MiNi Beast

I made it the furthest with two bald tires and only 2wd. So I was happy, but was thinking of the clean up.

This me Roger Maynard and my truck MiNi Beast. Damn I'm Sexy!

Hook a cargo light up in the cab like a third brake light, Then mount work lights on the underside of truck bed/bumper to light up the back. On a toggle switch and work good for backing up. :brows:

:agree:

Yeah issue went away but can't say to what I fixed exactly cause I fixed several things so to say one thing or another I can't. But this linked helped me some.... http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm http://members.cox.net/wilsond/Fixes/di ... CPSdetails Found these in the the site when was up all night looking for answers. But If I was to say anything I would say the CPS it's such a touchy thing. So start there for sure, then when you checked it do it again, lol.

Wanna be a STROKER!!

No running good was rough but that was when I was playing with the distributor and she runs good now added some injector cleaner to it as well as anti-frezze. So she good. Bought damn time too. Ticking me off. But yeah so getting another Jeep on the 24th so can park her then to do engine rebuild and Ax-15 put back in.

I got a 5.5'' SOA with an 8.8 and 4.5'' front and standred driveshaft and flex out the rear an the trail and pulled it out and broke the yoke. So don't recommand getting to crazy on the trail with out new drive shaft or longer one. My local drive shaft shop told me they can extend the shaft about 2'' and balance it for about $150. So that being the econimcal route being more a daily driver but I'll be crazy with her so going to get SYE and new CV shafts.

Well after being up all night searching for answers and thinking maybe the computer, I checked the ballister thingy and jumped the wires then adjusted the distributor and the cps with the new bolts from Wild man and she started to fire up but rough, so tweak distributor until she purred and also kicked the tires twice around to start her in motion. Took her down the road and well lets say she's no longer for sale. So thinking over all it was the CPS, but once it was changed it had troubles with that damn resistor so going to pick that up tomorrow at the parts store. Thanks for all the help and advice guys. :cheers: :cheers: :bowdown: :D :thumbsup:

Going to pull engine end of month for rebuild and to put Ax-15 back in. Putting SYE on and new driveshaft and finish lifting the front. Set of 33x9.50 going on for now. Got decent set for free from an old lady. :brows: Get pics of process.

How can I check my relay's? Looking and found there to be an ignition relay. So just wondering here with no idea where to go from here. I even tryed kicking the tire but that didn't work. So what? Anybody?

Pull the ignition switch and I think that will work. :dunno: :dunno:

All right damnit new CPS installed, new ignition switch and not $#!&. :headpop: Getting Pissed. What about relays? Anything maybe should check?

Good to hear it all worked out. Sorry you had to go through all that but what a learning experience. Well if I have any drive line questions I'll be sure to ask you. Yes, I know that's the first thing you do when troubleshooting; go back to when the problem first started. But I did have these same vibes before the gear install, although very faint. The gear install made the vibes worse, but did not change their freq or the 35-45 MPH range where they showed up. And they are very quiet during accel, coast, and when braking. Course I know that sometimes doesn't mean squat either. :mad: Draggin' this up again to report the vibes are finally GONE!!! In the very first post when I started this thread, I said the vibes started when we regeared, but like a dumbass I had to try EVERYTHING before I went back in the diff like I should have done originally - you were right roger21maynard. Most everyone said the diff couldn't/shouldn't cause low speed driveline vibes like I had, but it dayem sure did. The problem was pinion backlash - there was none. On the original install we could not get the crush sleeve to crush, so we re-used the original and tightened the crap out of the pinion. This week we looked at the pattern, and although there was very little metal in the diff, you could see where the pinion and ring gears had tiny dents in it caused by chattering 'cause it was too close to the ring gear, which caused the vibes. At first I only had vibes under acceleration, then it progressed to deceleration, then to coast during the 35-55 MPH speed range. And the strange thing is that the diff was very quiet during the whole time - made NO noise. This was a strange one and I thought I'd pass it on. Expensive hard-learned lesson :mad: But anyhow, I learned a lot about driveline angles, slip yokes, u-joints, drive shafts, alignment, and DIFFERENTIALS. Everything's right now, and I'm happy. :cheers:

thanks

The Word!

Fly wheel is good , the problem was the bolts that were in it was not the right ones. One had not on back side which was the one I lost. Vibe problems due to old mount. The other bolt was a grade 8 bolt screwed in tight but not all the way but held it in place. That was the problem was getting to it and then finding the right bolts to fit it. So I guess to answer the question it was ground down due to one bolts holding it in but allowing it to flop down against the fly wheel. So was going to use zip ties. :brows:

Check the CPS took it off and sure enough she was ground down to nothing. so figuring this was the problem changed her with the only extra one i HAD my old one I had replaced, but still didn't start. So junk too I guess so when get new one I shall try it then I guess. So this sounding right so far to everyone being this problem of not wanting to start being the CPS? I hope so ready to burn this damn truck.

btt

ok well thought that myself, so I had taken it out again hecking myself and put #1 to TDC and then put oil pump to the 11 o'clock position then put rotor to 4 o'clock postion to slide it in the block to line the rotor up in the 5 o'clock position (#1) and then check wires and tighted the pig ear down, but the same. So goint to pull cps and check that, as well as check the injectors to see that they are pulsing. (?) Brother down in FL giving some advice over phone. Kinda hard. And I have recorded me trying to start it so if any one is good at telling a problem by sound I CAN E-MAIL it to you.

tried the starting fluid and she just back fired once then mantain the rataion but but not start. Pulled plugs and warm and burned of gas and dryed the clyinders then put plugs back with little oil in clyinders and still nothing but the rotation. Dosent make a sound that it wants to start. tIME TO BURN IT I GUESS@!!!!!!!!! :mad:

gonna try starting fluid. :mad:

k got spark in all clyinders and still nothing to signal starting. got gas on plugs so shold start yeah?

I'm running 31.10.5 Texrus M/T, I love em. Great in the snow and icey roads for m/t. Put them on when still had d35 in the rear and was out playing in the snow and got down to some dirt and took ten teeth off my ring so got to upgrade to 8.8. But they rode great on the street. Wear is normal for a radial tire. BUt if your out of alignment she'll eat rubber bad. Other than that noise was minimum and side lugs are great for off road. I ran these tires with only two drive due to the axle upgrade, but still had good time wheeling. I will be upgrading to 35's here shortly and will be running the texrus m/t again.

ok so pulled #1 plug and no spark. I had reseated the dis. so should I try new plug first then check the sitting on the dis?