dasbulliwagen

Refrigerant pressure seen at the pressure switch is required, as is a signal from the selector switch inside to tell the relay to come on assuming all other things are as needed to make the system work.

I have 32's on mine with almost no lift. I trimmed slightly the lower plastic parts of the flares and it helped greatly. Still get to keep the stock flare look. If I didnt tell you I trimmed you probably wouldnt know it. It doeant take much to clear it. But some 2inch pucks in front and some Chevy drop shackles in the rear will get you a little more clearance. Just don't forget a front alignment after doing it.

More hijack... The CAI I used was one from a Mazda 3 that got reverted back to stock. The tube size was perfect and allowed me to use the original rubberboot at the throttle body cap. I trimmed the tube as needed and made a support bracket for it. I there may be a few pics in my buried build thread "Comanche Limited".

Maybe a bad fan clutch? Head gasket? Keep trying and let us know how it turns out.

Have you changed the thermostat? You should do that when you do a water pump anyways. Also flush through the radiator with a garden hose to make sure it has flow. Do you still have the fan shroud on? The stock fan needs a shroud to direct all the air through the radiator too.

Oh BOY! Death Wobble! That is the term given to your problem and there are as many fixes for it is as there are causes. Start with wheel balance, this can set off the problem, and get underneath while someone else gently turn the wheel back and forth to check for movement in your front suspension and steering, including the track bar, tie rod and drag link ends, ball joints, control arm bushings and steering stabilizer. Alignment angles can also contribute to the problem. Make sure toe is correct and that caster angle is where it should be. Steering stabilizers being bad won't cause the issue and sometimes may only be a bandaid if there is a problem. Do a search for "death wobble" and youll find it all. The XJ, MJ, ZJ, TJ, JK, WJ and Dodge pickups with the same style front end all have this problem from time to time. Good luck and let us know what you figure out. don't be afraid to keep asking questions to try to figure your out.

The 2.5 version has a remote resevior and the 4.0 has one built to the pump. The airbox may be an issue. I found that the stock resevior from a Dodge Journey has the right sized fittings for the stock Comanche 2.5 pump return and supply hoses. I made a custom bracket to mount it. I also removed my airbox and install a "cold" air intake at the same time, so plenty of room to mount stuff after that.

Coil spacers in the front and full size Chevy lowering shackles in the rear will get you a full front and rear 2 inch lif without problems. Be sure to do an alignment afterwards including caster adjustment. And I agree with a set of stock jeep wheels if you want to stick to 15's. If you shop right though a set of JK wrangler takeoffs can be had for less than new tires including the cost of adapter spacers. I did this to mine and love it. I have less lift than you and they fit pretty well with minor trimming and negligible rubbing. They are 32 inches stock so real close to to what the 31's would be. Just an idea!

Welcome to the site. There are a few of us 4cyl freaks here so don't be afraid to ask questions. In mine there was a dummy pulley in the place of the power steering pump. I couldn't find a stock pump with a resevior or pulley so a trip to the junkyard to get a complete setup would be best. I had to make a resevior from seething else work and found a new pulley through Mopar restoration parts at the dealer. You'll need a gear too and this is a good time to get a better one than stock. Do some research here about upgrade power steering boxes and you'll be all set. Another great 4cyl reference is www.4bangerjp.com for performance upgrade ideas. Good luck and keep us updated

On some Mazda 3's there was a recall where we needed to flush the power steering system. We drained the rest at the return line. Left the return line loose to drain into a pan. We the connected a large container to the pump supply line and ran 3 gallons of fluid through the system to flush it all the while cycling the wheel back and forth. Not sure if your system will need 3 gallons gone through it but that would definitely clean it out.

It isn't a bias, it's an appreciation for things that look good. You were a catalyst, to be sure. Though I will say that I have had my patience tried on the subject for quite some time. To me, "mods" like this are a freakjeep association. The older generation will get this reference. Freakjeep.... Ha! Poor kid. I wonder what happened to him?

^^^ Yeah, what he said!

Of all the diffs Ive serviced, yours looks completely normal to me, I wouldnt worry about it, especially if its still quiet while driving. Refill it with good fluid and enjoy the drive!

Do you have a long bed or a short bed. I think that is the difference with the rear bar. It will only work on one of the models, can't remember which. Being a Big tonne should not make a difference.

JK is 2007-up Wrangler just FYI to cover all the references.

My experience with clogged converters is that they do NOT produce a backfire. They choke the engine speed and power at higher RPMs and in one of mine made it whistle through tiny gaps around the clamps as pressure before the converter increased so much that the exhaust woud find any way possible to get out. When Ive had backfires it was because of a burned exhaust valve, or you could have a stuck open injector loading the converter with fuel causing it to overheat and eventually meltdown. Just a few thing to think about.

You should remove the transfer case drop as well when you re setting all your driveline angles. The MJ does not need these. They might make the rear driveshaft angles better when applied correctly, but they always make the front angles worse.

Other upgrades would be a WJ or late XJ dual diaphragm brake booster, if you're staying 2wd, wj front brakes would be an easy swap, ZJ v8 or xj up country front sway bar 28mm, custom rear sway bar especially if towing, rear disc brake conversion maybe with a ford 8.8 axle to go with it. Better shocks... I have modified JK shocks on mine. They ride real nice. You can search here too for junkyard upgrades. There are a few really good threads floating about here and at naxja.org on that subject.

I mentioned to make sure about the caster adjustment because it is usually overlooked when doing an alignment because it is not a tire wear issue. Most shops you go to will do a toe and go. And most guys doing a quick lift don't think about it either. This is one that needs mentioning and adjusted. Especially on our trucks.

I never come into this section. I guess I'll have to start. I have to work the weekend of the next meet. The one in Concord would have been cool. I'm in Asheboro so not too far from there or Uwharrie. I'll keep a better eye out here.

I've had to open it on a different browser like chrome in order yo get it to work.

You could be be having an issue with your oxygen sensor as well. It will cause misfire like condition at times with lack of power. My truck had this issue after I bought it. I tried just about everything and a new o2 sensor fixed it. Good luck.

If you have not had an alignment after that much lift your toe setting is going to be way off and your caster angle will have changed. I'm sure your old u joints are feeling the pain as well. They don't like changing angles after being in one spot for a long time either. Change your u joints and DO an alignment. Your steering wheel probably isn't centered anymore and your front tires will start wearing badly. This is a must do.

I agree with the alignment. But with that also check caster angle. If there is too little it will make a wobble more likely to happen. Spec is 6.5-7.5 degrees positive. The adjustment will be at the rear of the lower control arms. Good luck.

On the 2.5 the idle up switch only turns on at high pressure like when the wheel is held at lock. This makes sure the engine won't stall.