yxmj

I am not a professional motor builder......I have had my hands on my share of AMC inline 6's.....how you lost 25% of your fuel in one minute......WoW......i do not know what you are doing but the nut that holds the lifter one needs to be @ 19 lbs.....and even if it was off by a pound.......I do not understand how it would affect your fuel consumption.............are you confusing adjusting the "valves" that let fuel in the motor and exhaust gassesout to..... adjusting your carb??????.....

Please explain to my simple uneducated mind.....how you get predictable results from a "scavenged" or JY spring.... .There are many who have made bastard packs....and have been quite successful....please quote the ones who could predict the results........... .Maybe you want to rename "bastard pack" after yourself......i have successfully made many but do not have the ego to name them after me perhaps your accuracy would serve well in other fields aside from choosing junkyard springs?

Well ... yes, but no. Not really. There are two advantages to using the XJ main leaves, and they are related. Using leaves out of another set of XJ springs means that the arch is correctly matched to your springs, so you don't have the AAL fighting against the other leaves in the pack. The other advantage is that you pretty well know how much lift you'll get: 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". If you need more than an inch and a half, then you can either use multiple leaves from the donor XJ packs, or go with leaves that have more native arch. The problem is that the one leaf with more arch is doing a lot of work, and it may get fatigued and sag fairly quickly. It's much better if the arch in all the leaves matches. You are assuming that he has a set of XJ leafs to scavenge from....I simply left him an intelligent option that should it be more economically feasible for him to scavenge from other sources it would be possible for him to accomplish his goal of taking the sag out easily and cheaply.........IMHO

Like eagle says that would be the easy/cheapest way. I would just add that you do not have to limit yourself to cherokee springs....any spring the right width (i believe they will be 2.5"....but measure them to be sure)....S10's. Dakota's would be possible candidates. My wife has a nice 2000 XJ that had a rear sag (the jeeps rear not hers) ....and I used a top leaf off of a full sized D150 it brought it up perfect giving the truck a nice 1.25" rake back to front. You should probably get some new longer U-bolts and pack clamps. One last thing....having done this a couple of times....it is possible......and easy..... to do an add a leaf on a XJ without taking the whole leaf spring off....saves time when you don't have to battle those spring and shackle bolts.

I thought the Tital referd to your avatar.....and i would say 36's for sure :thumbsup:

If the $$ is right it could be worth somthing.....the Hot Rod guys eat them up.....very robust....in-board disc brakes...indy susepention...makes for a desiriable street rod rear end......again if the price is right.

One of these.....and somone who knows how to use it

Well don't say I never offerd.... :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

The front is just an open elbow, i wouls assume the flap would cover it?

Bring the cover bung and plug by and I will weld it it for free.... :thumbsup: Guaranteed to look so factory even Mr. Dana's mother would be proud :thumbsup:

You are correct sir this is the article I had read . http://offroad-review.com/new/index.php?page=68 shouldn't post before the first cup of coffee I guess :dunno:

I would use the Google search......something in my memory says the openings for the water jacket are different.....seem to remember an article about somebody putting foam peanuts in them and plugging them with JB weld?

If you have a hitch maybe this is more to your liking

First I would apologize to the OP for highjacking and getting off topic :offtopic: But to answer you question ....no.....the way i do it the top (opening of the bag) is not closed so air flow might be less....but still avalible......and when i am doing it it a s usally a short burst on the trigger and then a pause.....so over heating is not really an issue.

Not a "Rack" but most guys I know who get into this sport end up on excurtions with multiple people, might be easier to look ahead and go big or go home.... :dunno: Here is a 6 place Kayak trailer I fabbed up for a local guy. The beauty of the trailer is not only can one vehical trasport more than one craft.....but when you get there (or at home for that matter) it also acts as a storage rack.(add a cable and padlock for security) And here is a bit of a heavier vertion I built for a local school....Holds/Hauls 6 16' freighter Canoe's....and as you can see this one has storage for paddles jackets and your other gear....(Check out the reversed Jeep Wheels.....deep dish mag effect) :thumbsup:

No guts involved there buttercup......by this time the deer has been shot/gutted/skinned and hung (i like a minimum of 3 days). The sawzall just makes it so much easier to process it down to consumable sizes. And for those of you who are worried about getting guts on your sawzall here is a little trick we used when we use a sawzall as a concret vibrator for pouring curbs....get an everyday plastic grocery bag (or kitchen catcher garbage bag) stick the saw in so the blade pokes out the bottom and the bag covers and protects the tool....and your hand too if you do it right.... :thumbsup:

i've tried to figure out what's causing my bad mileage, i've played with the spark plugs by gapping them at 45 (like they should be for a normal 2.8), i've tried 35 and 40 (which is the best right now). I've adjusted the valves and i've played with the carbs fuel/air mixure, nothing is helping me get better mileage, i even changed the way i shift, thinking i was shifting too early or too late. I ran out of ideas and can't think of what else could cause such bad mileage, Redwolf Please decribe the process you used to do this?

I love it....amd all of the m12's...I have 2 impacts, the hammerdrill and the 90* drill (and have on order the 3/8 rachet as well as the rotary tool) I have both a small as well as a large battery for each. Getting back to the saw .......not only is it great on the job.....but when I put in my stainless steel blade from Cabela's and turn it into an electric knife on steriods.....I can process a whole deer in about 10 min.. :thumbsup:

:agree: I think youre missing the point Jeep Driver. It is not "moonshine" unless it is made in a still that does not have a tax stamp- Ie it's made by a person not a company. If its sold in the store its not moonshine. lol Ol' smokey isnt moonshine- even their white lighting is only 50% ABV. Everclear is 95% ABV. Everclear is legal moonshine- the closest thing you can get to store bought moonshine. Lmoa that's awesome. You wouldnt have an pictures of it by chance? I'm assuming he made vodka since it has potato in the name lol I don't have pics of his but a quick web search finds some that are very close. http://moonshinedistiller.com/8-gallon-milk-can-distilling-boiler-stainless-steel http://www.hillbillystills.com/milk_can_boilers_s/45.htm And it was set up like this(The pipe was copper and the condenser was another milk jug filled with water) when it was working right you got a flow out of end that would be like turning your kitchen tap down to the point just before it would only drip....just a trickel. And i should clarify that to call it vodka would be reaching....He used more than potatose in the ingrediants (corn even grains).....but there was somthing about the starch in the potatoes (i think it turned to sugar) that made the mix more potant than the other ingrediants :dunno: I do not know the "Proof" .....the only gauge i have is this....the old guys on here will remember when they sold Coke in the small blue bottles.....one of those bottles of "Potato Champane" would be enough to get 3 good sized grown men fall down stupid.... :banana:

You do not need to drop the pan. The NSS is on the passenger side held on by 1) small bolt (for adjustment) and 2) a large nut. Before you take it off loosen the small bolt and rotate the switch, have a helper look at the reverse lights (key must be on) turn the switch till the lights go on and note the position, then turn until they go off. The switch need to be seyt between these to points. Try it? If not take the bolt out and turn the nut out until it is almost off....then use a flat screwdriver as a lever very carfully pry out on the nut and it will pop off. It will be plugged into the harness....unplug it. Examine it and see if you can clean it with somthing like WD40....they are pretty basic and don't usally wear out. Clean it and check it for continuity with a test light or ohm meter. Reinstall

This has been a good go to tool as of late.... :thumbsup: M12 corless saw-zall

Dad had a still made from a stainless steel milk can.....brewed what he called "Potato Champane"....The day after you would want to spell it CHAMPAIN..... Crazy high test stuff.....I never took the time to learn the process and years after he passed we had an auction to sell off some equipment and tools, mother wanted to include the still it the auction but the auctioneer was leary..... I got creative and listed it in the auction manifest and ads as "Home Entertainment Unit".......it sold FAST :thumbsup:

Are half doors legal? in your state......? i will give you credit reddog....between your rear end gear ratio post and your fog light post and this post....you should win an a prize for most answers to a question that nothing was ever done about...... :dunce:

The pins I used were solid with a groove for an e-clip just like the pic I posted....I do not remember the part number but I know they were not the ones spec'd for the XJ....like i said i knew the legth i wanted and the size of the pin shank required and i just went through a few measuring and comparing till i found them. :thumbsup:

Just went through this with a TJ......have a read and watch the video http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/jeep-2-5l-ticking-noise-431754.html http://youtu.be/5A0q8mg1UXM