64 Cheyenne

If the internals are not destroying themselves and you can't see the housing being bent, did you look at/eliminate something else that could be throwing the camber out like bad ball joints?

Still don't even know what engine is in this truck. Read "pressure bottle" but that wasn't even from the OP. Still haven't got a yes or no on if the system was burped. Possible failed new pump? Would sure like to know if it has a good pressure bottle or not. FWIW, a "new" pressure bottle I purchased last winter with new cap failed. The "new" cap would not seal the new bottle, put the old cap on the new bottle, works well today. "new" cap was very cheap china product.

My Chief has a newer column from a? It had a coat hanger type wire sticking out of the dash to remove? the key. I made it hook over something? put new dash bezel in it never thought about again till now.

Think it is a slow transition, don't see too many old dumb asses, just young ones. Makes me believe as people get older they transition from "young and dumb" to "old as the hills and twice as dusty" in a linear state. Meaning with age comes wisdom.

Don't have any pictures but the fuse links are located by the starter solenoid near the battery. My symptom was the motor would start, shut down when the key was released. I was at wits end till I started examining wires closely (everywhere) when I looked at the fused links they looked OK. When I started to gently pull on them most were OK then I found the culprit, it looked like an intact wire but gave way like a rubber band. Replaced the link, problem solved. 2 days of searching, 2 minutes of fixing. oh well, learned something new again.

Are you still losing fluid? Internal or external slave?

Dang! I thought about you were talking about me, till I seen Jim in there. Really, my first post was kind of curt because of the minimal info given. All I still know is that he is talking about an MJ. NO engine info and most important of all, if it is a 4.0 did you burp it? And honestly, the two old D-bags are kind of smart, I usually listen to what they have to say. As the old people say "you learn more with your mouth shut"

:thumbsup:

Master-on fire wall Slave-on transmission Replaced the master? Where did you get it? "Micro sized leak"-no sized leak is acceptable.

:agree:

After taking a close look the information you provided I suggest you buy a new truck cause that one is....

I can't wait to try this! Sounds like a decent way to get it on the HF jack, I'm sure I'll find a use for this method on something, thanks Jim. And the chest press thing, I thought only Indians did this :rotf:

No drill on the old tag. Clear silicone. Take a phillips screwdriver, pop a hole on each side of the old dash VIN tag (with good VIN#), remove VIN without damaging it or the rivets. Drill out VIN rivets on new dash, silicone old VIN (with intact rivets) back into new dash. can't tell it was replaced. Be aware that the special rosett rivets for VIN tags are hard to come by, that is why I don't recommend drilling. If I'm not mistaken,this discussion is about a VIN tag...not moral and legal...Cause if we want to go there then I shouldn't have even replied. Save that for another post in the Pub.

Not sure but I think a CAD axle is stronger, why? Because of the heavy cast CAD housing which also makes for a beefy r/side upper control arm mount. Sure it would need a one piece shaft and a new inner seal, but if your reading this and contemplating axle swaps then I don't think this is undoable. I do have to say that I am contemplating a sleeve kit and boxing the upper mount on my next D30 build though.

Something like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Torin-Bi ... veQ5fTools I posted along these same lines before, general consensus was that those adapters are a PIA, waste of money, not enough footprint for a stable base. I bought this about three years ago http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-cap ... 39178.html mind you it's not perfect as noted in the reviews, but for what I paid for it and as many times as I've used it, to me it was worth every penny I spent on it. Recommend... yes.

Remove the shifter cane. Crib up the tranny/TC with wood, use floor jack to lift assy high enough to take the force off of the cross member. Remove cross member. See-Saw the assy to the ground. You will have 2 stacks of cribbing front and back, remove one in front then one in rear. PIA to be sure, but it can be done. Don't recommend removing or installing TC by itself because the top bolts can be a real b**** in the vehicle.

Disconnect the radio, see if the fuse blows.

I was told by a sales rep at Randy's Ring & Pinion that Koyo is as good as Timken, but a lot less expensive. Whoops! Almost said Cheaper :rotf:

If budget is a big concern then I suggest looking in a reputable? :dunno: JY. The 4.0 is known to run 300k miles, easy. My 87 knocks on start up, occasionally take it to 4k rpm, still hanging in there. Find a motor, see if they will warranty it for any amount of time, if it smokes or knocks after install, get a different one from them or get your money back. In any case, a decent JY won't have a problem with letting you pull the pans to inspect the internals. Lots of goo or carbon - bad, clean decent looking internals probably means regular oil changes and taken care of. I think you should be able to find a decent 4.0 for 3-4 hundred $ just take your time don't buy the first one you find. Do your homework, shop around, pull the pans. Your a smart kid, you'll do fine with a JY motor. Yours knocks on startup too? Mine has a rattle (I assume it's a knock) for 1-3 seconds when it starts, and then it starts to make the noise again when I get up in the 3k+ RPM range. New knock sensor did nothing - maybe the connection? Maybe just the way Renix is? Pretty sure my knock on start up is from a tired rod bearing, when the oil pressure comes up it takes up the clearance and the knock stops. The only reason I keep running it is because 1. it still runs well 2. I have it's replacement on an engine stand ready to go 3. Too many projects, too little time. I think rod bearings can be replaced with the motor in the truck ,if the crank journals aren't damaged from being hammered on, that's another subject in itself, IMO that is just a band-aid buying time for a worn motor. And Brandon, $400 for a complete MJ with decent motor sounds like a gold mine for guys like us, hopefully you won't have to sacrifice a rebuildable truck though.

Neither, well in essence anyway. I would pull them both at the same time so you don't have to deal with the bellhousing bolts X3 while in the vehicles. Not only that but swapping the trannys with either the TCs on or off can be a major PIA under the vehicle, lots of work that can be very much easily done out of the vehicle, faster and easier. Pull engines, trannys and TCs together, swap components, decide which one is the keeper and install the engine, tranny and TCs together. Done. Since available lift wasn't stated, I chose not to comment on the hows of it. Myself, I have a tripod for heavy/high lift when needed.

What do you mean "adaptability"? If your talking converting a 2wd to 4wd, then a 2wd manual transmission has a longer mainshaft and tail housing, that is why it is not practical to convert a 2wd tranny to 4wd.

Fuel pump and tail lights, could be used for spares or barter goods for somebody.

:agree: This is the kind of stuff I like to see, a question asked, then going out and making the tougher fix work. Cool

Best thing I could suggest to do is keep the XJs angle, moved to the correct width. Kind of hard to get an exact correct angle without putting the axle under the truck with a loaded suspension and then measuring.

Did you take it apart, test the bulb and check for current?