87Warrior

Good luck. I have zero patience for sellers who play games or don't do as they say. I didn't realize you were in the KC area. I was in Shawnee today with a buddy picking up a transmission for his Toyota.

X2. The MJ is a light truck, the bronco is a heavy pig.

I put 99 XJ buckets in my 86 MJ that had a bench. Used the XJ seat, brackets and the front brace (cut out of the XJ) and stuck it all in my truck. Seats sit about 3" taller than the worn out bench, but are comfy for me, even at 6'3".

Factory Service Manual.

I plan to build an off-road teardrop trailer on a 1/4 ton military trailer frame a buddy has behind his shop. I hope to mix these two, much different, builds: https://sites.google.com/site/buildingateardroptrailer/day-31 http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/18142-Offroad-Teardrop-SawTooth-XL/page39 ...plans are being formulated....

The best step-by-step guide I came across when rebuilding my 03 TJ's 4.0 was the FSM. I have not reviewed a MJ FSM motor guide, but it should be the same as a later model 4.0.

X2. After ripping the frame pins out of my TJ on my first trip down Black Bear pass years ago, I too went with the 'fold-n-bungee' method Mike mentioned. I decided to do the same thing on my 86 when I installed JKS discos as I could not find a suitable location for the pins.

When I was swapping a 4.0 head on my 4.2 I did not notice any intake manifold mating issues. I did have to grind some down on the bottom of the intake manifold due to some alignment pins stuck in the 4.0 head. Real easy fix to see and understand when trying to test fit. This was on a 90YJ with the Carter carb that had stepper needles. Does Offenhauser still offer a 4.2 intake manifold? If so, that coupled with a Weber carb would be slick on a 4.0.

Perhaps a requirement to submit a 'for sale or wanted' classified would be to select your state/providence/country from a drop down menu before submitting the ad. Will the new site format allow anything like that? I know the admin spends A LOT of time requesting folks to put their location in the titles. It is something that has slipped my mind a time-or-two.

There is a wiper 'circuit breaker'. It is about 1/4" x 1" and on the right side of the fuse block. Pull the breaker and check for rust on the terminals. I am not familiar with any procedures to check the functionality of the breaker.

You will need an electric fuel pump with a regulator to drop the pressure down for a carb. A 4.2 intake will bolt to a 4.0 head with very minor grinding and a 4.0 header. Ignition will be the tricky part, but I believe the HEI setup for a 4.2 will work in a 4.0.

That is the slave I installed on my truck. There is an empty bung on the slave which you would assume is for a bleeder valve. I even bought a new one to thread onto the new slave before it arrived. However, the bung is simply a blank 1/4" hole and is not drilled through the case of the slave. Here it is installed on my truck, with the new roller pin plastic hydraulic line and all. No bleeder valve.

There was no bleeder valve on the 95 XJ AX5 slave I bought. It required the manual pumping method to bleed it, which was more convenient than a valve. I purchased the slave and MC from Advance and the line from NAPA. Clutch feels better than in my 03 TJ.

I am enjoying the new format. What I don't like is that it takes twice as long to load the mobile site on my Droid as it did to load the old, full, site.

I used the HF 4x4 ball joint press to do the ball joints on my TJ. Got it for less than $50 when I lived near a harbor freight. It was a slow a tedious job, but it worked as it should since I kept the threads oiled. The only thing you will want to do is use a flat piece of iron on one side of the press when installing the upper joint. This is to keep the press parallel to the joint and perpendicular to the hole the joint goes in. The outter C's have a bit of angle to them. There are two very good YouTube videos of a guy pressing out the ball joints and installing new on an 86 Cherokee. Watch those a few times and you would have no problem.

Love the new features. I'm sure it will take some time to iron out all of the little issues, but I think the crew is doing a fabulous job as it is. Thanks for the hard work guys!

I plan on taking this truck to the local Jeep Jamboree next month so I need to get a few items taken care of. First I had to get a CB installed. What fun is trail running without communication? Old Uniden out of my TJ: Old antenna and mount from my fathers TJ: Ran the Coax through the bed and into the cab near the fuel pump harness. 20' of Coax was about 2' too long, but I wrapped it behind the passenger seat to prevent loops: Then I installed an old set of JKS disconnects I had laying around.....and tested her out in the back yard: My shocks are a little short..... Now I need to get an order placed for some front towhooks/brackets. Can't be without recovery points!

New site looks good. When viewing from my mobile phone I am still viewing the full site and am unable to reply to messages. I am sure it is something on my end. What is the web address for the mobile site?

Did your new friend give you any rust free MJ parts to haul up north? :brows: What a great collection of pictures. Looks like you guys saw a lot of country!

I agree. Ever since the Gladiator concept came out in, was it 2005??, I have wanted one. But, seeing as we are quickly approaching 10 years of Chrysler dangling 'truck' concepts over our heads, I will continue to drive my 20 year old truck and be happy. I actually decided to dive in to my 92 to the extent I have to quench any lust I had/have for the Brute. MJ = way more useful than a Brute.

First of all, Welcome to the madness! :waving: Check out the classifieds for the parts you are looking for. If nobody is selling.them now, just keep a close watch. Also post a 'wanted' ad. If you plan on wheeling your truck, be sure to take it out bone stock then bone stock with the swaybar disconnected. I think you will be surprised how well it will do. Find out what is the trucks biggest limitation for your style of wheeling and.start building from there. My idea of a perfect MJ is probably quite a bit different than yours. That's why there is no secret equation to get your dream truck. There is no need to fix what isn't broke, especiall in the beginning, unless it doesn't suit your needs. My 86 4cyl has 166k miles on it and purrs down the road quite nicely.

If it was driveline related, a deceleration vibration is usually caused by a pinion angle that is too low. Is there any way we could get an audio/visual aid? Being able to hear the rattle would help out quite a bit ;)

Daaaaaang, that truck is clean! D44 rear ends use a 1330 series u joint vs the 1310 found with the 35 (and 30). If you do end up using your factory driveshaft (shortened) you will need a 1330/1310 u joint. As Correy stated, if the yard truck had the same driveline combo as your current truck, the driveshaft from the yard truck will simply bolt in.

Neato! I hope you don't run into many, if any, issues.

Not quite. Adjusting the draglink will only center the wheel. Draglink = Centers steering wheel Tie Rod = Adjusts toe Even a rig with toe that is slightly off shouldn't pull to one side or the other. It just can't do it due to the design of the system. But if the toe is not set, it could accentuate another problem.