brdhntr

since it's not yours, i'll say it's a pretty short and poorly done resume to use so much paper. if it were mine, i would have used some color! :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

i've done it on the trail on a pair of 44's. it works.

hat is sooooooooooooo funny!!!! :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: i hate shopping and always think my wife takes too long as well. plus she works at walmart. :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

the temp at the thermastat housing is at it's warmest, when it's released from the engine to be cooled. the only problem i see is that the thermastat housing does not always have coolant in it above the thermastat. so anything you would do would have to be below that. that's not a possibility on most engines. i think you need to find a different location. as far as temp, i think you'd be okay anywhere from 175 to 200.

try some heat on it. also try to tighten it a bit to get it broke loose than loosen it. if it's really on there, you may need the impact. if you don't have one, take it to a muffler or lube shop and have them loosen it and put it back in at a reasonable torque that you'll be able to get off when you get home. i say a muffler shop or lube shop as they will usually do it cheap and you can get it in right away. take it to a shop and you get the shop rate with a minimum charge and a line of cars in front of you. or you could spend the money on gas and drive it to me and i'd be happy to zip it off for you. :yes: then save for a good compressor and air tools.

why not yellow? what's wrong with yellow? i think it's a timeless color. there's been yellow cars since the 60's and they're still around. i've always wanted a yellow car.

i used to buy cars at local police and government auctions like crazy to turn a quick buck. some were just worth it to part out, others, clean up and sell. i made a fair amount of money doing it. then they changed things around here. they put minimum bids on vehicles and the prices went up. getting a running car for $75 was no longer an option. now a parts vehicle goes for over $500 and just isn't worth it. a neighbor bought a suburban that was an x police k9 unit. he paid $5500 for it, the fleet model, plus all the fees that went along with it. book on it was about $6200, for a non x police rig. he could have picked up a nicer one from a car lot. they're just no fun anymore. :dunno:

sorry to hear. get well soon. as far as meds/pills, you get used to them. 10 years ago i didn't even like to take tylenol. i could live with the pain. now i have to take 19 pills in the morning and 26 at night. it sucks but you get used to it. living on pills is better than not living!

Your just going to have to move to a warmer climate........then you never have this problem again :D :teehee: i heard that!!!!!!! :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

i came out from the sportsman's show i was working for our dog club to find a flat left front tire. :doh: glad i carry a floor jack and a spare in the bed. 10 minutes and i was on my way. now i have to find the hole to plug it. i work the show again tomorrow. guess it'll have to wait until monday. i have to beat the storm by tuesday. otherwise i'll just drive the suburban and wait for the snow to melt in a month or so. :yes:

yes, i can tell when i'm in 4wd. i was more concerned withe something being frozen that is keeping the line open. we've been having some nice temps that get the moisture in the air and then below zero that freezes everything solid. when this happens, it's not uncommon for lines to freeze, even air and vacuum lines. things warmed up the other day and the light went off. 4wd works fine and the light works without a problem now. :clapping:

so i put the mj in 4wd the other day, now the 4wd light stays on. it sure doesn't seem to be locked in 4wd. just a light problem? easy fix? i'm just worried something could be froze up or binding. :dunno:

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

this is all assuming that you have the headliner backing card, if you don't, you need to start by getting one. other wise here you go: :smart: :smart: :smart: :smart: go to a upholstery shop and buy the headliner material or order it online. it's very easy to get. take off all the interior trim that surrounds the headliner. this varies greatly with each vehicle. it's a simple job, but can be time consuming. pull the headliner out of the vehicle carefully so you don't bend or damage it. it will have a little give to allow you to bend it very slightly, but most will break if bent much. lay the headliner on the ground with the material side up. (note the way the material is around the edges). starting in a corner, slowly remove the old material. do not pull too hard as it will remove parts of the headliner backing. they are usually made up of a fiber type material or a type of foam. if you have difficulty in a spot, soak it with warm water and it should release. sometimes you have to soak it and let it sit a while. when the material is off, you need to clean off the backer. the material will usually leave a decent amount of thin foam on the backer. this foam must be removed completely. again, it must be. use a scrub brush (dry) to brush over the backer to remove all the old foam, etc.. there may be some adhesive that doesn't come off (usually tan or brown). that's ok, it won't hurt adhesion as long as it's still firmly attached. go over it a few times to make sure you got it all. clean off the backside of the backer. let the backer dry completely (if you used any water). wipe the material side with rubbing alcohol or similar. let it dry completely (it must be totally dry). take the material and lay it over the backer to see how it's going to fit. remember the material lines(the little lines you see when you look closely at the material) should go from door to door, not front to back. do a very rough cut of the fabric. very rough. leave at least 6 inches all the way around. don't cut for the dome light etc.. remove the material. spray the headliner adhesive on the headliner (i recommend 3m). on smaller headliners, you can spray the entire backer. if it's a large headliner, you'll have to do sections at a time(there is a trick to it). do not use a regular fabric adhesive. get the stuff for headliners as it will hold up longer. let the adhesive dry a little until it is tacky and not runny (it varies by the brand). apply the material while it is tacky. start at the front and roll it to the back keeping the material fairly tight. it's kind of a 1 shot deal. you can't let the material go too loose as it will cause imperfections and sags later on. keep it tight enough that it goes on smooth but does not pull the stuff already layed down (that's why the adhesive must be tacky). on a large headliner you will need to time the adhesive to rolling out the material. spray the adhesive and roll it as you go. do not let the adhesive dry too much as you go. also make sure that the adhesive overlaps as you go. smooth the material out making sure there's no bubbles or imperfections. go over it all twice to make sure it's perfect. when it's perfect, set it in the sun if possible for a couple hours. if not, just put it with the material side up in a dry place. i recommend letting it sit overnight, but it's not necessary. i have done the complete job in less than 4 hours and it's just fine. i just like allowing the adhesive extra time. when it's dried and on the backer solid, it's time to cut. some companies prefer to have the material tuck around the edges to the backside, others just do it to the edge of the backer. either way works but, if you noted how the material was on originally, do it that way. i rarely tuck the material around the backside, only when the edge will be visible. cut the material around the edges. if you don't tuck, just give an 1/8 of an inch or so over the edge. cut out the holes for the dome light, sunvisers, or whatever else. you can leave material in the cut outs sometimes. if it needs to be a snug fit, cut the materials from the center going to the corners. then tuck the corners to the backside kind of like you're wrapping a package. when the cutting is done, put it in place inside the vehicle. again be careful not to bend the backer too much. put the trim pieces on. put the dome light, etc., in place. wipe of any dirt you may have gotten on it lightly with a rag that has a little warm water on it. do not get the headliner wet, just wipe the spot off. if it's going to take more than a light rub, wait a week or two to clean it. if you are using a vinyl material, the process is the same. it's just a little tougher to keep the right pressure on the material. you should now be done and have a beautiful new headliner in your vehicle. as a note, cleaning a cloth headliner should always be done carefully and sparingly (new or old). i do not recommend ever steam cleaning or shampooing a headliner. just wipe it with a cleaner, such as simple green or a upholstery cleaner/shampoo. try not to soak the material, ever. if the material gets soaked dry it as fast as you can with no heat. every time your headliner gets wet, it compromises the bond with the glue and dries out the foam backing on the headliner material. well, there you go. the details on replacing a headliner, the professional way. :thumbsup:

that's a sweet truck, great color!

so what's the website? :dunno:

a waggy i had with a 401 got a wopping 11mpg. then i pulled it and built it. after that i got alot, i mean alot of power. gas mileage dropped to 6mpg. it was fun though. i had a friend that extended a full size cherokee back in the 80's. he added 6 inches in front of the rear seat and another 6 right behind the rear wheel. it turned out pretty cool. he never got paint on it though. a semi hit him as he was pulling out of a mcdonald's. too bad, that was alot of work down the tube. he bought a suburban with the insurance money and held onto his cj. ;)

if the paint is that bad, you'll need to start with rubbing compound. i use 3m. it will take alot of muscle to get deep into the finish. the first coat is the hardest because it dries into the paint so fast. to help this, have a dish of water handy, wet down the applicator frequently. use the rubbing compound at least 2 times. then you can start with a semi abrasive cleaner wax, i use meguiar's. do a couple coats of this. then you move onto the protectant wax. again, i use meguiar's. the best bet is a carnuba wax to get the oils back into the finish. i'd do at least 2 coats. follow up with some more carnuba wax in a couple weeks. after that you can go to something like meguiar's gold class or nxt. you can use any brand you want. i recommend regular waxing every 3 months or so. as far as using buffing pads on an angle grinder, i wouldn't. angle grinders run at a very high rpm, some as high as 33000. when buffing, you want to run 5000 or less. i usually run 2000 or so. you will also wear out an angle grinder pretty quick. they are not intended to hold up to the kind of heat generated when buffing. i'd do it by hand or get a real buffer. if you do get a real buffer, practice on an area that doesn't matter. buffing properly takes practice and is an art. you need to know the best speed, pressure, and method for each job. you can do damage if you don't do it right. you can't mess up the finish as easily by hand. what pads to use depends on what method. on a really bad finish, i start with white wool, then yellow wool, and finish things up with a foam pad. i use 3m pads. to make the job easier, you can do some wet sanding to get rid of the faded paint and bad finish. wet sanding is really pretty easy to learn and takes alot of work out of the process. start with the highest wet sandpaper you can find. if you go to a body supply or even napa, you'll be able to find some finer paper. start fine and go from there as you learn. good luck, feel free to ask me if you have questions as you go. i'm happy to help. :D

if it's still has the headliner itself, just needs new material, it's easy. you can get the material at an upholstry shop, even some fabric stores. it's really cheap. if you want a description of how to replace the fabric on a headliner, let me know. i have done many, many of them and would be happy to post a detailed description. :chillin:

i think it's insulting to say all women are bipolar. bipolar people are not that bad. :D i have been saying for years that all women come with a twinstick transfer case. one happy, one sad. trouble is the transfer case keeps jumping out of gear. :brows:

that's hat they sell for here. i haven't used them myself, but a friend did on his f150. he thought they were great with the exception of off road. he said they tend to blow bulbs pretty easy when you're rugged with them. he just leaves them off in the bad bouncy stuff. otherwise they're fine. :dunno:

to do it by hand, try 3m rubbing compound with elbow grease. go over it several times. i used to do detailing by hand only on rare, specialty, and show cars. it's alot of work

well i'm a professional detail and have been detailing for 25 years now. i've tried almost everything over the years. i prefer meguier's for the most part as well. their paint care system is excellent. i do use 3m foam pad glaze and rubbing compounds. your example of cleaning the engine is right on. no need to pressure wash. a helpfull tip, if you do get wax on trim (etc), try dawn dish soap. that strips wax. if it's on there good or on a textured surface, use wd40. that will usually take it off.

ahhh, jeeps vs wives/gf's...... it's all a matter of who gets to your wallet first. if it's the jeep, you won't be spending much time in the house. ;)

that's funny!! :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: i think there's 4 or 5 in my area on the road that i see now and then. my audi is a pretty rare car though, there's 1 other than mine in the area. at least on the road.