Strokermjcomanche

Have you tried lubing the cable ?

If the heater core is original ( and it's still apart ) you might want to replace it anyhow while you're in there .

The load sensing valve is still there and hooked up , it's hidden by the spare tire . I had to flip and reverse the diff bracket, but it stops just fine . I suppose if the truck was loaded heavily that the rod would break so I may have to shorten or make an adjustable rod like you did .

I drove it up and down the street at 35 mph tops and it rode well , but have yet to get it up to freeway speeds . I used two angle finders , one on the spring perch of the old axle and the other parallel with two of the diff cover bolts and transferred that angle to the 8.25 . I didn't fully weld the perches in case I have to change the angle if I get driveline vibrations .

Empty Post

There are (4 or 5 ) clips that hold that trim piece to the dash , they are the same type of clip that holds the radio / gauge cluster bezel . Pulling the trim straight up towards the windshield is how the clips should come out . If your plastic is brittle it may break so try to take it off as careful as you can

Looks good Pete !!

Contact the seller and see about condition if you have Facebook .

I'm guessing that you're looking for a pair of silver / chrome trimmed lights ? 5 minutes of searching found this pair ( not chrome ) for $75 + shipping ( Ontario I know ) but how much could that possibly be ? Not $225

Ice cream anyone ?

If you can get the part numbers that are on the black part of the taillight it will tell you what trim they were ( the pics are not clear enough for me to see them ) . Btw if you post a wanted ad on here a CC member will probably have a better deal on a pair for you ...

There is both chrome and silver on the Laredo taillights . The reason that some people call them silver is that the chrome paint as mentioned above wears off over time , it can even rub off in the boxes they come brand new in . Here is a close up picture showing both the silver and chrome ( that has worn off in some areas ) .

I had an 86 mj that I transferred all the driveline , interior , harnesses etc from a 95 cherokee . Several years after the swap an 80 year old man pulled out in front of me and i t-boned him at 40 mph causing the airbag to blow , the airbag worked as it should . The airbag is strictly mechanical trigger in the 95 xj ( except where the airbag get the signal to blow ), but to install the column one of the bolts at the base of the column needs a hole drilled for it . The dash / radio bezel is also larger around where the steering column goes through the bezel , I used my 86 dash with the 95 harness btw

If it's a factory guard it will bolt on with no more issues than installing it on a 99 xj . If you have a front skid plate it will need two small pieces cut out and the lower valance will need cut as well . Ask me how I know lol..

I'd be a buyer , depending on price etc

Recessed , hopefully in the center of the pan if it doesn't interfere with the hidden hitch .

Sounds good , would love to have a bolt on roll pan !!

Short answer , you're better off getting the correct length bed . The bed and uniframe would need quite a bit of modification as the distance to the wheel openings are different lengths .

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tcu-pin8-wiring-problem-xj-226158/ Here it is

What article? :dunno:I tried to link just the article about the NSS , but I had to scroll down to find it on the link provided . I'll take some snap screen pictures of the thread so no one has to go hunting for it .

I'd be interested in a roll pan . I think the hitch will sit too low and out too much to make a "hidden hitch" feature though .

Just got done reading this article and it suggests that the contacts are different , read and see what you think as I'm not great with wiring .. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/xj-91-95-tcu-wiring-diagram-power-switch-mode-227672/

Although the volt gauge reads around 10 volts , it may be inaccurate and you may need to check the volts at the battery posts , TCM etc with a multimeter . I can't comment on if it's causing your symptoms ...

Power steering fitting for the return hose ?

Here's a good tool to remove / install the rear main . https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-27000-Sneaky-Pete-Tool/dp/B0002SRCJW