even with the missing passenger rear taillight lines (actually the top one is the short bevel body line) it looks killer. And the only people that would even notice would be a bunch of retentive enthusiasts like us. I knew there was a flaw in the design when I bought mine, sure it's not quite perfect, but other than me, anyone else looking isn't even going to see it ... Unless I pointed it out. But sounds like it'll be fixed for the future buyers. Does this make my shirts a limited edition now? Hehe, like a botched coin or stamp run. Gonna be worth millions one day! Still my favourite shirt! Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The studded bolts were used for additional attachment points (harness brackets) and such. I usually move them to where I need them. The stock bolts can be used a maximum of 2 times past initial install as per my most recent FSM (2000). The head bolts didn't change as far as length and threading is concerned, just the hex design did and metallurgy of the bolt (12pt vs 6pt head) so use what you wish there. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Now that's damn funny ... Shipping to me is $12.97US ... Add exchange and it's $24.87 ... So pretty much $25 CDN ... Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I usually buy the base parts of the connectors (M/F terminals, seals) and reuse the bodies from my plethora of old wiring harnesses. The terminals and seals (and bodies) are readily available at Napa and such, for relatively decent cost, a 3 pin M/F package was about $25 CDN, so about $5 US I imagine nowadays. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Well, because it's a 3 wire plug ... One could always change the entire connector to a commonly available 3 wire weatherpack connector. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah, the later header moved it to the inside edge of the fender where it is easily reached. Then one more down below the headlight behind the turn signal. From the looks of it, swapping to a later front fender (or to the 97+ if you're planning the full front clip and not just a header) will fix that. Both that stud and where it attaches to the fender are gone with those particular parts. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

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Yeah, answer the above and we'll have a better idea of where to go. If they are used calipers, they may simply need to be replaced. The stock Chrysler calipers had a habit of seizing when left to sit for long periods of time (well, and whenever they felt like it as well it seems). As further many caliper designs have a tendency to seize when left to sit as well. If they sat for a long time (in caliper speak anything over about 5 months) that may be the issue. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

There were only two types of caliper used, AMC and Chrysler, neither is compatible with the other. There were 3 types of rotor used though. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

How does the fender mount up? The 97+ has angle brackets to the subframe that the fenders mount to. Then the header mounts to the fenders. So, if you can find a way of adapting those brackets the rest should be easy. The rest of the fender mounts are just holes with speed nuts added. Looking at your pics the problems are mainly gone with the stock fenders/header Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Two simple checks ... 1. Check fuel pressure (pressure should be 30-31psi with the regulator connected and 39psi with it disconnected). 2. Run a jumper on the ballast resistor (white block on inside of drivers front fender - wires are orange with black trace). If the filter is right plugged, or the ballast resistor is NFG ... You describe the exact symptoms. With a dead ballast resistor the pump will prime the rail, then once the engine fires, power for the pump is routed through that resistor. You get about a period of run time and then she'll stall out. A fuel filter is cheap if you haven't replaced it, may as well now so it can be checked off the list. Edit - you mentioned you already changed it, cross that one off. Have you tested the EGR system yet? If it's opening when it shouldn't it'll stall the motor as well. Disconnect and plug the vacuum line for it. Add a piece of hose and add vacuum. Should see the diaphragm moving. It should be normally closed. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yes, but rpm's and gears are matched to a particular motors power peaks. The 4cyl makes power in a different range than a 6 ... Wana try a 4cyl 5spd with 3.07 gears and stock tires? The inverse is the same with a 6cyl and 4.56 gears. Like I said, what makes a 4cyl happy doesn't work for the 6. I'm also pretty positive the 4cyl would barely move rolling 35's with an AW4 and 4.56 gears. It all comes down to where the motor likes to live within those rpm's. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah, I see it, was looking at it with crossed eyes again. I stand corrected. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

From my understanding, the MJ's emergency circuit simply bypasses the LSV (prop valve) in the event of front brake failure, supplying the rears with full brake pressure regardless until the condition is resolved. The XJ prop valve does not need this, due to its design. In the event of a front circuit failure pressure will build, open the prop valve and full pressure to the rear is achieved. FYI - the MJ and XJ share the same brake warning switch and shuttle design. Slap an XJ prop valve in there and plug in the switch plug and you'll still have a warning light that will function just as it always did. Wanna guess how I know? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

With a 4cyl and an automatic, which would be about right for the 4cyl considering it was generally 4.10 with a manual. About the same jump as 3.07 to 3.55 with the 4.0L. What is good for the 4 is not so much for the 6. If I put stock tires on I'd hit redline quick fast and blow the low revving 6 to hell and back just as fast. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Were it me I'd grab a spare ecm, distributor, IAT, ICM and a A/C delete pulley if I saw one. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

235 75r15's and 4.10's will have you screaming down the highway. If you are mostly driving around town, it will definitely improve mileage. The trans will shift quickly through the gears and the whole drive train will work less. As soon as you hit the highway you'll also wind out quickly and be revving very high (for a 4.0) rpm's. The 4.0 seems happiest between 1800 and 2400 rpm. Over that and you are burning fuel for fun, and below that you are lugging and burning fuel to keep up. I'm swapping an 8.8 3.73 into my MJ, but I have a manual, 32's and aspirations to tow a load (with plans to drop to 31's). But, if you find you need to travel the highway more, toss a set of 32's on and the AW4 will roll in prime mileage territory for the highway. As an example my XJ rolls on 35's with 4.56 gears and an AW4 behind the 4.0 ... I limit myself to 2500rpm as I don't want to be screaming the motor down the highway, and that limits me to about 110kph (so what about 65mph) and the speed limit is 120kph. I can go faster, but the fuel tank empties faster. If I drive 90kph (about 60mph) it actually saves me a lot of fuel. Around town I get about equivalent to highway mileage (likely because of how I drive). But she's built for the trail, not the pavement, she just has to get there over it. It's all give and take, what works in stop and go, generally sucks on the highway, and what works on the highway generally sucks around town. If you mainly do stop and go driving, why calculate a gear need based on an 80mph speed? Try 55mph and go there. My MJ mainly sees highway time and until I was going to tow 3.55 was my desired ratio as 3.07 and 32's knocked me from 21mpg (w/ 235/75r15) down to 18mpg. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah, in the cutaway ... The RT front comes out through the shuttle valve cap. And if anyone is still curious how the XJ prop valve works ... There is no emergency bypass circuit as it was labelled back when this thread started. That is the rear circuit itself. Each braking circuit is fully independent of the other (as is the MJ systems). Input passes through the shuttle and into the propotioning valve/spring. The valve is a simple brass seat valve that prevents application of the rear brakes until enough pressure is achieved to actuate the valve (which is set by the springs rate). At which time braking pressure is passed through to the rear circuit. The rubber oring seal is simply there to keep fluid out of the spring chamber. The sealing is done at the tapered end of the valve body (to the left of the rubber seal). The earlier GM and Chevy valves used to retain pressure behind the rubber seal and so had to be disabled to allow pass through bleeding. Modern valves limit application until that pressure is achieved (essentially working backwards). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Cool, thanks, see if I can find that after this work shift. Good to know it's still available. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The vehicle is already wired for a tach, they all were from the factory. Hence remove the old cluster and pop in the new cluster with Tach and it works. One could also pull the needed signals (power, ground, tach signal) from the main cluster plug of the stock cluster. But for all that hassle a drop in stock cluster looks less hacktastic, and a decent aftermarket tach would take up a lot of room inside a vehicle with quite limited real estate. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Front one, right where it goes into the pedal assembly. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Got mine yesterday, awesome sauce! Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

In other news, should have a 3.73 lsd 8.8 in the rear in 2 weeks time. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Went to apply the ebrake yesterday .... SNAP! Awesome, with my luck it's another non existent part. Yay. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Finished the taillights at least. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk