Comanche County

:agree: Its on the passenger side firewall...follow the heater hoses and you'll find it. If the vacuum actuator doesn't work you can zip tie it open for a short term fix.

Google is doing this as we speak and it's working.

Version of Elvis

Water in the fluid could be contributing to the boil over. Perhaps bleeding/flushing the lines until all new clear fluid comes out would make a difference,,,,[Edit] in other words: What Eagle said. :D From http://www.aa1car.com/library/bfluid.htm: "An NHTSA survey found that the brake fluid in 20% of 1,720 vehicles sampled contained 5% or more water! As the concentration of moisture increases, it causes a sharp drop in the fluid's boiling temperature. Brand new DOT 3 brake fluid must have a dry (no moisture) boiling point of at least 401 degrees F, and a wet (moisture-saturated) boiling point of no less than 284 degrees. Most new DOT 3 fluids exceed these requirements and have a dry boiling point that ranges from 460 degrees up to over 500 degrees. Only one percent water in the fluid can lower the boiling point of a typical DOT 3 fluid to 369 degrees. Two percent water can push the boiling point down to around 320 degrees, and three percent will take it all the way down to 293 degrees, which is getting dangerously close to the minimum DOT and OEM requirements. DOT 4 fluid, which has a higher minimum boiling temperature requirement (446 degrees F dry and 311 degrees wet) soaks up moisture at a slower rate but suffers an even sharper drop in boiling temperature as moisture accumulates. Three percent water will lower the boiling point as much as 50%! Considering the fact that today's front-wheel drive brake systems with semi-metallic linings run significantly hotter than their rear-wheel drive counterparts, high brake temperatures require fluid that can take the heat. But as we said earlier, the brake fluid in many of today's vehicles cannot because it is old and full of moisture. Water contamination increases the danger of brake failure because vapor pockets can form if the fluid gets too hot. Vapor displaces fluid and is compressible, so when the brakes are applied the pedal may go all the way to the floor without applying the brakes!"

Ah, tension gauge! I found it.

Thanks, does the FSM state how to measure the tension? That Napa link just sent me to their store locator.

If these trucks ever bring real money in an auction it will be the original low mile trucks. I can't believe a low mileage 90's firebird fetched 31K on one of the TV auctions (HD Theater) recently.

I went through a couple of "homeowner" saws in CO. After trying to fix my last poulan pro 20 incher I discovered most of those saws are only good for 50 hrs. They even say that right on the saw in small print! Eventually got a 20 year old McCulloch box saw that ran great and would cut just about anything without bogging down. Never had the money for a Stihl.

If it has a quality commercial plow in good condition and not a smaller residential one, it might be a good deal for what he's asking.

No A/C on this original Colorado truck. I think its the belt because the noise goes away with a new belt with approximately the same tension. But after about 50 or so miles it starts again. The last belt did it at idle, the new belt on it now waits until 1500-2000 rpms to start whining and whines consistently on the highway at around 2500 rpms. When I remove a whining belt, I find that the flat side is glazed and I believe that is the main indicator where the problem lies. Some pulley is glazing the flat side....is that possible,,,,does that make sense? I've tried belt squeal spray but I think that just masks the problem and isn't a long term solution and can actually contribute to the problem later on. I refuse to spray anything on the new belt that's on it now, Perhaps its just a tension issue? Serpentines really don't need much tension and if I tighten it too much I'm afraid I will cause a bearing to burn out. Maybe I just need to crank it down? Or do I have it too tight? Question,,,how do I measure tension? I know about the 1/2" of travel rule of thumb if you push the belt up and down. What is the tension spec for a serpentine on a Renix 4.0 and is there a specific place between pulleys to measure? The only tool I've got to measure resistance of that sort is a compound bow pulley which would give me an approximate measure of resistance in lbs.

IMHO I think you simply need a new clutch set.

Any updates?

I'm going to Jeep Hell! :fs1: I didn't grab that bumper because it was 110 degrees when I found that MJ. I went back last week to get it.......(you know what's coming) because it's a lot cooler now... and they crushed it of course. I had a specific conversation with the JY owner about the MJ and told him I would buy practically everything on it but I guess it didn't work,,,,The bed was perfect too. I'm sorry guys. Let the flogging commence.

Thanks Brandon. I especially like the color and striping on yours. :D

Nice find! I really like those XJ limited leather seats,,,and please keep the AMC 20 in it!

Good news! My clock started working. Not sure what happened but I'll take it when I get it. I also picked up some street meats for the MJ off of CL just now. 35/12.5/15" Dick Cepek Fun Country IIs. The ride is so much better on the highway than the bias ply Creepy Crawlers. They're lighter and my mpg improved on the way back to the house. They're still louder on the highway than I'd like, but much quiter than the Creep Crawlers and they'll do just fine. The PO only put 2.5K on the tires and they're practically brand new. I got 5 of them on new D windows and the spare has never touched the ground. The Maxxis tires will now be trail only, which is what they're for anyway... It was dark and my truck looks like the backside of a well ridden donkey but here's the pics:

I just swapped the booster on my MJ, it did the same thing until I tightened the four nuts that hold the booster to the firewall. Check these in the pic below and ensure they're tight, not super tight, just snug....then check for leaks in the hose and grommets that connect to the booster (in the engine bay). There should not be a hole in the side of the transmission that allows you to "see" inside the case. Sounds like a plug is missing, not sure though...there should be two plugs on the side of the tranny. One to fill it and one to drain it. The fill plug is higher than the drain plug. If the lower plug is missing then get a plug immediately (someone here should be able to tell you what the thread is, I don't know off hand but it should be the same as the other plug) get a cheap lube pump which is available at any auto parts store and pump fluid in until it flows out of the higher plug. Then your trans if full. I hope that's not the grinding noise you hearing.

As simple as this problem seems to track down and solve --- I haven't. I've tried three new belts, all of them squeal louder than Ned Beatty at a Georgia Redneck Canoe festival. :D All pulleys seem to be aligned - or are they? I've tried the wire brush technique, haven't tried the soap trick yet. I've shopped around for a Gatorback belt which I hear are the best - no joy. I've tried different tensions,,,,nothing stops it. It is the belt for sure, all pulleys seem to be fine. Anyone else had it this bad? p.s. This is getting aggravating, especially since losing high frequency hearing in my left ear in Iraq (thanks a lot you Ansar al Sunna Schmucks)...so my hearing aid amplifies that belt squeal which annoys the crap out of me.

I'm putting synthetic in mine tomorrow.

JP mag just did an article on Ryobi Tek4 tools. One of those temp gauges can be bought at home depot for 70 bucks,,,,ouch http://www.homedepot.com/Featured-Produ ... ogId=10053

I believe the autos were 42REs. Inconsequential as it may be.

Ensure its a Comanche, then buy it!

Its easy especially for the D35 if you can find a ZJ donor with a 35 and discs. The AMC 20 I'm sure is possible too but I haven't researched that swap. Here's my rear disc swap links FWIW. http://www.iitp.com/techcenter/reardisk ... ersion.htm http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... csOnXJ.htm http://www.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearDiscs1.htm ( I love Aussies btw) Do a search for Crown Vic rear discs and you'll find more info.

The reason I think the pressure plate is weak is that you said it does fine when you get it rolling....I take that as actually driving it down the road. Most pressure plates work better when they have centrifugal force applied,,,as when they are spinning, they exhibit more force on the clutch disc and the effect seems to allow you to "shift" almost normally or at least better than when starting from a stop. Question, do you have to rev the engine any extra when starting out in first gear to get the clutch to engage?

hehe, you're funny Don... :cheers: