dasbulliwagen

http://comancheclub.com/topic/26441-what-non-mj-parts-are-installed-on-your-rig/ This page has a lot of the info you are looking for. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66012&highlight=junk+yard+upgrades And here's one from naxja.org

Similar thing happened to my wife. It was a three lane road, one each way and a turn lane. This guy swings left into the turn lane as my wife is behind him, then swings right to make a right turn into his driveway thus forcing my wife to clip him. And who gets a ticket??? My wife. People are stupid!

Welcome from another NC MJ. I agree, stay away from the 2.8. It actually had less power than the 2.5 4 cyl. Be patient. Youll find what youre looking for.

I saw this thread last night and thought the same thing. Also, this newbie (badguru) has no idea who hes talking to.

Night vision isnt horrible, but not great either. I never properly adjusted them after installing the Waggy header and at least one of them is pointed off somewhere wonky. I'm planning on new sealed beam bulbs in the near future and properly adjusting it all at that time.

I have yet to pay for the wheels, but they are asking me to do it soon, so I guess Ill get them. For that price I can re sell them for a profit if needed. I finished my WJ brake booster and master conversion. The initial braking feels better than before, but it won't lock the tires. I need to go through the special bleeding procedure for the rear load sensing valve and re check. I decided to cut the original brake booster end off with the brake switch and weld it on to the WJ so I wouldnt have to drill and fab the switch onto the WJ rod. This gave me the opportunity too to make the length correct as the WJ rod is slightly longer than the original. Got it all together and had no brake lights. I thought maybe I melted the switch parts but I didnt. After removal I found one of the switch terminals had corroded and got hot in the past and after reconnecting this time it would no longer make good electrical contact. So I got a new switch, and all is good with the brake lights. Santa was pretty good to me. I got 5.5" springs, and rear weld on spring perches. I then bought some Bilstein 5100's to go with all this and the RRO control arm drop brackets that I got in November. Lift will be happening soon. I'm wondering about doing this as part of the Steering and suspension class I'm teaching at the local community college at night. I worry about that though due to the amount of time consuming fab required. Its hard to tell an inexperienced kid about modifying parts to make them work on something they were never designed to work with when they are just trying to learn the basics.

They both have Fram oil filters. Not sure of filter failure, but they have a bad reputation on the Jeep 2.5 and 4.0 engines. As for a prize for the winner? Oh, uh, there won't be any money, but when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness. So, you got that going for ya, which is nice.

don't forget about the Miata. They are good little cars, and easy to fix with solid mechanicals. I understand about the range in milage, they are so fun to drive that you want to push them all the time, thus ruining your milage. Conv tops are fairly easy to change if you have a bit of mechanical skill. And there isnt much in them to go wrong and theres tons of aftermarket support. I might be a little biased. Until my Dodge dealership lost its Mazda franchise early last year I was their only Mazda Master tech. Luckily I'm a CDJR Master tech too.

I'm preparing to rebuild and upgrade the 2.5 in my truck and have been picking up spare parts and blocks recently. Got one longblock for free from a TJ, and bought another one from a TJ fully dressed. The first one definitely has lost at least one rod bearing, the fully dressed one is in unknown condition and may or may not be OK. The thing is they both have one thing in common... the oil filter. Anyone want to guess what brand?

The Wagoneers from what Ive read will be on a Ram 1500 platform and built in a plant that's already set up for Rams. This would be awesome, have a competitor to the GM full size Tahoe and Suburban.

My dad just had his done. They had him walking with a walker in the hospital before he was discharged after surgery. He used a walker at the house for a week, and then a cane. This was all done in October. Hes getting around good but still has a little trouble sleeping because it gets uncomfortable after sitting in one spot for a while. He has to keep moving to keep from hurting too much, though with time it is getting better. He said the worst part was the bruising on his thigh from the giant tourniquet they used during surgery. From what Ive seen, its usually 6 mos before youre back to what might be considered normal. I did hear on the radio the other day of a new procedure for this. They take in depth scans and make the new knee custom to your body. Its supposed to cut down on recovery time drastically. Maybe it will be more common when my time comes. I'm 43 and have had 3 knee surgeries since the age of 14, not including several other sprains in between. Good luck with your recovery.

I ordered the 5100's. Went through Amazon. They delivered a pair right on time, but one of the shock boxes was open, tore up and had no hardware. So I contacted Amazon, they said they couldn't just send me the hardware, so sent me another shock. Got the new one.... same problem. Box tore up, no hardware. Contacted again. They said they got ahold of the shipping place to make sure it didn't happen again. It will be waiting for me when I get home tonight so we will see what happens. Still have to send two of them back also. AT least they are paying for it. I guess it might help too that I'm a Prime member.

i swapped AC into my 87 2.5, but I know thw wiring between the 4.0 and 2.5 is much different. The 87 2.5 harness has more similarities to the 86 and earlier jeeps than the newer ones where everything was changed to get the 4.0 to work. My 2.5 had a connector in the engine compartment for dealer added AC which I used combined with factory diagrams in order to make it all work. I don't think the 4.0's had that unless it was all in the harness already and not used. The dash harness had everything there already except for the controls. I also used the HVAC box harness that came with the AC box (Donor was an 86). It all plugged right into dash harness and it all worked on that end.

Getting ready to do a 6" lift, was wondering what the best front shocks woud be. Ive read through most of the shock threads on here and everyone loves OME's, but it doesnt look like they go that tall, and they are pricey. People say the Bilsteins are stiff, and then theres Rustys... Anyways, what have you used and had good experiences with? Thanks

I don't have the wheels yet, but they are set aside for me at my delaership. Ill be paying for them after Christmas. Ill be teaching a steering and suspension night class at the local community college for the spring semester so the lift on my truck will be a class project. Ill have the wheels on it at that point. I taught brakes last semester and got most of the WJ booster and master swap done. I just need to finish a few things up on that as we ran out of time to finish it. Ill update as I can. Thanks for the input guys!

here's how it is now. Will get 6" lift in spring. Thought the wheels might top it off.

I already have JK wheels and spidertrax adapters on my 87. These will bolt right up and be out 1 1/2" on each side from what I have already.

I have the chance to get these like new wheels and tires at a killer price. They might have a thousand miles on them tops. I can get them for $400 for the set of four. They are stock JK size 255/75R17 (32"). Same size I have on the truck now. The wheels are at 4 1/4" backspacing compared to stock JK at 5 3/4" giving me an extra 1 1/2" width on each side which might be good. I know Firestones arent anybody's favorite tire but for the price it might not matter. Anyways here's a pic.

Here are those wheels I mentioned. What do you guys think?

Found a set of Firestone MT's in 255/75R17 on custom gloss black wheels all in like new condition pulled off a JK for $400. Havent paid for them yet but I'm leaning that way to go with the lift next year. I'm not thrilled with the tire brand or the wheels, but they arent bad. Ill post a pic as soon as i get to host the pic I took. I want to check the backspacing tommorow too compared to my stock JK takeoffs.

Already bought or know Xmas gifts: RRO control arm drop brackets. 5.5" front springs, rear anti wrap rear spring perches, WJ booster and master conversion, a set of 255/75R17 Firestone MT's on black custom wheels (like new aftermarket JK takeoffs at a killer price). Will need during lift in the spring: Still shopping for shocks. Longer brake lines were already done, and already has an adjustable track bar (hope it adjusts enough). Also want to look at a helper spring for the rear leaves to help heavier loads.

It still looks just like this. Hopefully will have some changes in the spring!

Another thing you can do if you can't get the rod or the bracket is gone from the diff is use a piece of wire or a zip tie to hang the swinging arm in the 2-3 oclock position from above. This will give you some use of your rear brakes back without going through the trouble of finding the parts you need to fix it properly.

Did I read on here somewhere that someone used a 4.0 timing gear in their 2.5? I'm trying to verify it but have been unable to find anything. The 4.0 timing sets seem to be cheaper than ones listed for the 2.5. There seems to be a lot of that around. Maybe because nobody is stupid enough to build a 2.5 Like me? Thanks for the help. I tried search but came up empty.

These JK takeoffs are 17" just FYI. They rub a little while turning but not enough to bother me. The rears also rub when loaded down with 2000 lbs worth of scrap metal, but that doesnt happen that often. I hope to do the full lift in the spring. I put some 5.5" springs and some weld on rear perches on my list for santa, so hopefully he will come through. I already have a ProComp adjustable track bar on it and I'm hoping it is big enough to go with 6" of lift. I have it screwed all the way in right now as it is with little to no lift. If i need to get a longer one, Ill deal with it when the time comes.