phenryiv1

???????? :huh???: The stock MJ belts are combination lap & shoulder belts. What came in yours? The same- but with them not locking, I wanted something like a lap belt that can be locked at a fixed length.

Either your belts are broken, or you don't understand how they work. The XJ/MJ belts ARE inertia belts. That means they lock either when pulled rapidly, or when the vehicle itself is stopped rapidly enough to exceed a certain G-force. I'm pretty certain the XJ/MJ belts are of the latter type. Mine may well be broken. No matter how hard/fast I pull either one, they don't lock. I thought that there was a ball in the locking mechanism that only engaged the lock when there was a rapid decelleration, thus propelling it forward and engaging the lock. Most "modern" cars have one that locks with a tug or pull. I don't remember what my other older XJ/MJ vehicles had, but the 88 does not lock when the car is at rest and the belt is yanked on.

Duh... :doh: Thanks. That AND the lap belt will make me feel better for short around-town runs. Heck, when I was a kid, I always rode in the front of a CJ-7 and in my father's 280Z (no rear seat), as well as in my grandfather's J-10s. That was all that they had. We did not have any other options, so that is where I rode. Of course, I never had a bike helmet, either...

The law (in WV) states that the child must ride in the back seat if the vehicle has one, and that if the child is in any front seat it must be with an airbag disengaged, if the vehicle has an airbag. For many trucks (particularly of the 80s- early 90s vintage) standard cabs (or extended cabs w/o real rear seating) were the norm, and they did not have airbags. For the law to restrict people from using these vehicles to transport children would create an uproar. That being said, I don't plan to use this as my primary vehicle for moving my daughter, but my wife is an accountant and is working 6-7 days a week, so I have my daughter all weekend most weekends. That means that if I need to take the truck somewhere, I have to take her with me. As mentioned, this would not be out-of-town trips or highway runs (even in the Legacy, I won't make certain left-hand turns with her in the car), just short runs. So is adding the lap belt to supplement the shoulder system an appropriate idea?

I have a 2 year-old daughter who always wants to ride in my MJ, however with the non-locking seat belts, I don't feel safe throwing her seat in there and running around town with her. Are the stock belts inertia-lock models? On "modern" belts, if yuo pull them all of the way out and then allow them to retract, they lock at the retraction point. On the MJ, no such luck. What are you guys doing to safely transport a child in the front of an MJ? Here was my thought- grab a lap belt from a JY and add it to the passenger-side lower mount (the base of the current shoulder belt) and run it from there to the center receiver on the MJ, then supplement that by running the normal MJ shoulder belt over that. This way the seat is locked in place, but in a crach, the shoulder belt will also do its thing and secure the upper portion of the seat. I would use the Subaru for any long (5 miles+) trips, but if I need to go to Lowes to get something that requires a truck, I need to be able to take her with me...plus she BEGS to take the truck, every time we go anywhere.

Updates: Grabbed a spare set of taillights this weekend at the JY, just in case I need them in the future. I also picked up (for cheap) a set of Infinity Reference 5.25" speakers for the doors and a Pioneer DEH-P4900iB for the dash. This will replace my old JVC tape deck, and will give me an excuse to install my new dash fascia and fog light switch, as I HATE pulling the fascia on non-tilt columns. Maybe I will try to fix and install my 3/4 gauge cluster, as well. I also installed 97+ XJ weatherstripping in the driver's side door, but with a twist. Because my driver's door has had a leak at the front upper corner (which led to the floor issue that I had), I have been using add-on weatherstripping to fill an odd gap at the top of the door, up near the window frame. When I did the 97+ XJ weatherstripping, the thickness of the new stuff was enough to push the top of the door out and make the gap re-appear up at the front upper corner- right where I had the original problem. To fix this, I used 97+ XJ REAR weatherstripping and spliced in a short section of my original weatherstripping on the hinge side. This allowed the door to close more tightly at the hinge side and drew in the upper corner so that it was tight against the body once again. I have some pictures of the process, but I have not uploaded them yet. Update: Pictures below.

I thought so. I had seen them there the last few times I was at the yard, and I had even removed the one that was not held on by Torx. I hid it behind the seat until I got back to get the other one. I thought about selling them, but I would rather hang onto them in case I need them after I do my paint job this spring/summer

Grabbed these little puppies at the junkyard: Image Not Found I had pulled one a few weeks ago, but it was held in with philips screws and not the normal Torx fasteners. Then I went back for he other one and was missing the correct Torx from my set (what are the chances?). Yesterday, I finally got them both. I don't need them, but with as hard as they are to find, I wanted to grab them when I saw them. I also scored a TON of door weatherstripping this time: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15129 I love the junk yard.

the rustys airtube has spots for all the hoses Thanks. I had one on/in my 95 but that was a long time ago. I could not remember.

What did you guys do for the vaccuum lines and other air lines?

I had a few holes that I sanded down to metal, but there was still a hole there. To cover the hole, I put the POR 15 on the floor, then as it got tacky, I laid fiberglass mesh into/onto it, the painted more POR15 over the mesh. THis made a very hard covering and gave me material to paint the POR15 onto. If not, I would havestill had a hole. The "starter" kit from POR15 comes with mesh for just this reason. I talked to the POR15 techs and they recommended this method.

I can beat that: My father has a 1975 Datsun 280Z that he has owned since brand new. It just turned 40,000 miles. Last Christmas, I went on a quest to find him new front bumper end caps, so I called my buddy at a Nissan dealership in Texas, who went to the old scanned microfische files that he has. He pulled the part number and ran a national search and found an endcap in Massachussetts. I called that dealership and they pulled the box off of the shelf. It was ordered in 1984 for a customer who never picked it up. The part was last manufactured in 1979-80, and this was the LAST NOS driver's side front bumper endcap in the US. Because they had nothing else to go on, they sold it to me for the price it was back when it was ordered in 1984. :cheers:

I'd like to use the 97+ center console, but I don't care about the dash. I wonder how they integrate with the original dash...

I went with the ones from Advanced and the were simple to install. I will say that they are not terribly bright, but they work better then the old ones- which did not work at all.

I love the paint on your truck. The color looks great and the shine is awesome. Those Moabs look good as well.

Those Canyons look great on the MJ.

I know that you can create at least one playlist an dhave it played in order, but I don't know whether you can store or import multiple folders on the shuffle.

I used a brush, and the coverage was very easy. I also impregnated the POR15 with fiberglass mesh to add strength.

I love the contrast between the white one and the blue one...best of both sides of the XJ spectrum...clean and unobtrusive v. extreme and noticable.

I almost bought a Nano, but I only use it at the gym. I don't need all of the additional features. It would be nice to have multiple folders (one for lifting, one for cardio), but other than that, the shuffle has more than enough space and features.

Shoot me a PM with an email address and can send you a wiring diagram with which you can use your existing factory wiring from the switch to the forward bulkhead connector. All you have to do is add a relay and wite to the lights from it. Thanks!

I normally work out at the gym on site at work (and our director give 3 hours/week paid admin leave to exercise, for health reasons), and a long-time friend of mine works out here with me. He just got transferred to another facility, so i will be on my own. On days where we work out seperately, I had been using an old RCA Lyra MP3 player (265MB) with an additional 512MB card added to it. Well, last weekend I went to add more music to it and my laptop could not recognize it. Then yesterday, the headphones died. :fs1: Looks like time to get a new MP3 player. I was about to order a 1GB shuffle from walmart ($50 with an armband and accessory kit) when I decided to check the Apple site for their refirb offerings. Lo and behold, 1 and 2 GB shuffles were on special, $29 for the 1GB and $39 for the 2GB, with free shipping. :cheers: I went with the 2GB in silver.

I suck at the internet... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showpost ... ostcount=1 Image Not Found

I have a factory fog light switch from an early-90's XJ. I want to use it to control aftermarket fog lights in my 88 MJ. Does anoyone have the wire codes for the 4 wires in the pigtail that comes to/from the switch?

According to Monroe specifications: Stock fronts (37083 from an XJ- but we should be the same) are 13.250" compressed and 21.125" extended. Stock rears (37029) are 14.375" compressed and 23.000" extended.