brdhntr

:yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:

2.5

:agree:

the radioactive stuff they run into you is no big deal. they do it so it shows better for them. it's kinda cool, when i had my last stress test in november, i agreed to do a study(at mayo). i do alot of studies there, about 10-15 a year in the hopes it may help others in the future. anyway, this one was for a new chemical to be injected, instead of the nuclear crap. it was amazing! when it went in, it was like turning a light on inside me. you could see everything in great detail, every little inch. wow, it was just cool. if it get's approved by the fda, you guys could start to see it in a year or two. there was no side effects and it gives the docs so much more info. i hope you guys can see it soon. it makes a huge difference. :thumbsup:

:yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: you're probably right with that one!!! :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

you made the right choice. i think it'll be much cheaper than having the old one fixed. 200 bucks is a pretty good deal.

looks like there is a little leak on the lower left side. it's not a big one and will be an easy fix when the weather warms up. the guy i got it from put one of those prestone flush kits in, the ones you hook up to your hose. is there anything different for bleeding the system on one of those? i thought i had it bled out pretty good. i'll do it over though.

the truck runs at a good temp, no underwarming or over. the heat works almost too well (such a small cab) when driving. the problem is, if i stop and let it idle, the air starts to blow cold. i start driving again and it's fine. i don't get any fogging or fluid leak like a bad heater core. i know heater cores can go bad, but i can't understand why it would heat fine when driving. the coolant is full, but i did have to add some coolant (just a little) last week. i just can't figure out what it would be since it works fine when driving. i'm sure i'm just missing something simple. :dunce:

i hate the idea of cutting it up, but that's your best option. i think you'll get the strength you need then. i would suggest carefully cutting it and saving the sheet metal in case you want to turn it back to original someday in the future or even for a repair on another rig. you never know so better safe than sorry. :thumbsup:

i love it!!!! :rotfl2: i'll add one: toolbox, the last place you'll ever find the tool you're looking for. :clapping:

just curious, wouldn't it be easier to just stretch a comanche? adding an extra 10-12", even 14, would be pretty easy. then just weld in the sides for the suicide doors. i think stretching it would keep it very stable, structurally sound, and be more cost effective. if you do want the suicide doors, i'd be careful about it. you need to serious add to the roof and windshield pillar as well as the body along the side where the doors will close. you should probably add strength to the sheet metal going along side the rear window. the reason trucks didn't come in extended cabs, then 3rd doors, then 4 with the suicide style, was because of support issues in the design. it took a long time for companies to figure out how to keep a truck structurally solid and safe when adding these features. issues have to be addressed about support as the frame flexes as well otherwise you won't always be able to open and close the doors. a regular 4 door is not a problem as you still have the pillar between the doors. messing with the suicide doors is a big safety issue, especially if you're going to use it off road as it sounds like you will. just doing it for a show truck doesn't take near as much. i hope you do it, it would be great! just keep safety and structural integrity at the top of your list. :thumbsup: for the name, peyote for sure!

first off, welcome to the forum!!!!! :cheers: well, to start, you need to find out everything you can about any mods that have been made to it. if it does have a 4.0, it's a swap. you'll want to go over things like the electrical to make sure the wiring isn't a hack job that's gona leave you stranded, or on fire, if a wire comes loose. then you want to check out the rest of the drivetrain to see what axels and ratios you have. you need to know the tranny and transfercase as well. once you know everything about it, you can problem shoot things better. you can see how they adapted and hooked everything up. check the mounts and the linkage. as far as the floor, let us know how bad it is (pic's). how well equipped are you as far as tools (welder, etc)? what kind of experience do you have? then we can tell you the best way to do it. just let us know a little more and we'll be happy to help you out. :thumbsup:

:agree: i'm not sure why you'd go to a 318 considering all the work and cost. a 4.0 would be easier and the hp and torque would be pretty close. a 318 of that age is probably about 180hp, maybe 200. a 4.0 ho is about 190hp stock. torque are pretty close as well between the v8 and the i6. there are tons of mods for a 4.0 that can be made. helk, stroke it if you feel you need that much power. but i think the extra weight of all the drivetrain parts that would go with the swap would make the 4.0 a better swap. a gm v6 might be a good option if you have the earlier motor. a 3.4 or 3.8 would be a good bet to go then. the 3.4 and 3.8 in the later models will put out better than the older 318 as well and you don't need to make all the changes for the added weight and size of the 318. if it were me, i'd go with a 4.0ho. but a 318 could be used, it'd just take alot of work. 8)

ain't that the truth!! one of the shotgun shooting forums i'm on gets pretty nasty. they can really let each other have it. it's not much fun when everyone gets going. :wall:

the pic of the rail car with the plow is funny. i always laugh at how small they are but how much snow they can plow through. my grandpa was a railroad man. i have pic's of him shoveling out a steam engine by hand. incredible pic showing the drift about 10' higher than the locomotive. but they still got it shoveled out. i'd post the pic if it would tuen out after scanning, but it's an old photo that has yellowed greatly.

good news!!! :clapping: the chemical stress test is no problem. you feel like you're running a marathon while you're laying still. it's a little uncomfortable because you have no control over your heart rate. the best thing (in my opinion) about it is the relief you get. with a regular stress test, you may feel unsure as your heart rate increases and they want you to keep going. with the chemical test, they control it and it's only there briefly and goes down pretty quick. plus you feel like they are watching you more closely. :thumbsup:

yep, tey're cool. we have a few here that the city uses. they use them to get rid of the piles along the road so you can see cars coming. they usually set the shoot to go into a dump truck. then the dump truck hauls it to a field and dumps it. yes we have fields here that are used to "store" snow taken from the streets and parking lots. they have smaller ones that are used to do city sidewalks and smaller jobs. it is fun to watch them.

1.799 in fargo nd/moorhead mn. on my trip to mayo in rochester mn, it went from 1.799 to 1.699, then back up to 1.899. i filled when i left here, and then anytime i saw 1.699 gas.

as far as seam sealer, it is not at all the same as "blackjack". blackjack is a tar type product used in roofing. it does come in both stuff that won't harden and stuff that will. i recommend you use actual seam sealer for autobody applications. it's pretty cheap and does what you want it to. you can pick it up at napa (they usually have it) or an autobody supply shop. it can come in a tube to go in your caulking gun. there is both flexible and hardening. for a repair like this, either will work. seam sealer is what manufacturers use when assembling a new vehicle. it goes between the fenders and the body to keep a nice seal. it's also used in many other places on new vehicles where metal meets metal and to clean up and seal around welds. there is more of it than you know on new vehicles. it can be painted over or left as is. seam sealer does trap moisture, so remove the rust and treat the metal before you use it. it can be used over paint, but you may have to use some steel wool or scotchbrite pads to scuff it up before applying the seam sealer, but it sticks to almost anything.

from the looks of it, there is probably more rust than you can see. take a scratch awl (or even a small screwdriver) and hit it with a hammer. don't hit it with all your strength, you don't need alot of force to tell you what you need. if the awl goes into the metal, your gonna have to replace that metal or cover it with some more. as you get through the top layer, that's when you find out how much rust is really there and how strong the metal is. you'll want to get deep into it in a few spots to see where you're at. a grinder will help get it done faster. you really need to know what the metal is like so you can determine what you can rivet to and how deep you need to go for the por15 to work. it's a fun job. another option for you is to use aluminum instead of sheet metal for the fix. when the floor is already to go, put a piece of aluminum on top and one on bottom. sandwich the bad metal (that has been properly prepped and treated) between the 2 pieces of aluminum with your rivets. the aluminum won't rust ever again. do everything the same to prep it and treat the old metal and use the seam sealer. to seal it even better, you can use solder at the edges and solder it all the way around the new metal (you'll still use seam sealer). just another option for you. :smart:

i see the red and blue symbol everytime i watch the nbc evening news. i would guess it's not actually an amc one, but it looks like it. anyone else see it? anyone know what it is? just wondering. :huh???:

nah, give me a lamborghini lm2002 for a massive, overly fast 4x4 that looks like nothing else. ugly, yes. slow, not. and they were supposed to be a real off road vehicle, yah right. :nuts: just give me a jeep and i'm happy. who cares if i can't do 100mph off road, i just want to be able to get through anything. a jeep will do that. :chillin:

:agree: no reason to blame the shop that flushed it unless they left it low on coolant or with a babble in the system that caused it to overheat.

yep, wives have a way of keeping your project vehicles in check. i have been admiring a couple of cars hidden under snowbanks. my wife lets me have it everytime i drive by and look at them. now i'm just going to make some offers and let her chew me out when i get them in the driveway. better to ask forgiveness than for permission, right? :D

i started it and took it for a drive. since i just had an angiogram, i'm limited. but the drive felt great! :clapping: