48MJ

Comanche "frame" rails are totally different from a Cherokee. They are thicker, hence the different seat brackets.

Have 3 long beds and 2 short beds. Prefer the long beds for the utility. And they wheel good where I like to go.

Are Cherokees the same?

Also the 86- 2.5 is the same as 87. They did the throttle body injection in 86. Just to add that they are the same set up.

I almst always swap the seat bottoms because of how the bolsters wear.

Several companies make front receivers try etrailer.

I don't carry the stock jack any more. So I use a large flat blade screwdriver to raise and lower the spare tire.

At least test the CPS. II bought a new one and that was how mine was running. Till I tested and replaced it.

Check the bolts on the thermostat housing. One time I mixed them up and the one from the passenger side was to long for the blind hole on the drivers side. It turned out to be just barely to long and would not let it tighten the gasket but looked good till you would start it then it would leak.

I don't know where you could get one. They told me it was for cold climate operation and not needed here in Oregon where I live, don't know about Maine. Your carb might be the problem, they are a lot of the problems with the 2.8. They are a lean burn carb (electronic control 2 stage 2 barrel). Make sure the choke is set right. Just throwing out ideas, hope some of it helps. I drove one of these for about 15 years and might have a decent carb laying around.

Why delete it's the same as an MJ. And I can't figure out if it's in the switch or ground or something else. By the way I've got 5 MJ's and 4 XJ's and this seems strange what it is doing, so just trying to find out what it is. If this is the way you want to treat someone with an XJ problem fine. But any help would be greatly appreciated.

I know the ground is in the left tail light housing on an MJ but where is it on a 87 XJ. Think I might have a ground issue because the fuel pump only comes on once in a while. If the pump comes on it starts if no pump, no start. It has a new fuel pump and I can turn the key on and off to get the pump to come on, sometimes the pump works and other times not. It also has a new CPS and distributor because this is a problem that happens off and on. Thinking ground?

I use a simple Nikon L28, works great. Point and shoot plus uses AA batteries that I pack everywhere for flashlights anyway. If I wanted I could use re chargeable in it. I hate proprietary batteries especially when they have to be in the camera to charge them.

I've got a tan one from a 2 wheel drive "87". PM me if still wanted.

I have a drawtite front receiver on mine, works great. I think it also helps tie the front of the frame together. But I also use the factory front tow hook brackets to tie even more together. Just don't put the tow hooks on them. Sometimes even carry a winch in the receiver with my removable winch carrier.

I've got several Comanches one with about a 3.5" bastard pack and one with a spring over. Both work great I don't think new spring perches and welding should cost a fortune. The bastard pack does work great though. It is 7 leaves and flexes well, it is on a truck that I used for towing and did not want the soa height and wanted to keep it a little stiffer. A bastard pack is very experimental your kind of on your own. SOA is better for knowing what the outcome will be but will probably be about 5.5" ( thats about what I got). It pretty much depends on what you want to use your truck for. The long arm is just on the front and over 3.5" I would recommend a long arm set up for the ride and flex.

I've locked the disconnect on 2 Comanches and never had any issues. They discontinued the disconnect later on all of them. But if you have bad u-joints I'd recommend replacing them anyway. That way they won't go out on the trail or the highway and cause more damage. Just my two cents.

hornbrod, just went out in my shop, I thought both short bed I had got were the same so I dug them out. The earlier set were just like the long bed, so I checked the others. Evidently they were going to lower it, thy were Cherokee springs. My memory was wrong, they were two different spring sets. Sorry about that, but now I know they are the same long or short. Thank you, by the way Comanches Rule they are the best.

hornbrod, not trying to be problem but my springs were pulled off of stock Comanches. If you look at the date of the chart it was 3-23-86, they only had the long bed for the 86 model. Short bed came in 87 to the end of production. Most of the after market knows nothing about Comanches. My short bed springs are already pulled off and I don't have the rear frames anylonger. But I would like someone to take a pic of short bed springs under a truck with a tape measure beside them. Because I didn't realize they were different until I bought these and compared them. Thank you

I run long beds 2 and 4 wheel they all appear to use the same springs. But I have lately bought two short beds for parts, the springs are not even close. They are about 7" shorter on the short bed with different style eyes. Now these short beds are both 2 wheel drive (don't think it makes any difference). But if my long bed springs were on a short bed the rear shackles would be mounted on the bumper. The long beds are around 57" and the short beds are around 50"

4.0 or 2.5

Don't forget to make sure the rubber nipple is on the end of the sending unit. They sometimes fall off when removing the sender. And without it you will get more vibration. Also probably harder on the sender.

I have a one piece rear glass in Corvallis,Or, let me know if interested.

Also keep the lock ring centered so it has even pressure on the seal.

I know its a pain to remove the tank. But it is easier to put it together with it flat. Also make sure the the rubber nipple inside the tank is there and in its pocket. Because they sometimes fall off inside the tank when the sender is removed, the nipple keeps it lined up properly and reduces vibration.