MiNi Beast

so 94 Dakota rear brake lines for my 6.5 inch lift on the front?

What year dodge 1500 was it to be able to use the brake lines?

Good ol' boy :driving:

Stay by Muskegon but know trails from here to Reed City, then they keep going but haven't made itr up farther than that yet.

Talking vac lines to disconnect? You need to give a little more info to get some help. :wall:

:cheers: THAT'S WHY I CARRY A DAMN AXLE STRAP FOR PEOPLE LIKE THAT!

Ever make it to the west side I can take you to some holes. :cheers:

First check the wire on top of enginge drivers side back by 6 clyinder thats the sending unit for temp gauge make sure thats good. It's little wire thats pink i think. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

http://www.truckstuffusa.com/rollbarsbygorhino.html http://www.ustruckaccessorieswhse.com/t ... _bars.html

I made it the furthest with two bald tires and only 2wd. So I was happy, but was thinking of the clean up.

This me Roger Maynard and my truck MiNi Beast. Damn I'm Sexy!

Hook a cargo light up in the cab like a third brake light, Then mount work lights on the underside of truck bed/bumper to light up the back. On a toggle switch and work good for backing up. :brows:

:agree:

Yeah issue went away but can't say to what I fixed exactly cause I fixed several things so to say one thing or another I can't. But this linked helped me some.... http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm http://members.cox.net/wilsond/Fixes/di ... CPSdetails Found these in the the site when was up all night looking for answers. But If I was to say anything I would say the CPS it's such a touchy thing. So start there for sure, then when you checked it do it again, lol.

Wanna be a STROKER!!

No running good was rough but that was when I was playing with the distributor and she runs good now added some injector cleaner to it as well as anti-frezze. So she good. Bought damn time too. Ticking me off. But yeah so getting another Jeep on the 24th so can park her then to do engine rebuild and Ax-15 put back in.

I got a 5.5'' SOA with an 8.8 and 4.5'' front and standred driveshaft and flex out the rear an the trail and pulled it out and broke the yoke. So don't recommand getting to crazy on the trail with out new drive shaft or longer one. My local drive shaft shop told me they can extend the shaft about 2'' and balance it for about $150. So that being the econimcal route being more a daily driver but I'll be crazy with her so going to get SYE and new CV shafts.

Well after being up all night searching for answers and thinking maybe the computer, I checked the ballister thingy and jumped the wires then adjusted the distributor and the cps with the new bolts from Wild man and she started to fire up but rough, so tweak distributor until she purred and also kicked the tires twice around to start her in motion. Took her down the road and well lets say she's no longer for sale. So thinking over all it was the CPS, but once it was changed it had troubles with that damn resistor so going to pick that up tomorrow at the parts store. Thanks for all the help and advice guys. :cheers: :cheers: :bowdown: :D :thumbsup:

Going to pull engine end of month for rebuild and to put Ax-15 back in. Putting SYE on and new driveshaft and finish lifting the front. Set of 33x9.50 going on for now. Got decent set for free from an old lady. :brows: Get pics of process.

How can I check my relay's? Looking and found there to be an ignition relay. So just wondering here with no idea where to go from here. I even tryed kicking the tire but that didn't work. So what? Anybody?

Pull the ignition switch and I think that will work. :dunno: :dunno:

All right damnit new CPS installed, new ignition switch and not $#!&. :headpop: Getting Pissed. What about relays? Anything maybe should check?

Good to hear it all worked out. Sorry you had to go through all that but what a learning experience. Well if I have any drive line questions I'll be sure to ask you. Yes, I know that's the first thing you do when troubleshooting; go back to when the problem first started. But I did have these same vibes before the gear install, although very faint. The gear install made the vibes worse, but did not change their freq or the 35-45 MPH range where they showed up. And they are very quiet during accel, coast, and when braking. Course I know that sometimes doesn't mean squat either. :mad: Draggin' this up again to report the vibes are finally GONE!!! In the very first post when I started this thread, I said the vibes started when we regeared, but like a dumbass I had to try EVERYTHING before I went back in the diff like I should have done originally - you were right roger21maynard. Most everyone said the diff couldn't/shouldn't cause low speed driveline vibes like I had, but it dayem sure did. The problem was pinion backlash - there was none. On the original install we could not get the crush sleeve to crush, so we re-used the original and tightened the crap out of the pinion. This week we looked at the pattern, and although there was very little metal in the diff, you could see where the pinion and ring gears had tiny dents in it caused by chattering 'cause it was too close to the ring gear, which caused the vibes. At first I only had vibes under acceleration, then it progressed to deceleration, then to coast during the 35-55 MPH speed range. And the strange thing is that the diff was very quiet during the whole time - made NO noise. This was a strange one and I thought I'd pass it on. Expensive hard-learned lesson :mad: But anyhow, I learned a lot about driveline angles, slip yokes, u-joints, drive shafts, alignment, and DIFFERENTIALS. Everything's right now, and I'm happy. :cheers:

thanks

The Word!