Oizarod115

alright guys, need some help i purchased a Cobra 25LTD... just like the one pictured about but the volume and squelch knobs are combined into one... (to replace the radioshack one i had that was stolen.) and then i found out the coax line i had ran wasnt unplugged when they jacked the radio.. it was CUT! :headpop: grr don't get me started on theives... thats the 3rd time my trucks been attacked. so i get this new radio the guy says, (local hobby shop thats been there for YEAAARS, real good ma'n'pap place) tells me he's got some that've been peaked out, he re-wired them himself to get the best performance from them. ok, i'll bite, so 10$ extra i get a peaked out one. wire it up, new 18' coax line, same 102" whip never unmounted it, wired the radio in with my sub amp, and i had terrible interference like abad ground... so re-wired pos, neg both directly to the battery, and cleaned the terminals, still can't use the cb unless the truck is OFF, no key. as soon as i put the key in and turn it to run (engine off) the noise starts like a door buzzer just nagging and the signal meter reads HALF! drives me nuts, so iturn the gain down and it goes away... yeah, ok but now i'm not picking up anything. gah, my brother's radioshack with 102" whip picks up 10x better. WTF?!?!! help! i've tried grounding the radio itself by the mounting screw to frame with wire, i've done everything i can think of except have it tuned but thats not gonna stop interference. oh, and when you touch the unit the sound diminishes slightly but is still there, and when i pull the mic out as far away from it as i can the noise is nearly gone... WHAT GIVES?

there are some basic sorta guidelines... not a rulebook mind you, but guidelines. 4.0+5spd=3.07 4.0+auto=3.55 2.5+5spd=4.10 and there were some funky ones in there too so don't be suprised if its not right but thats right probly a good 85% of the time and 94.65% of all statistics are made up on the spot ;)

i sure HOPE its not a 4.0 or he's gonna open some eyes the first time it taps 5500rpm or whatever that imbalance is at :brows: he's got it set to run up to 6500 IIRC

i'll finally get to retire my old hat... its been through 2 1/2 harsh years of everyday (and i mean everyday) wear.

is it just me... or does it not tell engine size? i scanned it a couple times and saw the compression ratio, cam, valves, elec everything, full gauges, slicks... ok.... on what? a 2.8? i didn't see it, maybe I'm blind?

i realize he's your pops, and i don't mean to offend anyone, I'm just sayin, he's new himself... and i didnt know if he knew the kind of stuff that goes on here but its not pirate, and he came off a little "hot" welcome to the club dad! :cheers:

either way, i don't like what i see in this thread... comancheclub has NEVER been a place for people to attack each other like was going on, and it rubs me the wrong way that its a new guy doin it. i don't know jack about the shipping to canada, ups, or brokerage fee's... but i do know that mancheclub is a calm, friendly place. and it'll be a sad day when that ends. :cheers:

i usually try http://www.rockauto.com

not only the biggest carshow, but also one that DESPISES america. i think that's the nicest things i've ever heard them say about an american vehicle besides the ford GT and... 1997??? looks more like a 92 or even earlier to me. i spy GM steering column which puts it earlier than 94ish definately

New box, and i have 1/4" plate all the way down the frame rail where the box mounts, there is no slop in that part of the steering, there is just a little bit of play coming from the spacer (remember i still have the 1/2" poly in there, there is quite a bit of squish) it rides great, the steering is just a little slow to respond -Tim

if you can afford the RE kit and decent shocks you will have the best riding 6" kit out there. :cheers:

k, thanks man. jus twanted to get a little more info cause my brother was unhappy about his junk and wasn't to keen on that. stupid steering flexes SO much it looks like the TRE is gonna pop. but it doesn't so thats good.

CW: we put a metal washer in on top of the poly spacer to try and take up some of the slop, the TRE is still tight in the ream but theres an extra spacer and it didn't help with the slop the poly spacer is still just squishin around like jello when you steer back and forth, why does there have to be any slop at all? could you use just metal washers there? and how come the j-truck stuff fixes it?

you'll need the computer and stuff from the 4.0 yeah, the 2.8 will be carburetted iirc, but with a donor it shouldnt be hard

That's a pretty good answer. :brows: He's definetly one smart cookie. If i'm not mistaken he was a heavy hitter over at NAXJA too (maybe still is). he is an honorary member for life on NAXJA IIRC, he's been on there for a LONG time.

my truck is 4.0L (had) a/c, no electric locks/windows and has the 104amp alternator (i know cause i replaced the old one) with wipers, blower on 3, lights, dual electric fans, and cd player/small sub going its low on the gauge but not below 12, probly say 12.5ish (that was this afternoon)

its not that the c-clip is a weak point, but if you break a shaft with a c-clip axle the axle/tire will come out of the shaft and you're not even rolling anymore. with a non-clip axle your shaft is bolted in and when you blow a shaft you can at least roll/drive a short distance to be able to fix the axle... also helps if you're on the track and blow a shaft on the take-off your tire won't roll off and your brakes/stuff nail the tarmac

i think of alternatives, but not trucks. the manche or the F250 diesel are the only trucks i would rock. (well ok, taco's aren't bad either) last thing i thought about was a non-running late 80s volvo wagon that was a perfect candidate for a 302 or a 350... :brows: then add a 5-spd and upgraded suspension/gutted with lexan windows but that sounds like to much of a money pit

well on rockauto the ones offered for replacement on a 89-4.0L manche are 100A, 61A, 85A didn't check any other years/motors though

local auto places do alt. testing so you COULD hypothetically speaking remove it and have it tested i bet that would tell you exactly what its actually putting out. what engine, a/c? options like that can affect alt. size a 4.0 with a/c is a 100amp-ish alternator

well since this thread is about Ebay and selling stuff i figured it's as good a spot as any to leave rockhardzj some feed back bought the insides of a t-case from him, he bagged and labeled all small parts and boxed it all up good as hell. i paid him the 25th and got the box today (30th) if he's got somethin you want BUY IT! great seller.

better than a D35 yeah, but not by that much, it does have a drop-out third which is cool d35 ring gear is 7.5? ish I'm not exactly sure but its small. so its an upgrade, for reference a d44 is 8.5" whats the spline on the shafts?

:yes: haha. i wonder if you wouldnt be better off finding some other leaf springs from another vehicle, i know the grand waggy had leafs similar in size and i bet they have a higher spring rate which would go along nicely with handling for a lowered truck :dunno:

pics for size/beef comparison. not mine, bro found them on the internet and showed em to me... gives a good look at how much stronger the 8.8 is if you cared to know http://www.mike-g.net/jeep/yinyang/pics/ford88/