yxmj

You can dislike whatever you want..........your comment shows your arrogance....your assuming none dislike your opinion.......careful you might be wrong......again...... :thumbsup:

Obviously the high bidder does not care or share in your opinion........I am starting to like him......

A guy in a parking lot ran into my daughters XJ and KO'd the rear fender flair. I was able to get a minty flair off of my buddy but it is painted. Hers are the stock sunbleach black. So now i have 2 choices....paint all 4.....or see if i can strip the paint off one back to the factory plastic. Any comments or advice on stripping or painting would be useful.....(myself i would rather just work on one than all 4) . :MJ 1: .

I think I'll try it my self first, just to see how it goes, if not my friends dad does welding as a job and I'll see if he's willing to help. Look around and find some heavy material......or an old junk yard axle would be great......run some practice beads and weld some junk together.....take a sledgehammer to them after and see how well thy hold. You can do it..... :thumbsup:

Don't let the negitive posts discourage you....it has been done before and it can be done again......google it and watch some you tube....you will get lots of tips.

It is a proven and acceptable way to weld http://mewelding.com/multi-pass-welds/

As Blue XJ says ......if your welder is capable of reversing the polarity and running flux core, it is a hotter weld. But just to clear something up.....when a welder is rated at say 1/8" metal or 1/2" metal that is the thickness that the welder is capable of doing in one pass. There is no law that says you cannot use multiple passes to build up a thick bead.The key to welding is penetration.....if I was to weld a bolt standing on end onto a 6" x 6" 1/4 plate i would pick it up and examine the back of the plate.....they should be an obvious blue/black discoloration (and maybe bubbling would be good) A good example is the test given to get a welding "Ticket" for heavy gauge flat. The student is given 3 pieces of 1/4" steel 2" x 6" one of them has a 45* angle on one of the six inch edges. They are instructed to lay the one with the 45* edge one top of one of the others with a 3/4 inch overlap....tac it.....then lay the other one on the other side and tac it....so now you have a 1/2" space with one side at 45*. They are instructed to run a bead down one side....at one point the instructor taps there shoulder....they must stop welding flip up their mask and look at the instructor until he tells them to proceed. Then they finish the bead.......same for the other side. Now they are allowed as many capping beads as the want......then they grind it smooth.....place it in a band saw and cut it across the weld into 3 pieces 2" wide.....the pieces are then put (weld side down) into a press with a die that has a radius of 2" and pressed into a "U" shape.....the instructor the examines the outside (welded side) of the U.....any crack bigger than 1/16" is a fail. http://mewelding.com/multi-pass-welds/ Just make sure you grind all parts to clean metal before you start.......wire brush (or wire wheel) heavily between each pass.....make sure you are getting good penetration....do not worry how the weld looks, you can dress it with a grinder after. :thumbsup:

I am hoping the green "noodles" wrapped around the roll bar will give a bit of extra bouyancy in those deep crik crossings :thumbsup:

So I should put my "Project Yugo" on hold...... :dunno: ........

If the price is right .....next to free....it could be welded easy......you would't even have to braze it it could be mig'd or tig'd (you could just slap a patch right over top if you wanted....) Please tell me you got that rim in the background....(and it's other 3 sisters) . :MJ 1: .

.......Walk into the parts store......tell them you want front seals........answer 2wd when he asks you 2wd or 4wd......pay for your purchase and walk out......... . :MJ 1: .

Adhesive for ABS or PVC pipe would be a good guess if it was just a crack..... :???:

Thanks but just typing that post made a light go off :brows: Brake and signal same wire......other wire was the other side signal...... :doh:

What am I missing? 1997 TJ PO had removed the third brake light and butchered in a trailer harness that was causing problems. We found the original wires for the brake light and got it working. tail light has 3 wires coming out of it. harness has 4.....by testing we got the back up, brake and turn working. test light on the 4th shows it is park lights. tried connecting it one at a time with the brake and the turn but it just either lights up all the brakes or stops the turn from working.....were should it go? Any help would be appreciated. . :MJ 1: .

Couldn't you just get by with a Realistic 8 track and a set of Bass 48's :banana:

x2 from reading your original post......and fyi.....the D35 is enough for what you looking for ......

Maybe who ever did the fab work on the axle took pride in his work and did a good job..... :dunno:

Maybe it has been swapped out once alraedy :dunno:

Since you mention the price of $2200,,,,,,,,I was looking at this because it is the same MJ as mine (but in rougher shape).......same price 25% the rust and it comes with a '98 XJ Donor......FYI it has been for sale for a couple of months with no buyer......I would offer him $1000 for the pair http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/winnipeg/1987-jeep-comanche-project/583647563?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Would the measurment be different R-L ?

Just a thought but if your trans is still good.....why not just use the bellhousing from the external slave style trans? that would severely shorten your list of parts you need..... :dunno:

The wale shark is nice......all I get from the other pic......is a Jeep wana-be.....you can keep the mini-van mill.......(IMHO)

I have always believed that a vehicle has a "Face" from the muscle cares to the jeeps I like the ones that look tougher.... My first jeep was a YJ....purists would harass me about the square headlights.....My response to that was that with a CJ or a TJ the round head lights always looked like this to me..... OH NO......I will never make it.... While with the square headlights on the YJ...the XJ...and the MJ....it was more like this That all you got....PUNK?

Hey I wasn't swearing in #2.....That is what it is called.... :dunno: Oh I see if I make it one word it allows it :thumbsup:

I will try to answer in order 1) Unless you have an established benchmark for temperature the lazer readings will not help…but that being said take a reading on the side of the block….the water pump…..the rad…write them down and report back. 2) The rad has a petcock drain on the bottom. Put a container under it..... drain the fluid…..fill with clear water….run for 10 minutes…let it cool down….drain it again. Top up with correct anti- freeze mix.(Up here we use minimum 50/50 but from your location you could get away with less) 3) Pull the plug on the electric fan….test that the fan is working by running a hot lead right from the battery. If it works most install a relay under the hood running direct power (fused) from the battery…through the relay. The relay is run back to a cab mounted switch that is hooked into the fuse box accessory out-put